TRB: The Reveal

Yes I finished! I am pleased but noted some interesting discrepancies between fitting and the final garment. l

Well not the back. The back is about the same.  Even in a medium (instead of the large used for the Jacket) the blouse is roomy.  I am using the flared side panel, which I probably won’t use in the future. Also I blended between medium and large at he hip. Possibly that will go away.   I am pleased that rotated the RBA to the shoulders worked so well. There is a possibility that a curvy body needs garment curves to at exactly the right place. IOW, darts they may not be moved elsewhere when they are needed at a specific place. Feel like I got lucky this time.

I’m a bit confused by the final side views above. Their drag lines are hardly visible in the fitting photos below.

Should I assume I need to fix something or that maybe I stretched something during the final stitching?  I do agree that I probably need to do more for my right shoulder which is lower than the left.

Also the sleeves seem a bit long but when I bend my arm, I like the length.

I love the front view

Although I have some questions. For example why is the bust dart (red arrow) so much lower than my bust (green arrow)?

I’m inclined to just ignore this discrepancy because it seems to work with this roomy blouse.

My last discrepancy has to do with the neckline depth

If I’d put my button right across from my apex, which is my preferred 2nd button, the first button spaced at 2.5″ would have been dangling at the neck edge. I considered a 2″ spacing which would have worked but required 7 button and looked off. I don’t know. Crowded? Excessive? That many buttons on this fabric, spaced that closely together upset my sense of balance.

So am I going to wear this?  YOU BET!  I do plan to shorten the sleeve 3/4″ and raise the neckline about 3/4″.  I will do that immediately.  Using the straight or flared panel will always be an option depending upon the fabric I’m using at the time.  Over all length is also subject to the current garment.  While this tunic length has its own loveliness, I see no reason why I could not shorten up to 2″ on whatever whim. As for removing the blending from medium to large at the hip? That’s a probably future event. I’m just not in a hurry to get it done. I like the roomy look.

Once again, I’d like to reiterate that the purchase of the Shirt Variations was a good choice for me. While I”m glad I went through the process of drafting a moulage, (it was a game changer for me), I still don’t like drafting patterns. I tolerate made alterations.  I will make easy minor changes such as a neckline or hem length variation. But I didn’t have to. Fit For Art spared me the entire awful experience of drafting a blouse based on the jacket pattern. But I can understand someone would skip the purchase if short on money or  loving the drafting experience.  Each to their own. This was a good experience for me.

Tabula Rasa Shirt Variations

I realized at the first fitting of the jacket, that I wanted help converting it to a blouse. I ordered the Shirt Variations immediately and continue to finish my first TRJ.  Usually my orders from PR take close to a week. I was pleasantly surprised when the package arrived about 3 days later.   I read the directions and looked at the pattern pieces.  Now if anyone wants to say $12 plus $5 shipping is a bit high, I agree. I purchased through Pattern Review because, thank God, I’ve been ordering through them for years, long before whatever validating programs have swept the on-line retail market causing so many places, Fit For Art included, to reject my address and thereby my orders. I’ll stop there because that’s a long story of its own but please don’t tell me to purchase direct from FFA. They won’t let me.

So what did I get for $12

  • Huge booklet of instructions. Well 8×11 sized pages  that were folded in half; and quite a few to page though I   didn’t count.
  • 2 sets of pattern pieces – 1 for sizes L to 3XL the other sizes L-XS which include
    • curved cuff
    • stand up collar
    • flat collar
    • back facing
    • front facing
    • front template

Because of all the fitting changes I need, I never use someone else’s facings. I always alter my pattern and then copy the pattern to make facings. With shirts/blouses I rarely use the back facing. I prefer bindings That makes 2 less pieces (back facing and front facing) applicable to me and  I won’t even trace.  I’m unlikely to use the stand up collar or the curved cuff.  I might someday but cuffs are so easy to draft and I rarely, like almost never, use a stand-up collar. I don’t like the way a stand-up collar rubs my neck. So that’s 2 less pieces for me and again, I didn’t trace . I in fact paid $17 for

  • Booklet of instructions.
  • flat collar
  • front template

It seems like a lot of $$ for what I’m actually going to use and I’m reconsidering my interest in the other FFA variation packages. Despite the cost and the inclusion of pieces I’m probably never going to use in the end, I am pleased. Why?  Because it made conversion from jacket to button front blouse incredibly easy. Just incredibly.

