Version 2 began with a few tissue changes. I immediately added the 5/8″ RBA and 1/4″ center back seam I should have added before cutting fabric for the first version. I trimmed excess added to the side seam allowances down to 1″. That’s the 1/2″ seam allowances included with 1/2″ added ease I desire. Keep in mind, I may still trim away some more especially if I use this pattern (and I will ) with sweater and slinky knits. I trimmed the armscye SA to 1/4″, my fav for seams I plan to zip through the serger and probably won’t need for fitting adjustments. Left the neckline at 3/8″. Then I walked the seams. I was stunned at how off the side panel to front/back seams had become.I pinned the side seams together at the notches and then smoothed to either end.
I don’t get excited about 1/8″ or less differences. That’s a matter of a slightly astray pen or cutting blade. The biggest difference was from the bottom notches to hem on all body pieces; and while more significant in my added 1″ it was also plainly different along the traced pattern lines.
OK, there’s still the possibility that the tissue shifted during tracing. I usually catch any shifting. To be off 1/4″ and more due to shifting is just beyond my belief. I never get that far off. But, I didn’t go back and walk the original pattern. So I can’t swear 100% it isn’t all me.
While I was working with tissue, I made a change to the sleeve which gives me 3 sleeve finish options.
I added 4.5″ at the sleeve hem. I can still fold it up and use at the drafted default along with the separate cuff; or I can cut 5″ longer and fold up for a cut-on hem. 3rd option, and the one I’m using today, is folding the extension along the 2-1/4″ line and finishing the sleeve with FOE.
I realized at the first fitting that the sleeve was too long for a foe finish. I made a 1/2″ deep tuck on the inside (and changed the line on the tissue)
which on the public side looks like a seam for the cuff.
I also finished the neckline by leaving off the band and applying FOE.
I should mention that during construction I left the back seam open at the top about 3″. After I applied the FOE, I glued the very top edge together and then stitched the seam closed. I glue because that’s the only way I can align and keep aligned both ends of the FOE or other elastic. I don’t like particularly like the neckline application. It was applied at a 1:1 ration and is not hugging the neck as well as I like.
I finished the hem with the separate band, also 1:1 instead of drawn in. The hem band as drafted wants to creep upward during wear. In only minutes I have a high low with the back hem up over my butt. Possibly in the future I will extend the front, back and side pieces 2.5″ so that the hem is cut on. For now, I like the possibility of experimenting to see which circumference looks good.
My fabric is another ITY knit. Chosen for the fact it has the same 2-way stretch and 75% stretch factor as the first. I think it is the same fiber as the previous, based on how well it pressed. It has a shinier finish, so I’m not too sure. It too is a busy fabric. I think raglans emphasize my pear shape. Echo the narrowness of my shoulders. I avoided raglans for a long time before realizing there were things I could do to offset the visual effect of the raglan. Busy print is one. A busy print has your eye going everywhere instead of going to the raglan and then straight up. It’s quite likely that had I not told you this is a raglan sleeve, you wouldn’t have noticed that fact until after looking at my top for a while – if ever.
As far as fit goes, I need to add a little length to the front. Otherwise this is pretty much what I was hoping for and rarely find. The rouching has been removed by the tissue alteration I did after walking the seams. In both V1 and V2, the side diagonals completely disappear after I install my shoulder pads. In the end analysis, I’ve added 7/8″ ease and 1/8″ seam allowance; lengthened the front by 1/2″ and that is it. Everything else I’ve done or am thinking about are detail changes. I’ve never had an easier pattern to fit. And I mean that. Even when I weighed 96 pounds I had more standard tissue alterations.
I’ve no doubt that the future of this pattern will include many variations. Not just in fabric but in details as well. I don’t hesitate to change the depth of a neckline or shape from the ballerina it is to a V, scoop or square. My full length sleeve can easily be marked for a 3/4-length with various finishes like cuff, lace or notch. It would take a little more effort to change the front to a cardigan style; and a lot to change to eliminate the center back seam. (Which I might do but really I prefer seams to darts when working with knits.) I almost wish this pattern had a woven/non-stretch version. It has me that excited.