Category Archives: ConnieCrawford

Connie Crawford 0456, Refitting

I was rather disappointed in my last Connie Crawford 0456.  The princess bodice pieces eased together but the side was almost gathered to fit the center front piece. Many of the pieces seemed to be just 1/8″ off when sewing together.  Also the skirt portion sort of stuck out rather than falling close to my body.  The last was probably a fabric issue and yes the pieces may not match up exactly due to my handling, but it is rare for so many to be off and for a piece to be unintentionally gathered to fit.  I determined to put that to right.

I started back at ground zero. OK, not that at all because I actually started intended to walk seam lines of the pattern pieces. Imagine my surprise when I realized I was not using 0456 but instead used the sleeved version of 5967 to make a sleeveless garment. There are a few other subtle differences between the two pattern. Most obvious difference is the front hem. But they are pretty much carbon copies modified to be sleeveless and fully sleeved.

I paused when I realized I had used 5967 instead of 0456.  Partly I was wanting to get this done so that when I started sewing sleeveless garments next year, I could feel secure in using 0456.  Since that was my intention, I put 5967 away with the promise to walk its seams upon first use and worked on 0456.  I was rather amazed to find that it too was off 1/8″ in several places and 1/4″ in one place. I corrected and retrued all the pieces and then wanted to make a quick garment to test all my changes.

I chose a poly crepe with a big paisley and leopard (?)  print which were harmonized together through the use of cream, coral and blue inks.  This fabric crawls like the dickens but is wonderful to wear. I spray starched it 4 times before discovering the remaining Terial spray and used that.  Consequently the fabric was quite stiff which made for easy cutting and sewing.  I finished my armscyes and neck with bias tape and a front facing.  The hem was serge finished and turned up twice.  During stitching I discovered a few more issues one being that the side front and center front lined up and stitched nicely but when pressed into place left a gap.  Far better to have a little excess during lining up the pieces for stitching and so I added another 3/8″ to the end of the side front armscye. The front facing was too wide. It wanted to hang over my armscye and be unsightly.  I trimmed first the fabric, then the pattern piece.

I am pretty happy with the result. Although a few things bother . I am just not sure these are due to fabric, to starch or something I did during construction. Probably won’t know until after the first wash which is the cause of the oddness at the center front above the hem and the wavy back waistline.

But you know, I really don’t think it’s a problem.

I walked the seams and fixed the obvious errors.  Think I’m just going to enjoy this blouse. Doubt anyone besides me notices the issues anyway.

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5967 Sweet Pink Swirls

I’ve noted that I need to replace my original and 2nd  Connie Crawford 0456 as well as 3 versions of 6299 all constructed in 2017 which were made with cotton or rayon.  I am particularly fond of that 0456..

…because it was the first blouse/top pattern I was able to completely fit after a long, long, long haul of just not rights.

Connie Crawford’s 0456

continues to be one of my favorites, although I have only 2 in the closet now. Without sleeves, it is definitely a summer pattern. (I use Connie Crawfords 5967 when I want the same bodice seaming with sleeves.)

Alas, those 2 0456’s are on their last legs. Probably won’t even make it to storage. So first replacement is a cotton in bubble gum pink with white swirls

Sadly this is not one of the wonderful Japanese cottons that I rarely get my hands on.  I also spray starched a few times, which didn’t help either. However there is no sense in even hoping this sweet pink will ever drape like those or the various poly’s and rayon’s I’ve used this same pattern to construct.

Still I like the cheerful color and it is certainly a needed replacement.

A mini Wardrobe

When I trotted upstairs with my new blouse, I realized it worked beautifully with my recently drafted and sewn skirt…


… and the yellow blouse, also recently completed

I had envisioned the blouse as a fall-garment. Standing there in the closet and looking for a 3rd layer, I couldn’t help but think it was perfect!

As I looked further I realized , the corded pants

… completed August 2 and also for as a fall garment would work well and extend the wear of the Rose Print Blouse into fall, a time when you started the day with a 3rd layer (The Yellow Blouse) and  finish sleeveless (the Rose Print Blouse).

Although I confess, when making the Rose Print Blouse, I was thinking of the skirt and maybe the shorts embroidered at the end of July….

… which look quite nice with the Rose Print blouse as well.

 

I am sure there are other item in my closet that will work nicely. I do tend to stick with the same range of colors, wide though that may be.  Still, it continually surprises me to find that so many items work together.