I traced a size medium blending to a large at the hip. Yep back to the original pattern and trace it once again because I had decided the size large makes a nice jacket but seemed a little large for a typical blouse. I also traced the flared side panel. It’s so easy to make that into a straight panel but to start with I wanted to be sure I had enough ease across my rear.  Next, put the jacket pattern  away and pull out the variations pattern. Trace the flat collar . Slide the medium Blouse Front Template beneath the jacket front tracing and added the appropriate lines.

It was amazingly easy. No measuring or pulling out the curve. Just slide the template into place and trace.  I moved from the drafting stage, which I don’t want to do, in seconds.

I still needed fitting alterations so the size medium just traced I made

  1. 3/4″ shoulder slope. That’s an increase of 1/8″ which I did because I still had a hint of back diagonals.
  2. 5/8″ RBA rotated to the shoulder.  FFA recommends rotating to the neck. I resist working with the neck as much as possible. It’s far to easy to stretch out of shape. Besides rotating to the neck looks like you don’t really know what you are doing. Rotating to the shoulder is the golden standard. There is a possibility, strong possibility, that the shoulder dart can be moved to the shoulder-neck or shoulder-armscye. I’m taking this one step at a time. While the experts seem to think a dart can be moved anywhere, my personal experience says there is a limit.  I want to know if, when and where these changes go wrong. So I make changes step by step. Rotate to the neck worked.Now I want to know if I can successfully  rotate to shoulder.
  3. 1/4″ lower back dart. Not sure what else to call that.  I’m very round and need a back dart opposite the bust dart.  I’m always bemused that it works because I have to make the side seams match and so immediately
  4. 1/4″ added to the back seam length at the hem.
  5. Increased length of front, back and side panel 2.5″
  6. Decreased that long sleeve cap 1/2″.  That may not be enough. I walked it and it seems enough but I removed 1.5″ (3/4 on front armscye and 3/4″ on back armscye).  Because I removed 1.5″ length from the armscyes I should need to either remove 1.5″ from the sleeve cap or add some back to the armscyes.  Sigh, ATM I’m doing what I can measure and not relying on mathematics alone.

It seems like a lot of alterations but there could be more.  I haven’t narrowed the shoulder. I measure the medium shoulder, subtracted the seam allowances and decided not to do an NSA, yet.  I also did not make a BWL (back waist length adjustment). Both adjustments are like 2nd nature to me. I nearly always need an NSA. The BWL is nearly always needed if there is any side seam shaping.  There is slight shaping along the side seams but I haven’t needed the BWL for either the Tee or Jacket. For now, I’m not doing a BWL, yet.

A quick walk of the seams and I proceeded to stare at the stash.  I’ve got enough fabric to set up shop in a 3rd world country. But when it comes time to choose a test fabric I stare and stare and stare.  I want this test fabric to have a similar weave, drape and weight of the fabrics I’d commonly select for blouses. For me that’s rayons and most cottons. I’ve got nothing in the muslin pile.  Either the fabrics are too heavy and stiff or they are knits.  The wrong knits. I couldn’t use most of them for musling the Tee. So I’m staring at the regular stash looking for a sacrificial fabric that will make a good muslin. That means no knits,no strip matching; no dark fabrics. Some of the fabrics I just can’t sacrifice.  I really want to wear them. Finally I do find a 2.5 yard by 60″ wide rayon.  Purchased 13 years ago, the print is slightly outdated.  But I love the colors and the rayon is exactly what I want to test. So rayon it is.

 

Tune in tomorrow when I test the fit.

 

 

 

Tabula Rasa JACKET

A hunt through my stash for fabric completely changed the my thinking since I did the pattern comparison on Feb 27.   I discovered a voile/lawn fabric languishing in my resources room for about 20 years. Lined or unlined it would make a nice blouse. It’s too transparent to be worn unlined, unless used as an over blouse or jacket. Ah perfect! Instead of immediately trying to convert this pattern to a blouse, I decided to trace and cut the size large jacket. 

I made few changes to the large tracing.

  • I traced the A-B cup even though I successfully used the C cup front on the T.  I’m just not certain that the C-cup did anything for  my barely-B cup body.
  • I immediately made a 5/8″ slope adjustment to the shoulders
  • Added a 1/2″ RBA rotating the RBA to the neckline darts as per Fit-For-Art’s instructions and video(I apologize I lost the link.  When I find it again, I will update this page.)
  • Learning from my previous issues with the T, I made two 5/8″ darts in the sleeve cap to offset the changes made to the shoulder slope.

