TRT Button Front Blouse with Fitting Tweaks.

My new TRT Blouse with Button Front, was in the laundry before I saw the final pics and decided a few tweaks were in order. After the laundry it needed a press.  Woven fabrics often do but with our personal laundry habits they definitely do.

While at the ironing board I applied a few 2″ strips of Steam-A-Steam Light to the back facing. Smoothed it carefully into place and then pressed to fuse facing to blouse-back.  I didn’t exactly nail the facing in place, but I did top stitch along the facing edge about 2″ away from the armscye on either side. That way, the facing can still float a little but shouldn’t ride up, crumple or otherwise make a mess.

I ripped out the previous sleeve hem and then hemmed at 1.75″ (my preferred standard is 1.25″)

That makes a nice hem.  Maybe I should make my hem 1.75″ permanently?

Then I took pics again

I think the sleeve may still be a little long on me.  I get concerned about dragging my cuffs through the soup and salad.  But I love the way the back hangs now especially when compared to the untweaked (2nd pic below right is the untweaked)

 

Current   ————- Tweaked

It is level and smooth.  There are  fold lines because this has a lot of wearing ease.  I think it is supposed to.  Helps the blouse flow and drape and skim the curves. Rayon Challis is so beautiful because of this characteristic.

The final back view is pretty nice.  Umm the front blurred so kinda of hard to tell…

Mostly I’m looking at sleeve length and shoulder width. Te  blurring doesn’t hurt my evaluation. May even  help since I’m not side-tracked by non-pertinent details.  I think the shoulder may still be too wide — correction of which could fix the sleeve length.  I admit there may still be some extra ease but gee I like the way it skims the figure.  Even with those horizontal stripes I don’t think “Big tummy, bigger butt.”

I’m giving it the wear test.  Need to be sure the sleeve hem doesn’t drag through the soup. Otherwise, I think it is ready for duty!

Tabula Rasa Button-Front Blouse

Still not 100% satisfied with even this blouse but let me share what I’ve done.

First because of the back issues, I removed the front and back pattern-tucks above the bust. The tucks were intended to lift the bust dart into place. Instead of the easy-but-wrong tuck, I boxed the dart, trimmed from the tissue and moved the dart up.  Intending to keep the side-armscye seam even,  I had altered the sleeve cap at the same time as making the bodice tucks. Now I released that tuck too.

For the button front, well I added a strip of tissue to the side of the previous button-front version (the smaller size) and cut it to be the same as the shell version. Easy, quick and probably right.

Last change, was to narrow the shoulder.  The shoulder was just too wide. I trimmed 1/2″ at the shoulder side seam tapering to 0 at the notches. Did not change the sleeve edge.

Then I chose my fabric.  A new resident of my stash (about a year), it is a light-weight rayon challis.  When it arrived, I noted how much lighter it was than previous rayon challis I’ve worked with but took my thoughts no further.  Now looking at it carefully, I clearly saw the stripe formation.  Almost put it back, then decided to bite the bullet and make a full-back piece i.e. left and right back joined instead of just a half back placed on fold or cut double. Made it much easier for laying out pattern pieces when matching stripes/patterns.  But, I really should have thought about the light weight. This fabric wanted to shift and crawl about.  By the time I realized how bad it was shifting, I’d cut the back and one of the fronts.  I opted to not match the sides or sleeves and positioned them cross-grain for cutting.  Well it’s a lesson to remember because I have a sister fabric that could benefit from the same corrective effort I should have made:  starching. I did spray starch, but that wasn’t enough. When its time comes, the sister fabric will be dunked in starch and dried overnight.

When I stitched the sleeve/side-panel in place, I carefully matched all notches. I was a bit relieved to find that once all the tucks were removed, the notches matched and the excess length noticed on the shell version was only present on right side. The right side is my lower shoulder.  Instead of cutting 2 different front and backs, I stitch the right side shoulder 1/4″ deeper than the left. Generally it works without a hitch. In this case, there is more length along the right, side-seam which obviously needs to be eased.

Front and back facings, which I cut large, were from a contrasting white cotton fabric, also light weight.  This allowed me to avoid pattern/stripe matching along the lapel which for unknown reasons I just couldn’t handle doing.  Good choice BTW because it also adds interest.  One error with my big facings, I should have tacked the back facing in place.

It didn’t want to lay flat and causes other back issues (the rising at CB for instance.)