6299: Rose Print

South Dakota, my “neck of the woods”, is rapidly approaching the end of summer. By the time this post is published, we may indeed be into Fall and I will need to put the summer wear away. But a few weeks ago, I started noticing that several of my summer items were near their  end. They’d really started losing their eye-appeal even though I’m personally fond.  I do see that my ITY’s, poly knits, seersucker, twill and denim seem to last many seasons. Often I must change sizes before I need to discard these hardy fibers.  But my beloved rayons (both knit and chalis woven) and cottons, Oh and the rare silks I acquire, usually need to be discarded at the end of 1 or 2 years (and they are worn for maybe 3-4 months each year). When I put the summer wear away this year I will be discarding  4 blouses that are ratty and possibly another 3 that I just don’t like the top all that well. (OK it’s possible the last 3 will be stored just in case I don’t get the sewing done I’d like before next summer).

Before I get to the point of tossing or storage, I’ve started making new.  My first is a lovely rose print purchased from the Walmart tables at least 15 years ago.

I think it may have been a Home Dec/upholstery fabric which I don’t let bother me. I look at the fabric; feel the drape and weight. Originally I had thought this would make a beautiful jacket (I liked y work jackets to be special.). Never go around to making it for work. About a year or so after retirement I realized I would not be wearing jackets as much as during my working years. This fabric languished.  No sewn because I didn’t want a jacket. Not donated because I loved the print. I folded it. Shuffled around on the shelves. Moved between categories (tops, colors, muslins even). Always, it stayed on the shelf. Mostly cotton, maybe a little poly but not much. It does wrinkle and until I wear it once or twice, I just won’t know how much it wrinkles.

The blouse I am replacing

was constructed from a lovely cotton remnant (another fabric I could not bear to just discard) and  Connie’s original 8- piece draft of 6299

Eight pieces: is front, side-front, back, side back and lower skirt pieces for each. I shortened it to top length because I wear more tops than dresses.  I loved fitting it. Can you believe that? I loved fitting 6299. I had already fit Connie Crawford 0456 discovering that  with the seam in the right place (armscye princess) fitting was limited to adding a 5/8″  Round Back alteration (RBA) and tweaking the armscye seams both front and back . OMG! I hadn’t had such an easy time fitting in years. YEARS I tell you, just years. AND THEN fitting 6299 was even faster.  What should have been a muslin, became wearable. I truly wish I had finished this first 6299 better because it might be wearable another year or two were it not for the raveling of seams and tapes.

Moving on…. This was a 3-hour blouse. Mostly serger sewing with bias-tape finished neckline and armscyes. I machine hemmed using the blind stitch of my Brother Dream Machine (no I’m not buying the new XP unless I hit the lotto).

I can see from the side photos that I may need to tweak a little more

The right shoulder, my lower one, has a swoop from back, under the arm and back up under the bust. That’s not visible on the left, but I am saw folds in the back indicating too much ease. Until I looked at the back straight-on and it’s rather nice. So maybe just the way I was standing?

I am still thrilled with 6299. It is a regular in my wardrobe but you would be hard pressed at times to say it was the same pattern. have made so many variations including a button front, collars, joined upper and lower piece, multiple neckline changes and sleeves. Yes! I add a sleeve using armscye template and sleeve. It has become a wonderfully versatile pattern.

Mashup: 5967 & Ebb

ETA: Fixing a lot of little errors that neither I nor the spelling checker caught.

You all know Louise Cuttings Ebb has been my fav forever?

Like as soon as it was issued, I had to have it. Stopped my other sewing and made my first Ebb immediately. But since my shape changed 2 years ago, I’ve not been able to fit the pattern. Oh, I get enough circumference, but I also get deep V drag lines on the side and the empire rises sharply towards center front. Something is off and I don’t know what. Other than, I didn’t have the problem before. I made a number of beautiful Ebb’s before 2 years ago.  Well let’s move along.

I dearly love this style and keep trying to create a pattern at least close to its styling. After my success with Connie Crawford’s 5967, I wondered about a mash-up. I started by copying the Ebb pattern. I compared the Ebb tissue with my fitted 5967 pattern pieces and selected a Medium. At the time, I thought that was slightly off. Usually I’m a large or X-large. When I’m a medium it is because I’m trying to use a pattern for wovens with a knit fabric. But I proceeded ( and regretted it much later).