This is the kind of fabric that kind stretch out of shape before you get to the sewing machine . My first step was reinforcing necklines and shoulder seams with bias tape.  I’m using the flared side panel because I think it has a slightly feminine effect and decided to further that by adding trim along the neck-band.  I skipped the WST this time choosing to baste with 4mm stitches all the seams at the 5/8″ designated seam allowance before the first try on.

The first try-on said I was very close.  I need shoulder pads. I waffled because they can be seen in this fabric. My standard is adding 1/4-3/8″  shoulder pads to my blouses. I think my blouses look much better with shoulder pads.  Without the shoulder pads 2 deep diagonal form. The diagonals that indicate shoulder slope or round back adjustments are needed.

otherwise, as a jacket or 3rd layer, I think the fit is fine. I proceeded to finish without further adjustments and I was able to spend extra time trimming the band

I attached a 3/4″ wide lace and couched a decorative thread on the public side.  Ran out of lace, so on the private side I skipped the lace but couched the decorative thread.  When the jacket is worn, it is rolled at the collar and trim shows whether looking at the public or private sides.

This was a 2 day project (each session taking about 4 hours).  I half-way expected success because of FFA’s instructions to make the same changes to both jacket and T. Still I was delighted to find out they told the truth.

 

So, I’m not wild about the final garment. It’s OK b-u-t

I really don’t like the shoulder pads showing.  It’s a fit issue. I need the shoulder pads. Will want the pattern to stay drafted for shoulder pads for other garments. This lawn/voile, not a good idea.  The fabric clings.  It is an over-garment that doesn’t want to go over. During pics, I realized the sleeve is  too long.

It’s in the magic closet for now.  There are weeks to go  before I would choose the wear this ‘jacket’. Despite the pics above, I do think it fits and works as a jacket.

I’m really glad I made the jacket version and didn’t try to immediately make a blouse.  I realize that it’s going to take more than just adjusting the circumference to make the jacket into a blouse. While I don’t anticipate buying the sleeve and cuff variations, I did order the Shirt Variations which will make it easier to transition the pattern to a blouse.   I might order the Rain or Shine Variations and the Sporty Details the later for the instructions on narrowing the pant leg something that I fail at repeatedly.  I’m almost sad FFA doesn’t offer more variations and more patterns.  I think this pattern line really does accommodate my curves.  I like the idea of buying a pattern for which I won’t need massive alterations.

 

TISSUE Issues

  • Changes made:
    • Trace Size Large
    • 1/2″ RBA rotated to neck darts
    • Shoulder slope increase 5/8″
  • To do:
    • Narrow shoulder adjustment 1/2″
    • Trim seam allowances to my standard 1/4″ and 1/2″
    • Shorten sleeve 1.5″

 

 

 

TRT: Slinky

I started this Tabula Rasa Tee just before receiving my Silhouette 195 pattern.  I was going to finish the TRT then start fitting 195 but I made neckline mistake. Maybe not really my mistake. The elastic I chose to finish the neck edge frayed required unpicking.  Unpicking is not a chore I look forward to ever. It was particularly distasteful now because I had stitched on black lace elastic and top stitched with black thread.   I decided to take a little break and fit 195. I anticipated 2 days. The break stretched into 2 weeks. All my thoughts were stale when I returned to finish my T.  I had chosen to test the TRT with a slinky fabric.

Wit the yellow mess I had converted and tested the back which contains a 1/2″ RBA that has been rotated to neckline darts.  The yellow mess was a loss, but I was confident that the alteration would remove all the last, back wrinkles; and it did even with this slinky

There is a little something going on underneath the left shoulder. That’s unusual but I don’t think I’m going to worry because both sides are perfect

 

The little bulge at the waist, is my belt buckle.  It might behoove me to wear a pant that does not require a belt when wearing slinky.

The sleeve is good.  It could be a little tighter and a little shorter. The lace applique (which I will share in a subsequent post) is not showing as well as I’d like.

With its FOE neckline finish, the front is equally lovely

BTW, I didn’t unpick. I trimmed the previous finish away. Smoothed the curve and then applied the FOE.