The sleeve is a little longer than I prefer.  Generally, when the shoulder is the right length for my body, sleeves are perfect.  In this case, I went up a size to accommodate my across-the-back girth and my bicep.  The sleeve is a little longer for the new size.  When I look carefully, I think I could shorten the shoulder another 1/4″ but not much more.  That wouldn’t be enough to bring the sleeve up where I want.  But I”m waiting to make that change because..

For some idiotic reason, I grabbed a washable marker instead of a Frixion pen or disappearing marker to mark notches and darts. Normally  I probably would have worn this right away, and check my suspicious through wear-testing. But due to the visible marker, I’ve tossed it into the washer.   It will be a few days before I can really say “Done, Done All-Done!”

 

PS no back picture because that was too blurred to see.

 

 

 

Refitting My Tabula Rasa Blouse

I was so pleased when I finished refitting the Tabula Rasa Jacket. The jacket pattern  required few alterations to fit like I wanted. Well just a few alterations, plus a half-inch shoulder pad.  The Tabula Rasa Blouse is created by making changes to the jacket. I start by making a copy of the jacket front, back and sleeve. It already has the round-back and shoulder slope alterations I need.

  • First change is actually some downsizing.  I will not be wearing half-inch jacket pads in my blouses.  (I will substitute a 1/4 or 3/8″ blouse pad.)
  • The shoulders will need to narrowed about an inch.  This is so easy to do with the TRB.  Essentially I will stitch the sleeve where I want the new shoulder. This will be done during fitting.
  • The bust dart will need to be raised. Oh it’s in the right place for the jacket, but without the pad it will drop about 1/2″ too low.  Easy change is to remove the excess length above the dart through a tuck across both front and back pieces.
  • Then the sleeve cap will be too long so a corresponding tuck will need to be made across the sleeve.
  • There is a possibility, I will want to remove a little wearing ease.  The jacket is meant to be worn over blouses.  The blouse needs to be a little smaller than the jacket for that to happen easily.  This is another change I plan to make during fitting.

My fabric is an incredible crinkle print purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics a few years back.

 

I’ve held onto this fabric because I wanted to be sure it was beautifully show cased. I think the TRB is the perfect pattern.   The fabric is a crinkle with a knit backing.  Because of the backing I could never decide if this was a summer or winter fabric.  I was afraid it was too warm for summer but not heavy enough for winter.

Now I folded it carefully and started placing the pattern pieces on top.  I paused to consider a neckline.  I’d copied the jacket design lines faithfully.  That means the neckline is a long gradual V. Very flattering in a jacket and has the advantage of being easily modified by using various bands and facings.  For a blouse, I want the neckline considerably higher.  For chemo, I want a neckline that opens in front giving access to my port.   I make a quick decision.  measure down 6″ from the top of the shoulder and then sketch  a rounded neckline on my fabric.

For chemo, I can add a placket easily during sewing.  I should modify the pattern.  That 6″ is one of my favorites. It is also a guide point.  If I want a lower neckline,  cut below the 6″.    I tend to do necklines on the fly. Having a reference point can be very helful.

Note the front is placed on the fold.  While my favorite versions of the blouse are button front, I don’t want to deal with buttons/band/holes right now.  I think it enough that I need to adjust the shoulder width, armscye, sleeve cap and maybe some ease in this first blouse.

I serge finish all the edges of my TRB. The way this sews together, it makes sense to serge finish first.

In seconds I have decided upon a slit front placket with FOE.  A decision reached mostly because I have this interesting FOE sitting on the shelf instead of squirreled away in the FOE boxes.  It has a basket weave effect which I think looks nice with the lines of the fabric. I stitch one of the shoulders together; mark my front placket and reinforce with some stay stitching and Frey Check before I clip.  I like to stitch my FOE with one shoulder open. When done, I close the shoulder.  Makes a very nice neat, unlumpy neckline.  Every other procedure I’ve tried, well I end up with a lump or ends sticking out.  Too late I realize that while this neckline is quite lovely, it’s a bit deep.  I will need a button closure.

I have 7 boxes of buttons.  Sorted by color. Works well. While not filled to the brim, there are plenty of choices. Yet I am unable to find a button which I think would look nice with this fabric.  I spent a hour.  Looked through blue, black, gold, white, silver. Nope. Nope. Noooooo. I give up for the day, mostly because dinner is ready, and go upstairs.  On the kitchen table is a big terrarium bowl filled with buttons. I bought it last year at a garage sale.

I keep intending to move it to my sewing/stash rooms but just never can find the time to straighten, rearrange and make a place for it.  I look at it now. Look inside….and would you believe the perfect button is on top?

