ETA: Fixing a lot of little errors that neither I nor the spelling checker caught.
You all know Louise Cuttings Ebb has been my fav forever?
Like as soon as it was issued, I had to have it. Stopped my other sewing and made my first Ebb immediately. But since my shape changed 2 years ago, I’ve not been able to fit the pattern. Oh, I get enough circumference, but I also get deep V drag lines on the side and the empire rises sharply towards center front. Something is off and I don’t know what. Other than, I didn’t have the problem before. I made a number of beautiful Ebb’s before 2 years ago. Well let’s move along.
I dearly love this style and keep trying to create a pattern at least close to its styling. After my success with Connie Crawford’s 5967, I wondered about a mash-up. I started by copying the Ebb pattern. I compared the Ebb tissue with my fitted 5967 pattern pieces and selected a Medium. At the time, I thought that was slightly off. Usually I’m a large or X-large. When I’m a medium it is because I’m trying to use a pattern for wovens with a knit fabric. But I proceeded ( and regretted it much later).
I immediately added a 5/8″ RBA and 1/4″ center back seam. I did consider rotating the dart to the shoulders but I have to think the process through every time. It is not something I can whip through. Decided rotating could wait for another version. I also made a 1″BWL. I have always needed to shorten the Ebb at least 1″ to bring the subtle waist and hip shaping in line with my own. I made one other change to the back, because it has been working for me:
I drew a line on the back which would correspond to the seam which would be created by an armscye princess. I cut all the way to the edge, but left a hinge. Then rotated the side seam edge inward 3/8″. I had to fill in the a little gap which occurs in the armscye and true the armscye curve.
I did not change the shoulder slope of either front or back because when I aligned the pattern pieces, the slopes were alike.
On the front, upper bodice, I laid out my pattern pieces from 5967
I really worked at lining up the grain and the match point/notches across the bust. This may be a little more understandable with the final pieces trimmed from the excess.
(click to enlarge any pic)
I noted that the shoulder had moved closer to my neck and was 1″ shorter than the Ebb’s shoulder. I reasoned that the 1″ difference in length didn’t matter because I always narrow the shoulders about 1″. Since I wanted a princess seam, I needed to push the side front over and then add 1/2″ at the side to compensate for the now-needed, seam allowances. I finished by folding the front along the fold line and trimming the facing to match the rest of the bodice. I made the 1″ BWL to the skirt portion of the front. No pics of that.
This is one that I started by serge finishing all the edges. The pieces are visually different from both the Ebb which does not fit and 5967 which does. Enough difference that I feel uncomfortable with my changes. So I serge finished all pieces and then serged the side bodice to the bodice front. I stitched shoulder seams together before swapping out the bobbin for water-soluble thread and basting the empire seam and side seams. I ignored the sleeves for now. I have to tell you, the first fitting was close to being perfect. My biggest complaint is the bust dart (forming in the front armscye) which is begging to be stitched
No I didn’t sew the dart, I trimmed about 1/2″ off the side seam. My bodice tops often have interesting side seams as they tilt inwards at the underarm. I’m just narrow there.
2nd but not critical issue is that I think it is too long. The proportion seems a little off. I trimmed 1″ from the bottom of at the hem of the fabric but on the pattern I increased the BWL to 2″ . Which takes care of a 3rd and maybe unimportant issue, I felt that the blouse was a little tight across the butt, even though it looks fine. Which suggests to me that the shaping is just a little low.
I also took a close look at the shoulders
The serge-finished edge is just barely reaching the edge of my shoulder. The Ebb shoulder illustration clearly indicates a slightly dropped shoulder and the sleeve pattern has a flattened cap for a dropped shoulder. I hadn’t cut the sleeve from fabric, so I whipped out the 5967 sleeve, placed it on top of the Ebb and added a little height.
Then I cut the fabric. Thinking I needed to do nothing else, I serge the sleeve to the armscye and finished the blouse including hems, buttonholes and buttons. I should mention that while I didn’t allow for vents during planning, I stopped the side seam stitched 8″ above the hem edge and finished with side vents.
I did have to ease the sleeve to the armscye. Ran a little basting line and pulled up the excess. That’s something I will think about fixing for the next version. The sleeve looks and feels good.
Oh forgot to mention that I had added 1/2″ to the side seams in the tissue stage. Just couldn’t get over the feeling that a medium would be too small. Turns out I was right. I stitched the side seams at 1/4″ which means I needed the large at least at the hip. Um, that’s another tweak I’ll need to make to the pattern before the next version.
Love the right side view (above) and the front view
DH commented on how good it looked even in the pics from the fitting. I’m perplexed a little by the back which looked better at fitting
Finished (left) Fitting (right). Also thought the left side looked fine during fitting but there are extra front drag lines in the finished blouse.
Finished (left) Fitting (right).
I love the final blouse. Can see more versions of this in the future.