At the time I cut this fabric, I offset the front and back pieces 1/4″ from the fold.  This removed a total 1″ circumference.  When it came time to sew the side/sleeve unit to the front/back, I got cold feet. What if I had removed too much ease?  I serged those long seams then tried it on to check fit.  I was relieved to see the shoulders were too wide, the sleeve too long and the garment definitely in need of the 1/2″ seam allowances I had planned. I returned to the SM, stitched those long seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance then turned up the bottom hem and cover stitched it.  My initial change (less 1″ ease) is a success at least during fitting.  This is a fairly new fabric. Think it’s been in-stash only 3 years.  So I’m not entirely sure how this slinky will act.  Will it stretch much length wise? Continue to grow like slinkies of old?  I don’t know until I wear it for a while.  So I like this garment but the jury is still out because I won’t know how the fabric behaves until I’ve worn it at least once.

 

******

  • Summary of pattern changes
    • Off set front and back 1/4″ from fold
  • Proposed changes
    • Back/Front
      • Length -1/2″
    • Sleeve
    • Length -1/2″
    • Circumference -1/2″

 

Muslin 2

I dwaddled and delayed making needed tweaks. I was unsure.

Fitting is somewhat like diagnosing a bodily illness. Sure, when you show up at the hospital with a bone sticking out, they know pretty quickly what to do. But when you show up saying, “I hurt all over and I’m just so exhausted”, it takes medical staff a little longer. Truth is our bodies have only so many obvious symptoms that we report: pain, inflammation, unusual bodily bumps and a few more but not many.  Medical personal have to start putting together what they know about the body with what you are telling them.  Oh and there’s that thing called referred pain.  I know about that.  I showed up at the dentist office having made an appointment a few days earlier.  Only now I’m in pain. He asks me “So what’s this about pain?” I reply “I know this tooth chipped. That’s when I made the appointment.  I can see the tooth is chipped. But it’s the tooth directly opposite that hurts.”  That’s when he told me about referred pain.

Our fitting diagnoses can also take a circular route.  They say ‘read the wrinkles’ and ‘the wrinkles point at the issue”.  I’ve noticed, thought, that the wrinkles have two ends which point.  How can I be sure, for example a wrinkle from the front crotch is pointing to a short front crotch, a full front thigh, or a short back crotch?  Give up?  On me it’s nearly always a short back crotch!  So I look at the wrinkles on my 195 top. I’ve made the obvious corrections the usual amounts. Am I still looking at obvious causes? Or should I be considering something else?

I really had to agreed that these:

 

looked like a needed RBA.  I was puzzled and hesitant because the downward diagonal didn’t seem to be accompanied by fabric stretch across the center back.  I had a 1/2″ CB seam (added for the purpose of making an RBA) and decided to use it to test.  I restitched that seam so that it curved from neck  out to cross back and returned to waist.   I increased the width at the cross back 1/2″.  Did that work?

Unfortunately that would be a “no”. The same diagonals are present from shoulder-blade to side seam at the hip.

Perhaps not enough ease at the hip.  No pic above also shows the result of stitching the side seams at 1/4″ instead of 1/2″.  In fact letting out the seams was a mistake.  I altered my tissue for 1/2″ side seams.  At 1/2″ the front armscye is nice and smooth

Add a little more ease and the front armscyes are now gaping.

The sides views weren’t improved either.

So what’s next. I started by returned the side seams and center back to the 1/2″ seam depth I desired.  Perplexed, I measured the armscyes.  Measuring right at the edge (which I was thinking would be a nice place to wrap FOE), but not including seams allowances at the shoulder or side seam give me an 17-7/8 armscye. Measuring inward at the seam line as Peggy drafted, 19.5″.  My minimum armscye, the armscye I would want for leotards and scuba suits is 19.5. Ummm…  I opted to lower the armscye 1/2″ and take more pics.

Lowering the armscye had an interesting effect.  I lowered it 1/2″. That’s all. However, compare the two underarm pics

The underarm in the right hand pic (and looking at my right side underarm) is considerably lower than the left.  I measured.  I measured down from the underarm 1/2″ and redrew the sides to curve smoothly.  I trimmed the excess, then serge finished. It’s hard for me to understand why the underarm looks 1-1.5″ lower.

Good news is that the diagonal wrinkles, as seen in the side views,  are better

Not completely gone, but much lessened.  So what now.

 

Well, I wear sleeveless tops in spring, summer and fall. I never want a neckline that high during any of those seasons.  So I trimmed the neckline to the highest I will wear and I finished it with FOE. I didn’t have to finish it. But sometimes, I start something and I’m not satisfied until it is all the way done. Then I looked carefully at the back alterations I’ve made to previous garments.  This is not exactly a brand new fitting issue.  I drew a line across the back where I’ve previously altered the back and made 1/4″ darts at the sides which zero at CB.  It seems as though I need extra length at cross back, but then it’s too much length at the side only a few inches lower

My back photo caught me just removing my hands from settling the back into place. So, it

could be suspect.  Front and side however look really good even lightened 70%.