Just staring at me. Saying “Here I am, Bev.”   I still question the color. Do I want blue or black; and I was concerned as to whether this 1″ button would just disappear or make a contribution to the end garment.

I”m still thinking of getting out my black marker and changing the color.

I stitched it to the left side next to the slit.  It was wobbly.  I removed it, put a big button on the underside and then stitched this button on the public side.  That’s an old trick which works surprisingly well. You’d think that 2 buttons would be too heavy for the fabric but no, they hold each other up.  Next up which I don’t have a picture, was needing a button hole.  I defaulted to another fav, the hair elastic.  Stitched on and the excess clipped, it works really well.

Possibly I should have used water soluble thread and done some ripping and restitching but I knew I was running out of time.  I can’t be sure that I will be able to return the next day. Any next day. I always have 1 bad day every week but there can be more. So I pressed on, pinning the sleeves with their side-pieces in place,  offsetting the top of the shoulder /sleeve seam allowances 1/2″.  I was rather shocked to find that the sleeves needed easing.  Not just a little bit either.  It is like I didn’t shorten the sleeve cap at all.  I was stunned looking at that. Could I recut the sleeve at this point?  Exactly where needed to be changed?  Was this a fabric issue? Obviously my calculations were off and I needed to walk the pattern pieces.   Thing is, chemo saps my energy.  I want to do more, but I can’t.  I decided to ease the sleeve caps and stitch them in place.  I like the way this looks…

…but it isn’t the way the pattern is drafted.  I love the way the pattern is drafted.  I am running out of time on this day and decide to leave it as is – it does look nice, I’ll deal with the pattern later.

I have another issue, the sleeve is too long  I’d already serged the cuff to the sleeve.  Even with the fabric bonded, I didn’t want to rip that.  Instead, I make two 1/4″ tucks parallel to each other across the sleeve.  I’m sorry the pics didn’t turn out because it looks really nice. Planned, instead of an after-the-fact fix.

Above, I don’t know if I’m looking at fit issues, posture or photography issues.  The back hem is not level. Later on, during wear, I find that the back neck wants to creep up. This begs a few questions.  Was my 5/8″ RBA too much?  Not enough? In the wrong place?  Do I need to add more back width? Or do I really just need more length?  These are questions that I will answer in future fittings.

When I look at this pic, I see the curvature of my back.  But then I step back and say, “Hey that doesn’t look all that bad.”  I can wear this blouse so many places.

So conclusion is that, I’m not ready to go onto other TRB variations.  Basically I need to work on this version and target 2 issues

  1. Shoulder width
  2. Sleeve/armscye fit and length.

I think it’s a great blouse.  Glad I made it. I may even keep copy the jacket sleeve again and keep this pattern for times when I want a gathered/eased sleeve.

Tabula Rasa Refit

-Although I use the T-shirt pattern the most, it isn’t just the T which will need refitting.  I use my blouse version second most and occasionally make the jacket. Despite no longer wearing many jackets,  I decide to start with refitting the jacket because the changes to this pattern will be applied to the blouse and Tee patterns. The blouse and Tee patterns will need a few extra changes.

I check the booklet for sizing.  As expected, my butt will no longer be easily covered by a large.  I need the XL.  I trace sleeve, A-B front, back and side panel.  I use the straight side panel the most but occasionally I do use the flared side.  Rather than trace both straight and flared, I make the side panel do double duty in that I trace the flared but draw fold lines in the interior to indicate the side seams of the  of the straight side panel.  At this oint I made only 2 tissue alterations,  my 5/8″ shoulder slope and 5/8″ round back alterations.

Although shown buttoned on the face page, I’m more likely to wear my jacket “open”

 

The stash fabric I’ve chosen is more of a medium weight, blouse type fabric.  I’ve found  the oversized blouse or a light-weight jacket to be tremendously valuable in my wardrobe.  I use these garments mostly  to kill-the-chill which can occur inside during the winter but also takes place in any air-conditioned space (think freezer section of the grocery store, restaurants, etc.) From time to time,  I want a coordinating 3rd layer but no extra warmth.  Again, the oversized blouse/light-weight jacket is just the ticket. My chosen blouse-type fabric is perfect for the above uses.   No idea what is happening to my fabric  tags. I know I bought it last year. Can’t remember where.  Also, fiber content is dubious.  Might be a little poly mixed with the cotton because the fabric doesn’t wrinkle. It crushes but bounces back. A lot. Like 95% recovery.  Interesting weave which may be the real reason fro excellent recovery.. There are all kinds of free ends on the inside.

