Sunshine Yellow for Summer

I’ve got a good start on CC0456 (at some point this pattern has been renumbered 5052 and that’s how it is listed at PR).  And feel like perfecting it. I mean I’m so tired of multiple muslins and fitting tweaks that end up filling my garbage can with fabric. I want to make garments that look good on me. Continuing with CC0456 feels like a no-brainer to me.

I made a few more pattern adjustments.

• Add 1/2″ to side seams (rather have too much ease than not enough)
• Added 2″ to lower back which is eased to upper back.
• Add 3.5″ length.
• Created front V neck
• straightened center front a little. Now, this could be my fault.  I use my rotary cutter pretty freely and know that it can go astray.  But I wonder if Connie really did curve the front to create a deep lapel. I closed up the lapel because I wanted a blouse and not a 3rd layer.
• 2″ FTA

My fabric is a Japanese Cotton purchased several years ago from Fabricmartfabrics.com.  Actually, this is a large remnant left over when I was making a moulage as per Suzy Furer’s instructions. Alas the moulage failed, IMO, because when I added ease all my fitting problems were still to be solved. (I was under the impression that drafting from measurements eliminated most of the personal fitting issues. In truth very few or my issues were solved through this method.) But I digress, I felt this largish remnant would be an excellent 2nd Try of CC0456. If all my changes worked, I’d have a garment in a beautiful fabric. If my changes were a mess, well it was only a remnant.

I devoted most of my time to making pattern alterations with the most significant the Full Tummy Alteration. I used the instructions provided by Fit For Art CommonFittingAdjustments. Scroll down to the “Front Bands Do Not Overlap” section. All the tummy alterations I’ve seen are nothing at all like FFA describes. However, what they show is very close to what was happening on my first CC0456

I stitched everything together except side seams which I basted at 1/2″. I even stitched button holes and attached the buttons before the first fitting.  No pics on Fit01. I peeked in the mirror and said ” My gosh that looks big”.  It’s an interesting difference between the cotton/poly of Version 1 and this Japanese cotton in Version 2.  I stitched the side seams at 3/4″ (I had altered the pattern for 1/2″ side seams).  Peeked in the mirror again and then stitched the back right princess seam 1/8″ deeper from armscye to dart.

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Fit02 or is it 3 or do I still count this as Fit 01 because it is the first set of pictures and all changes were made after a cursory look in the mirror rather than careful study of pics at the computer?  I’m going with Fit01 which told me I still need to remove a little more ease from the side seams and that my left back needs the a similar deepening of the princess seam. Otherwise, this is sun-shiny cute and ready to finish.

Which I did.

I’m totally happy with the back. I was still concerned about a drag line or two on the skirt back of Ver 1 and so  I offset the back from the fold which I then eased to the empire. That  really wasn’t necessary. I’ll probably eliminate it in the future but it is an option. I trimmed the princess pieces so I can repeat the alteration in the future without having to try to garment on first. Besides, when that curved seam is trimmed to 1/4″ it is so much easier to sew it smoothly.

I think this is the best the right side has ever looked. I have not tweaked the shoulder seams only the princess seams.  I tweaked them much less than what I would have done to the shoulder. (I make a 3/4-1″ shoulder slope adjustment. The princess seams have been adjusted by about 1/2″ total).

Love the new length. The additional 3.25″ gave me enough length for my 1.25″ hem. I like this hem depth because it helps weight the garment; helps it hang instead of piling up on my hip and tummy.

Don’t think that the Full Tummy Alteration helped any in fact I now seem to have too much skirt ease in the front. It may be that the front skirt  is drafted to pull apart there at the hem. Then again I adjusted the center front line and that could be the entire issue. Regardless, I like this sun Shiny yellow as well as the pink/white dots of yesterday.

One last comment the shoulder. I extended the shoulder 1″ and using my french curve as Peggy describes, connected to the armscye. The curve is beautiful. The armscye/shoulder looks really good. But I’m going to extend it another 1/2″.  It’s my shoulder-hip balance hangup. I think I look slimmer and better proportions if my shoulders balance with my hip. It’s one of the biggest reasons I’ve had for including shoulder pads whenever possible (not possible in sleeveless garments.)