-Although I use the T-shirt pattern the most, it isn’t just the T which will need refitting. I use my blouse version second most and occasionally make the jacket. Despite no longer wearing many jackets, I decide to start with refitting the jacket because the changes to this pattern will be applied to the blouse and Tee patterns. The blouse and Tee patterns will need a few extra changes.
I check the booklet for sizing. As expected, my butt will no longer be easily covered by a large. I need the XL. I trace sleeve, A-B front, back and side panel. I use the straight side panel the most but occasionally I do use the flared side. Rather than trace both straight and flared, I make the side panel do double duty in that I trace the flared but draw fold lines in the interior to indicate the side seams of the of the straight side panel. At this oint I made only 2 tissue alterations, my 5/8″ shoulder slope and 5/8″ round back alterations.
The stash fabric I’ve chosen is more of a medium weight, blouse type fabric. I’ve found the oversized blouse or a light-weight jacket to be tremendously valuable in my wardrobe. I use these garments mostly to kill-the-chill which can occur inside during the winter but also takes place in any air-conditioned space (think freezer section of the grocery store, restaurants, etc.) From time to time, I want a coordinating 3rd layer but no extra warmth. Again, the oversized blouse/light-weight jacket is just the ticket. My chosen blouse-type fabric is perfect for the above uses. No idea what is happening to my fabric tags. I know I bought it last year. Can’t remember where. Also, fiber content is dubious. Might be a little poly mixed with the cotton because the fabric doesn’t wrinkle. It crushes but bounces back. A lot. Like 95% recovery. Interesting weave which may be the real reason fro excellent recovery.. There are all kinds of free ends on the inside.
I’m not familiar with it. I’m presuming some kind of woven jacquard in which the floats are secured and trimmed on the inside to prevent snags.
I lightly pressed my fabric, laid out the newly trace pattern tissues and cut the pieces. I’m sure I’ve mentioned this before but once you work through the assembly process once, the Tabula Rasa jacket and T almost assemble themselves. I serge finish the edges and stitch the pieces together but I leave it unhemmed and the front band off. I remember the jacket pattern as being phenomenally easy to fit but expected to make some changes.
After adding the 1/2″ shoulder pads (it is a soft jacket), I slipped it on and paraded in front the full length mirror. My, how pleased I was. The shoulders may be a little too wide but this is intended as a jacket so I won’t change them. I will allow the shoulder pad to do its work. The sleeves are about 1″ too long which reinforces my observation that the shoulder is too wide. With any of the Big-4 patterns I always immediately add a 1″ narrow-shoulder adjustment which brings the sleeve 1″ further up on the arm. Well, I do it for the other patterns too, it is just that I check them with my block and fix the shoulder by tracing my block onto the new pattern. I haven’t even pulled out my block to refit the TRJ. For now, I will hem the sleeve 2″ but alter the pattern for future ‘jackets’
An alteration I forgot to make was shortening the sleeve cap to correspond with the 5/8″ shoulder slope alteration. I had to ease the sleeve into place. Looks OK so that will be another alteration for future jackets.
I added big facings..
…because I had the fabric and even though this is an unstructured garment, a little it of body won’t hurt.
Without the front band, I see an unbuttoned, cardigan-style garment. I considered just binding the neckline/center front edge except this is a fitting exercise. A fitting exercise reveals all the fitting issues including unneeded or too large bands. Instead of tracing the band pattern piece, I measured it. I find it easier to slap a long ruler on top of the fabric to cut those long skinny pieces or for that matter any rectangular piece. I cut a 4.25″ by 34″ band on the fold. Otherwise I would have cut 2 of the same sized bands. It will be interfaced and applied when the hems are complete. I was fascinated by the shape of the chosen button
Getting a button that echoed the flavor of the fabric was irresistible. So even though the button color does not match exactly, I’m using it.
Band and facings are interfaced. The rest of the jacket is left, soft; unstructured.
I expected the jacket to bee too long. I was surprised that the bust dart is too low. I rarely need my tops shortened across the upper bust. The dart doesn’t make a dramatic showing, so I will just change my tissue for future jackets. But I didn’t expect the jacket to hang down to mid thigh. Doesn’t look bad which surprises me. I like my blouses no longer than 26″ (jackets 27″) because any longer and I look like I’m playing dress-up with in my mom’s clothes. I may be wrong, but for now, I’m hemming this jacket 2″. Will evaluate over-all length in the final pics and make appropriate changes.
I think I may be adding a new alteration–sometime in the future.
I’ve noticed the above happening more frequently the result, I think, of posture changes due the last challenging year. The back seems to be pulling up even though I’ve added my 5/8″ RBA. At the neck it tends to creep up and even add dimples, depending upon fabric. The hem is higher in front than back. Is the back creeping up causing the front to hang lower? I’ve already done a substantial RBA. It isn’t sway-back (see back pic above.) Wonder which alteration I’m going to need?
- 5/8 RBA
- 5/8 Shoulder Slope
- 5/8″ tuck across sleeve cap
- -1″ Sleeve length
- 1/2″ raise dart.
- -1″ Bodice Length
all the above plus
- 1″ narrow shoulder alteration
- Shoulder will need to be 1/8″ deeper (for 3/8″ vs 1/2″ shoulder pads)