Inside—————————————————————Public Side

I’m not familiar with it.  I’m presuming some kind of woven jacquard in which the floats are secured and trimmed on the inside to prevent snags.

I lightly pressed my fabric, laid out the newly trace pattern tissues and cut the pieces. I’m sure I’ve mentioned this before but once you work through the assembly process once, the Tabula Rasa jacket and T almost assemble themselves.  I serge finish the edges and stitch the pieces together but I leave it unhemmed and  the front band off. I remember the jacket pattern as being phenomenally easy to fit but expected to make some changes.

After adding the 1/2″ shoulder pads (it is a soft jacket), I slipped it on and paraded in front the full length mirror.  My, how pleased I was.  The shoulders may be a little too wide but this is intended as a jacket so I won’t change them.  I will allow the shoulder pad to do its work. The sleeves are about 1″ too long which reinforces my observation that the shoulder is too wide.  With any of the Big-4 patterns I always immediately add a 1″ narrow-shoulder adjustment which brings the sleeve 1″ further up on the arm.  Well, I do it for the other patterns too, it is just that I check them with my block and fix the shoulder by tracing my block onto the new pattern.  I haven’t even pulled out my block to refit the TRJ.   For now, I will hem the sleeve 2″ but alter the pattern for future ‘jackets’

An alteration I forgot to make was shortening the sleeve cap to correspond with the 5/8″ shoulder slope alteration. I had to ease the sleeve into place.  Looks OK  so that will be another alteration for future jackets.

I added big facings..

…because I had the fabric and even though this is an unstructured garment, a little  it of body won’t hurt.

Without the front band, I see an unbuttoned, cardigan-style garment.   I considered just binding the neckline/center front edge except this is a fitting exercise. A fitting exercise reveals all the fitting issues including unneeded or too large bands.  Instead of tracing the band pattern piece, I measured it.  I find it easier to slap a long ruler on top of the fabric to cut those long skinny pieces or for that matter any rectangular piece.  I cut a 4.25″ by 34″ band on the fold. Otherwise I would have cut 2 of the same sized bands. It will be interfaced and applied when the hems are complete.  I was fascinated by the shape of the chosen button

Getting a button that echoed the flavor of the fabric was irresistible. So even though the button color does not match exactly, I’m using it.

Band and facings are interfaced. The rest of the jacket is left, soft; unstructured.

I expected the jacket to bee too long. I was surprised that the bust dart is  too low.  I rarely need my tops shortened across the upper bust.   The dart doesn’t make a dramatic showing, so I will just change my tissue for future jackets.  But I didn’t expect the jacket to hang down to mid thigh.  Doesn’t look bad which surprises me. I like my blouses no longer than 26″  (jackets  27″)  because any longer and I look like I’m playing dress-up with in my mom’s clothes. I may be wrong, but for now, I’m hemming this jacket 2″.  Will evaluate over-all length  in the final pics and make appropriate changes.

I think I may be adding a new alteration–sometime in the future.

I’ve noticed the above happening more frequently the result, I think, of posture changes due the last challenging year. The back seems to be pulling up even though I’ve added my 5/8″ RBA. At the neck it tends to creep up and even add dimples, depending upon fabric. The  hem is higher in front than back. Is the back creeping up causing the front to hang lower? I’ve already done a substantial RBA. It isn’t sway-back (see back pic above.)   Wonder which alteration I’m going to need?

******

ALTERATIONS MADE

JACKET

  • 5/8 RBA
  • 5/8 Shoulder Slope
  • 5/8″ tuck across sleeve cap
  • -1″ Sleeve length
  • 1/2″ raise dart.
  • -1″ Bodice Length

ALTERATIONS NEEDED

BLOUSE

all the above plus

  • 1″ narrow shoulder alteration
  • Shoulder will need to be 1/8″ deeper (for 3/8″ vs 1/2″ shoulder pads)
  • -2″

 

 

?StarTrek??