I immediately added a 5/8″ RBA and 1/4″ center back seam. I did consider rotating the dart to the shoulders but I have to think the process through every time. It is not something  I can whip through. Decided rotating could wait for another version. I also made a 1″BWL.  I have always needed to shorten the Ebb at least 1″ to bring the subtle waist and hip shaping in line with my own. I made one other change to the back, because it has been working for me:

I drew a line on the back which would correspond to the seam which would be created by an armscye princess. I cut all the way to the edge, but left a hinge. Then rotated the side seam edge inward 3/8″. I had to fill in the a little gap which occurs in the armscye and true the armscye curve.

I did not change the shoulder slope of either front or back because when I aligned the pattern pieces, the slopes were alike.

On the front, upper bodice, I laid out my pattern pieces from 5967

I really worked at lining up the grain and the match point/notches across the bust. This may be a little more understandable with the final pieces trimmed from the excess.

(click to enlarge any pic)

I noted that the shoulder had moved closer to my neck and was 1″ shorter than the Ebb’s shoulder. I reasoned that the 1″ difference in length didn’t matter because I always narrow the shoulders about 1″.  Since I wanted a princess seam, I needed to push the side front over and then add 1/2″ at the side to compensate for the now-needed, seam allowances.  I finished by folding the front along the fold line and trimming the facing to match the rest of the bodice.  I made the 1″ BWL to the skirt portion of the front. No pics of that.

This is one that I started by serge finishing all the edges. The pieces are visually different from both the Ebb which does not fit and 5967 which does. Enough difference that I feel uncomfortable with my changes. So I serge finished all pieces and then serged the side bodice to the bodice front. I stitched shoulder seams together before swapping out the bobbin for water-soluble thread and basting the empire seam and side seams. I ignored the sleeves for now. I have to tell you, the first fitting was close to being perfect.  My biggest complaint is the bust dart (forming in the front armscye) which is begging to be stitched

No I didn’t sew the dart, I trimmed about 1/2″ off the side seam.  My bodice tops often have interesting side seams as they tilt inwards at the underarm. I’m just narrow there.

2nd but not critical issue is that I think it is too long. The proportion seems a little off.   I trimmed 1″ from the bottom of at the hem of the fabric but on the pattern I increased the BWL to 2″ . Which takes care of a 3rd and maybe unimportant issue, I felt that the blouse was a little tight across the butt, even though it looks fine. Which suggests to me that the shaping is just a little low.

I also took a close look at the shoulders

The serge-finished edge is just barely reaching the edge of my shoulder. The Ebb shoulder illustration  clearly indicates a slightly dropped shoulder and the sleeve pattern has a flattened cap for a dropped shoulder. I hadn’t cut the sleeve from fabric, so I whipped out the 5967 sleeve, placed it on top of the Ebb and added a little height.

Then I cut the fabric. Thinking I needed to do nothing else, I serge the sleeve to the armscye and finished the blouse including hems, buttonholes and buttons.  I should mention that while I didn’t allow for vents during planning, I stopped the side seam stitched 8″ above the hem edge and finished with side vents.

I did have to ease the sleeve to the armscye. Ran a little basting line and pulled up the excess. That’s something I will think about fixing for the next version. The sleeve looks and feels good.

Oh forgot to mention that I had added 1/2″ to the side seams in the tissue stage.  Just couldn’t get over the feeling that a medium would be too small.  Turns out I was right. I stitched the side seams at 1/4″ which means I needed the large at least at the hip.  Um, that’s another tweak I’ll need to make to the pattern before the next version.

Love the right side view (above) and the front view

DH commented on how good it looked even in the pics from the fitting. I’m perplexed a little by the back which looked better at fitting

Finished (left) Fitting (right).  Also thought the left side looked fine during fitting but there are  extra front  drag lines in the finished blouse.

Finished (left) Fitting (right).

I love the final blouse. Can see more versions of this in the future.