The final proof would be sewing up one of my pastel knits. Unfortunately, I’m not inclined to make another sleeveless garment at the moment.  Temps have once again dropped to the point photo sessions being uncomfortable. For now, I’m listing the accumulated changes

  • Size 5W across shoulders and armscyes; 7W down side seam
  • 1″ tuck above bust on both front and back pieces.
  • Shoulder slope increased to 1/2″ left, 3/4″ right
  • Decrease bust circumference 1.5″ starting at underarm zero on side seam 4″ lower
  • RBA 1/2″
  • Add 3/8″ seam allowance to CB
  • Cross bust dart 1/2″ at side seams, zero at 3″ towards CB.
  • Length add 2.5″ (1.25″ length, 1.25″ hem)
  • Lower underarm 1/4″ (may need to be increased)

I’m this close <>.  I count it a success, my first real success with fitting Silhouette Patterns. In the next few weeks the weather will warm and I will return to tweak my 195 sleeveless top.  For now, there are other things that need to be done.  If it stays cool long enough, I might take on the long sleeved top.

 

 

 

 

 

SP195 Muslin 2

I contemplated recutting the sleeve and tweaking the right side of the garment but then decided I couldn’t really tell how the garment would fit until I corrected the RBA.  I started to transfer my changes to the tissue. Wait a sec. At this point I’m thinking I need a sleeveless version, a sleeved version and a cardigan version. May not all at once, but should this pattern work (which it looks like it will) I will want this basic pattern in all 3 versions. So Instead of transferring my changes to the tissue, I traced the tissue and now how a Sleeveless pattern. I petited the Sleeveless pattern 1″. On both back and front I made a  3/8″ deep (3/4″ total) dart below the shoulder in the armscye (terminating at the neckline).  I also lowered the front neckline 1/2″. At that point, I trimmed the excess from the neckline and shoulder; trued the armscye and trimmed excess from around the armscye both back and front.  I added a 1/2″ RBA and 2.5″ in length at the bottom. I marked the side seam so that I trimmed 1-7/8″ at the underarm. Aligned my curve 6 at the armscye and 11 at the stitched seamline.  Added 1/2″ seam allowances and trimmed all the excess tissue. Not sure it will look very different to you

I started to rip apart the old muslin when the stray thought exploded in my brain. “Surely there was more fabric I could use for a trial garment”.  Muslin 1 had been on and off my body 8 times. Pressed and lightly starched about the same.  Wonder how much it had been stretched? Besides, when alterations are incorporated into the pattern, the fabric can hang a bit differently. I searched for an older jersey knit fabric, preferably a light cotton. Very shortly I came across an animal print. Pseudo because I know of no animal with blue and black splotches on a cream background. It’s most endearing quality is 3 yards of 60″ wide fabric. I can make a muslin and have enough left to make a real garment! Win-win! I cut the back and front from this new fabric. Stitched the darts and center back seam. Serge finished every edge except the shoulders which I serge front and back together.  My serge creates a finished 1/4″ seam so I also stitched the shoulder 3/8 deep on the sewing machine before basting the side seams.

Peggy is right about this pattern being quick.  Once the fitting is done, I’m sure I can cut, sew and wear in about 2 hours time. Or less.

My first fitting was a genuine surprise. Pleasant at that.

You can’t actually see how lovely this fabric is because I lightened the pics 70% but you can see there’s not a whole lot of bad stuff going on.  I might should let out the front across my tummy 1/8″.   I am wondering about the advice I receive earlier to make the RBA a little bigger.  At the time I stated that I’d used a 3/4″ RBA on another pattern without effect. But this is clearly showing the typical downward dog lines of rounded back. They are equal on both sides.  I was expecting to see diagonal lines only on the right side.  Which are more obvious on the side views

Right Side                            Left Side

I’m wondering if I want to trim out the underarm some. I stood with hands down at both sides; then slipped my right hand over to the left side and held the underarm in place while I lifted my left arm

When wearing it, I thought the underarm was fine. Look at the pic, I’m not so sure.  Anyone want to encourage me to scoop away?