I wanted an easy success. Fit for Art Tabula Rasa is a good choice. (They won’t let me link to a pic, so if you want to see the schematic, click on the link).  I still want to make winter/cool weather clothes. It may be warming, but I am still in South Dakota. Typically we have long cool springs–feels more like a drawn out winter thaw sometimes. No more sweater knits in the stash, but I do have a couple of cushy double knits like this bright blue ponte purchased I think from Fabric.com

To position large prints and stripes, I expanded the  quarter pattern pieces into full (both sides instead of a quarter placed on a fold or cut double).  I find the full pattern pieces easier to use when working with stripes and yes I care even when the stripes are as subtle as these.  I’m also still concerned with easy access to my port during chemo treatments. So for the neckline I chose to make a high surplice and drafted my cross-over piece

One of the things I really love about Peggy Sagers, is the freedom to slash and develop the pattern into something unique for yourself. I didn’t want two full fronts, just a left underlay. So I copied about the the top 3rd of the front. Held it up to my body and marked how deep I wanted the neckline. Using my curve, I drew a neckline.  Didn’t like that,so I drew another.  Finally I shortened the piece to above the bust darts.

I’ve gotten to the point I hate facings and didn’t want to use them, but I feared FOE would not wrap the edge nicely. I chose to cut a neck binding  and for good measure contrasting cuffs of the same black knit.  It was only when I saw the finished pics that I thought Star Trek.

Anyway, easy sew. Once your fit the FFA and understand the directions, feels practically like it puts itself together.

After several years and many pounds, I am beginning to notice fit issues. Like the diagonal on the  left back…

duck butt on the side view (especially prominent on my left side). Also either I’ve got my bra straps way too tight or the bust dart is in the wrong place. I’m rather surprised I hadn’t noticed that in the hundred or so previous versions. What you can’t see, is that the sleeve feels very close especially with this 20% stretch ponte.

I tried to fix the fitting issues by adding 1/4″ along the seam allowances but I think I really need to trace and fit the next size up. I’m not really sad, just a twinge of regret, when realizing at the rate I’m gaining weight I probably will only wear this top during the rest of winter and early spring this year.  In a way, that’s OK because the fabric was a concern.  I bought it thinking pants but didn’t want to wear the bright blue on my bottom. My style is either monochrome/pattern or darker on bottom with lighter brighter on top. When I looked at the bright blue, I couldn’t find anything lighter or brighter either in my stash or my closet to wear as a top. I knew if I made pants, they’d sit in my closet. I like the top and while not planned, I realized I would be happy wearing it with blue or black pants because of the black binding.

Next time however, I will be refitting.

*****

Note all photos were headless because my hair is having a particularly bad time. It is almost 3 inches long and all fuzz.  On this day I had tried wrapping it around curlers to dry because I didn’t want to stand in front of the mirror for an hour with the curling iron. It didn’t work. Not only is the hair still frizzy but now it breaks and sticks out in clumps. Iin multiple places.

 

 

Kendall 2

I couldn’t get my first Kendall Top out of my mind. It had looked good at the first fitting. What and when did it go wrong? One evening I read all the Kendall reviews at Pattern Review.com. Most of them were positive with only a a very few issues. One most common was the empire line rising although not as badly as I had experienced (my empire line traveled from below to above the bust prominence). This particular post by mmmberry did show many issues similar to mine but none so bad. (Her issues were bad enough that she concluded it was not a pattern for her).  What really jumped out at me is clearly shown in this pic:

I know I eased my collar from shoulder all the way to the end of the crossover.

Pic above clearly shows that collar is stitched to within about 2″ of the end point. Huh? How did I miss that?

So I pulled out the pattern; compared with my copy and realized I had missed this mark;

I had persuaded the collar to extend at least 1.5″ further than the designer drafted. The other thing I remember doing is matching the shoulder marks on the collar with the bodice. That would be wrong because the garment shoulder changed when I stitched the shoulders deeper. Last thing I check was did I cut the collar on the correct grain?  Which I did. So the question now is, are those two changes enough to have distorted the final garment as badly as it was?

Only one way to find out, cut new fabric.  My next fabric is a marketed as a Liverpool Knit. I know there are people who are over-the-top about Liverpool knit, but honestly, I don’t like it. It reminds me of the cheap double knits of the 60’s. On top of that, I’m not in love with the print.  It looked better on the internet than in my hands.  But that makes it perfect for this second Kendall. I’m just not sure the Kendall will work for me and don’t want to sacrifice another very nice fabric. Besides, after this I have only 1 piece of Liverpool left.

I laid out, cut and I again basted back, both front bodices and this time I inserted the collar. I moved the shoulder marks on the collar to correspond with the new depth of the shoulder seam. I slipped the shell over my head and let out my  breath. Apparently I was holding my  breath, unsure of the possible results.  It was as comfortable as the first fitting of my first Kendal and now crossed in front correctly.