 

 

B5967, Sewing and Fitting

I almost made one other change at cutting.  I almost cut the front bodice and flounce on the fold. I want to get to the fitting as soon as possible and truthfully, I didn’t want to hassle with buttonholes and a knit. But then I realized part of the charm of this pattern is the front button placket and buttons. Besides, I know how to handle buttonholes on a knit (wrap the stitching area with WSS), I’m just in a hurry.  So I cut the fabric pretty much the same as for V1 of course with all the fitting changes, empire line adjustments and the new Ebb-Style sleeve. Stitching at this point was pretty standard to me; assemble princess seam then flounce to upper bodice; sew dart then flounce to upper back bodice; serge shoulders.  I stitched the right shoulder 1/4″ deeper than the left to accommodate some body asymmetry and then swapped out the bobbin for some WST before basting the sides seams for fitting. I wasn’t terribly surprised that the armscyes were too long but I was surprised at how much too long. I was surprised that I still had too much circumference.  I deepened both the shoulder and side seams to 1″ before checking the fit again in the mirror. Then I added safety pins along the flounce seam line. This busy print that selected especially because busy prints camo lots of issues, made it impossible for me to see the seam line. After pics, I hurried upstairs to make an evaluation.

The back is not terribly bad but I can see that instead of increasing the side seams I should have taken a CB seam.  I know that because the armscyes are practically covering my arm. They definitely will need reshaping some how. I didn’t realize the upper and lower back were making that repeat!.  I wish I’d looked more carefully during cutting.

I’d say the front was ok except for managing to include the selvage when cutting the front flounces and the fact that the empire line is clearly curving upward. It might just be this fabric, this color, this print, but the undulating curve is more obvious in V2 than the previous. First thought was to shorten the upper bodice and true that line a bit more but then I saw the side views.

Right
Left

If you can, enlarge the pics to see the lines more clearly. Look at the shoulder first. The shoulder seam is not sitting square. It is angling and slightly on the back instead of balanced between front and back. How much is that pulling up the hem and empire? Also, how much is that changing the few side pull lines.  The right side, the one already adjusted for being lower has more pull lines than the left; and the lines are on both front and back.The left has only a few lines under the bust which I think indicates I need a little more ease.

And let’s talk about that “Empire Line” a sec. I assume it was an empire which can be situated anywhere between directly under the bust to mid ribcage. Certainly the envelope pic’s indicate an empire, but once I attempted leveling the line, it has become more of a high waist. Because of the flounce, I think it looks fine. Just that it wasn’t what I was thinking. Id say Connie combined a waistline with empire line by curving across the side and up to the front empire. It would be the best of 2 flattering lines; 1) the back waist line running across the narrowest part of the body and 2) the front empire line which many larger women want because it is more comfortable for them to wear. Nice choice Connie. Too bad I didn’t like the way it looks on me.

Back to the SM….or rather the cutting board.  I serged the shoulders at the newly basted shoulder seam line; stitched a center back seam 1/2″ deep and trimmed 1/2″ off the center front. Effectively I changed the shoulder seam but moved the fitting changes from the side seams to the center front/back. Then I looked at the Empire/waist.  This is a time when I could really use a fitting partner.  I tried comparing pattern pieces again. This time digging out Connie’s 0456 which is similar to 5967. 0456 was drafted for a vest and the flounce is an A-line skirt. But I tell you, I learned no more from this comparison than I already knew from the previous comparisons.  Back up to the pics to carefully stare and draw another line, this one horizontal to the front upswing of the Empire:

Staring at it until I was cross-eyed, I decided that the upswing begins just past the side-front princess seam; if it travels very horizontally, by the time it reaches the side seam, the waist is an inch lower than the beginning point and, I think , 1.25″ lower at the CB. So that’s what I tried next.  I trimmed a wedge across the bottom of the bodice (not the flounces) beginning at the princess seam (0), 1″ at the side seams 1.25″ at the center back.  I had not cut the sleeve yet, so I made a few changes to the sleeve hoping to reduce the impact of sewing shoulder seams deeper.  I reduced the cap by the 1/2″ removed at the shoulders; and took another 1/4″ from the circumference. Then I stitched  the blouse together including the sleeves, neckline and front facing  but without hemming.

Not spot on. I am in fact glad that I used a fabric that I like enough to wear even if it has a mistake, but not so nice I would be disappointed in having a mistake.

The sides are pretty good. Even when drawing a straight line along the waist:

Also note that the under bust drag lines are reduced and the single V that was trying to form on the right side is no more.