 

SP195: Continuing Muslin #1 Fitting

I did not get back to finish fitting of Muslin 1 as quickly as I wanted. There was a full day in-between and limited time when I again  picked up the muslin.

Time to start considering the sleeve, so the first thing I did was reduce cap height by making a 1/2″ tuck. Then trued the cap shape by using my french curve. I also trimmed 1.75″ from the side seams because that’s what the bodice required at the underarm. A nice side effect is I can now cut 3 full sleeves out of the remaining fabric — if I want.   For now, I cut one sleeve sans hem.  No point in hemming the muslin and cutting off right at the hem fold will tell me unequivocally whether the sleeve is long enough. Or not.  I stitched this sleeve into the left armscye…

and turned my attention to the right armscye.   I read my replies sometimes and think I’m being defensive and there’s no need. I have many new readers. Some will only be interested in my blog as long as I’m working with a Silhouette Pattern. A few have been readers ever since Swap 2003. People who have been reading since 2003 have heard my every whine and rant multiple times. They are sick of it.  A recent reader has no clue of what I’ve done which is evidenced by the repeat suggestions I get. Sometimes my response to the repeat suggestion is less, …. um…. , warm than it could be.  So I decided to repeat some of the fitting suggestions which failed me in the past making, hopefully, a more inclusive response. Besides, Peggy’s draft and fitting procedures are not exactly like any other. It could be those failed alterations would work perfectly in conjunction with her patterns.

So looking at the right armscye with all its gaping and diagonal wrinkles, I decided to pinch the shoulder slope. Not that I haven’t already.  At the last fitting the right shoulder slope was increased to 1″. Now I increased it to 1.5″

This is the ‘right’ shoulder. I edited the pic, cropping and mirroring as well as rotating. So don’t let that confuse you. Please accept this is the garment shoulder which sits on top of my right shoulder.

Even at 1″ I was already modifying the depth of the neck. As drafted the neck is almost uncomfortably right up against my neck in front.    When I increased the shoulder slope to 1″ , the neckline started choking.  I scooped the neck 1/2″ and regained some comfort which I’m already losing with the 1.5″ slope. I particularly want you to notice how the neck is gaping after the slope was increased:

I’m also sorry to say that there is no significant improvement in the armscye gaping just above the bust

I think that’s more clearly seen when I repost the front previous to changing the shoulder slope

If anything, the previous fit was better.

After increasing the shoulder slope, the back is no better either:

Looking at the fit before increasing the shoulder slope to 1.5″

I don’t see any improvement by increasing the shoulder slope from 1″ to 1.5″. Both Connie Crawford and Nancy Zieman have said in various places (wish I had links but some of it is in their hard copy books), that increasing the shoulder slope beyond 1/2″ is ineffective. I may be a little different since the slope also helps with my rounding back.

ETA Peggy in her March 9 2015 broadcast “From the Start: using Silhouette Patterns” along about min 52:00 says only so much can be fixed by pinching shoulder. She suggests increasing bust dart and if neither work change size or bust cup.

My conclusion:  on my personal body increasing the shoulder slope beyond 3/4″ does not reduce any wrinkles, does not reduce gaping and in fact increases discomfort.  If I were to leave the slope at 1.5″, I would need to scoop the armscye  as it is now cutting into my underarm.  Shoulder slope increase FAILURE. Just as on other patterns.

But let’s take a look at the left side now. The sleeve is a little close. I’d actually try to wear it as is in a wearable-muslin.  Un/fortunately, I trashed this muslin with the RBA.  It set in easily so the alterations I made were either spot-on or really good. While I suppose I could complain, I think it’s hanging nicely both front and back and is my preferred length

Back Left
Front Left

I think this is about as good as you can expect a sleeve to look when there aren’t any differences between front and back sleeve cap; no arm curve or other measure to accommodate the elbow and it’s a one piece sleeve. It’s only barely more than a decorated pillowcase for the arm. BUT it isn’t any worse looking/fitting than RTW T-shirt sleeves  (on me). In fact, it fit better than some of the sleeves I’ve stitched up in the last few years. So it’s not perfect, but I’m good. I’m really good with this sleeve other than adding 1/4″ more ease.

However the side view tells me,  I’m going to have to scoop out that armscye:

Yes the left side that was so beautiful sleeveless:


is now begging for a change

I am a little surprised. Sleeveless, the underarm sits about 1.5″ below my underarm. Is it possible I made the sleeve cap too low or reduced to much circumference?  I’ll do some measuring,,,,

 

and let you know.