I cut and applied the facings which presented me with another delimina. The bottom edges of the right  facing would not meet. As I thought about it I realized the difference was probably a result of my asymmetrical shoulder alterations.  My alteration is simple, I stitch the right shoulder deeper than the left That does of course shorten the neck length on the right side and explained why the facing was longer.  I trimmed the facing to the same length. A mistake which I did not realize until after I had finished the garment. The collar meets beautifully at center front above. It does not in the finished garment.

Additionally there are drag lines which should have been corrected with the shoulder sloper and round back altertions

I think the killer though is the depth of the neckline.  Even with collar inserted and  pinned as it is here

that neckline is far too low.

At least I don’t regret the waste of this fabric.  It was called Liverpool knit.  I know others rave about it but I am reminded of those horrible double knits I wore in the 60’s which stained, snagged and looked dreadful.

I could spent more time adjusting shoulders, back, neckline, collar. Truth is I already spend  all my patience on pants.  I have none left for difficult to adapt tops especially since my sloper works so well when used properly.  I’ve decided this pattern is not for me.  I finished the garment but both it and the pattern are in the donate box. Good luck somebody else.

 

 

(((((((((Side note)))))))) I received several comments (some private) after publishing my first Kendal, that this pattern had simply not worked for them.  They were terrific morale support as the said it really could be the pattern and not me.

Why I start with my sloper and add details.

I continue to look for interesting necklines that open in the front and make accessing my port easier for the chemo nurses. I thought the Style Arc Kendall pattern would be such a beauty when I purchased it.  I was hoping a few quick alterations and the pattern would fit nicely. I was mostly concerned that the neckline might be way too low.

I chose size “green” that is the size with green lines, by comparing  with my sloper. I traced then added a 5/8″ shoulder slope and 5/8″ round back alteration.

Then I selected my fabric a lovely silver/black jacquard.  It has 30% crosswise stretch but no, none, ZERO stretch lengthwise.

I cut a front and back pieces –not the sleeve or collar– and basted together. I was totally stunned that the armscye hung below my bra. Leave the strings for someone else, I wear a good supporting bra.  My bra band is a good 2.5-3″ wide and I prefer wide straps. The armscye hung well below  my bra band. I fussed and pinned before basting the shoulders at a 1.5″ depth.  Now at this point, the top looked fairly nice but still a little low in front. I expected that big shawl collar would fill up a little of that depth.

Having removed 2″ depth of the neckline, I assumed I would need to adjust the length of the collar as well. But that was for the next day’s sewing and I forgot it. I cut the collar the default length.  Realizing my error, I started pinning the collar to the neckline trying to estimate if I could ease the collar or really needed to shorten it somehow.  To my astonishment, the collar was 3″ shorter than the neckline.

???

I made the neckline shorter when making the shoulder seams deeperi.e. there is less neckline length. Wouldn’t the collar need to be shorter instead of longer?  Wouldn’t the collar be 3″ longer than the neckline??Well sometimes, especially when dealing with bias edges, you need to ease them together. I quartered and marked both collar and neckline, then ran it through the serger.  Nothing eases like a serger. N-o-t-h-i-n-g. Looked good, so I continued on inserting the sleeves.  The first fitting (above) was really pretty good, Oh sure there is always room for improvement, but it was pretty good and so I confidently not only inserted sleeves but I stitched side seams and hemmed before trying on again.

What a shock. It felt wrong and  absolutely looked wrong in the mirror. No amount of fussing or adjusting made it any better.

My stance in this photo actually improves the look. Without my arms stuck out, there are big folds from shoulder to bust and again from the empire nearly to the hem. Note the empire which was below the pointy part of my bra is trying to creep up over the points.

Although there appears to be sufficient circumference, the back wants to creep upwards at neckline and at hip. The hem is uneven with the front clearly hiking up. The nicely done  7/8 sleeve is about the only redeeming feature.

I don’t have many Style Arc patterns.  It used to be necessary to order them from Australia and wait weeks for their arrival. But I also don’t remember any outstanding garments I constructed with Style Arc patterns, either.  Please don’t take that as a reflection on the company. I buy a number of Indy patterns and a few from the Big 4.  I never cut using their tissue like I did for the Kendall.  I either copy my sloper and then copy the style detail in which I was interested or I trace their tissue and then, placing my sloper on top, adjust their pattern to my tissue. That is what I should have done here.  However, I do think something was really off with the collar–not denying it was my fault but the bodice looked pretty good until I inserted collar and front bodice facing.

Right now this top  is sitting in the closet as a UFO.  It would take a lot of picking to correct.  I just don’t have the patience.  Wish it even felt better on me, which it doesn’t,  because I might wear it warts and all