The front is nice. I finished the neckline with white, picot elastic. I love the way the picot elastic adds a little extra feminine touch. I also agree with Peggy Sagers, that having a “Stop line” at the neck enhances the over all appearance of a blouse or dress. Not sure why, but having a resting point for the eyes makes it look complete. The back is where I made the final goof

It is raising slightly and raising more than 1/4″. Also there seems to be more flouncing across the back than front or sides.  Thankfully, my style and fitting changes also repositioned the fabric print removing that duplicate image on the back which I thought distracting.

I haven’t hemmed at this point. Not sure if I’m going to. I’m afraid hemming would make my blouse too short.  Even now, it looks just a tiny bit unproportioned.

I”m thinking of morphing this pattern into the above waist version as above and then make a second for a true empire which I think is about 2.5-3″ higher.  Then of course I would want a knit version and a woven version. Why would I want both versions?  Well I really like both the woven  blouse and this knit blouse. To fit the this knit version, I make some pretty big changes to the woven tissue. I don’t want to try to remember all those changes, or make them all over again when I use a knit fabric.

So that’s it for a few days. Roomba has decided it is time for me to work on the cleaning up the Stash Room. Yes, he vacuumed up a corner/string of fabric and ended up pulling off most of the fabrics on one of my bottom shelves.  I had planned to refold and restack the shelves as part of the Sept Deep Cleaning. Guess I’ll get started with that now.  It’s a several day project which will preclude any sewing or blogging.

 

B5967 V2

It took me longer than expected to make what I thought would be a minor change to the empire line (that of removing the obvious upward curve at CB and CF).  And I didn’t use the fabric originally selected either. That beauty still awaits.

I started by carefully examining the original pattern i.e. not my traced and already altered pieces. I had wondered if a serger problem had contributed to the undulating empire line

I should also clarify that the serger was not at fault. I wanted to use the differential feed when joining the 2 pieces of the front princess seam. Using that feed requires adapting about 3 settings and when finished returning those settings to the default.  I neglected to return all 3 settings and unknowingly changed a knife setting as well. It took me several tries to figure out what was wrong. The serger was fine all the time. It was doing what I asked even if not what I wanted. —

I found that Connie had drafted beautiful elegant curves at the empire and again at the flounce hem. I don’t want you to think I’m suggesting Connie made a drafting error. I watched Connie’s retail pattern drafting career almost from the start.  I know that she was targeting the plus size market wanting to offer well-drafted patterns in larger sizes that were also fashionable, followed current trends and were flattering to the plus-sized wearer. She was so successful that non-plus sized ladies (and not her target market) began asking that the patterns be printed in regular misses sizes.  So when I look at these elegant curves, I know they are deliberate.  My issue is not with her draft but rather  I  think that particular undulating line emphasizes my tummy.  I’d much prefer to minimize and detract attention from my tummy.

I also had wondered about the hi-lo hem which was lower in the front. It was drafted that way. Not only was it drafted to be lower in front, the flounces are not an equal width across either flounce.    ‘Course, I have no idea what her thinking was back in 2012/13 (pattern is copyrighted 2013), but I knew I wanted to level the empire line and shorten the CF length when I started Version 2. As I examined the pattern pieces I realized I had a 3rd objective that of making the flounces an equal depth; equal across each flounce and to each other.

I transferred my fitting adjustments to my copy of the pattern and started looking at the undulating empire line. I was just unsure how to change it.  I had assumed I would simply slash some length off  the sides. Now I didn’t know; and worse, I didn’t know how much I wanted to change. Oh I knew I wanted to make them equal, but how much change would be needed. I tried to line them up next to each but that didn’t work well. I couldn’t just ‘see’ what to do.  I had a brain-phart and pulled out my beloved Ebb to compare the pieces with. Why? Why did I choose a pattern that I haven’t been able to fit in 2+ years?  Why did I choose a pattern that didn’t have the armscye princess seams?  Not even the empire depths are the same. I was asking myself how to align the 2 B5967 princess seam  pieces first to each other

and then to the Ebb

Finally sort of satisfied, more like not sure how else to align, I slipped a scrap of tissue beneath the aligned pattern pieces.

extended vertical seam lines. drew a level empire line and trimmed the excess tissue.

I repeated the action on the back piece (no princess seam on the back)  and put things away for the night. Frankly, I didn’t think I was anywhere near a correct solution and did nothing with the flounces. It did not feel right P-E-R-I-O-D.

That evening I was looking at the eye candy on the Lekala site and realized Lekala had the equivalent of B6299. Which was a head-slapping, could-have-had-a-V8 moment. When I started the next day, I pulled out my fitted pattern pieces to B6299 and made the same comparison. Except, it was much faster. Oh yes I probably  benefited from the experience of comparing with the Ebb, but now comparing very similar patterns. with very similar pattern pieces, my conclusions were drawn much faster and I’m more comfortable with them.  About the sleeve

I applied my alterations first (removing excess cap length and sleeve length using tucks in appropriate places); then I copied the Ebb sleeve. I like that sleeve and wanted to use it.  I silently praised Peggy Sagers as I first traced the Ebb, then placing the first 5967 sleeve on top, I traced the cap.  I was also comparing circumference and length. Confident the new sleeve would work, I set it aside and turned my attention to the flounces.

Have to praise my curve runner as well. This little tool has more than worth the money I paid for it. I measured the width of my altered empire lines, subtracted seam allowances as needed and then measured the flounce on the seam that joins the empire line. I added but 1/4″ circumference to each flounce. Again, it was great to know that I had a logical process. Made me feel so confident.  Then I measured the length of the back flounce.  Using my ruler, I made tick marks 9.5″ evenly away from the  flounce’s waist/empire and then sketched in a new hem curve before trimming the excess tissue.  Mostly, I added length to the back and sides, but removed some from the center front.

Sadly, I’m not 100% sure that the flounces are right. I know that my changes to the flounces did not account for the changes at the upper bodice empire line. But since my flounces  are now a standard shape, I  think I have a good chance at being right. Besides, I really wanted to test all (fitting and empire line) the changes I made; especially  the fitting alteration I made to the back.

During fitting, I  let out the side seams to ensure that the empire would not feel close during wear. So I needed to add circumference and did so by adding a 1/2″ wedge to the bottom at the CB empire line. To remove the side V’s/drag lines discovered on the garment during fitting, I made a dart  which the public side looks like I have back as well as a front princess armscye seams.  On the pattern, I drew and cut along a princess looking line (drawn by me  with my curve) and overlapped by the depth of the dart (3/8″ total removed 3/4″). I am especially hoping this works. If it does, I have just made it possible for me to use a whole lot of patterns; patterns without back princess seams, or yokes, or darts. But….. I  keep thinking of Gale Gregg Hazen (hope I spelled her names right) who said that curvy bodies need curvy lines and they need to correspond between pattern and body (i.e. you can’t change at the hem if the problem is the shoulder or change the CB when the issue is at CF etc.)

I finished in a frame of mind that said 51% changes will work; 49% chance they won’t; 100% I’ll need to make further adaptations. I absolutely did not want to use the fabric I had selected the day before. This felt too much like a test with uncertain results. I want that fabric to end up proudly in my closet. So I hunted for another fabric. I wanted something busy, because busy prints can camo a lot of error. Couldn’t find a non-stretch woven I was willing to sacrifice so instead I chose an ITY knit. OK, this is one of those issues where I disagree with Peggy Sagers. She says the only pattern difference between stretch and non-stretch fabrics is circumference which can be corrected at the seams during fitting.  For one thing, I’m not using a Silhouette Pattern.  I’m using someone else’s pattern. I already know there are important differences between the two pattern lines because I don’t worry about the position of the waist when working with a SP blouse. Peggy uses a wide waist zone that works nicely for me. Not so with Connie Crawford’s designs. Also I’ve made lots of changes to this pattern.Not even the pattern’s designer  would be totally unconcerned after all I’ve done.   I know from experience, that  I can use a stable knit and make fitting changes during fitting; if it’s a slinky knit and I don’t make changes I’m going to throw the thing in the trash. Since I’ve selected an ITY with 50% stretch, my experience is that I need to remove 1/4″ circumference from back and front pieces and most likely the sleeve too. I find, too that the armscyes will be too long and the waist/hip too low.  Usually I would stitch a very narrow like 1/16″ tuck across the bodice in the armscye and again just above the waist.  I know it seems like not much. I can only assure you that usually enough to make me happy with the test garment. Happy enough to wear it daily.  This time, I’ve made so many changes, I’m reluctant to tweak the armscye. So last thing I did before turning out the lights, was taking a 1/8″ tuck vertically in the back and front bodice pieces and the sleeve.

Whew! Way too many words. I was anxious to document my process in case I needed to do it again in the future. Tomorrow should be a short post about sewing and final fitting. I hope.