Category Archives: TabulaRasaT

An Easy Sew

which I really needed after the fitting disasters and the easy update that went wrong (I ripped a hole while I was trying to remove the surplice layer); oh and the T that looks so terrible I’m still considering fixes.

I think I understand why there are more quilters than dressmakers in the U.S.  It is because you do everything right, even make a mistake or two and your quilt will still work as a quilt. But with dressmaking you can do everything right, technically, and still have an unwearable garment. Am I right?

So I I needed this easy sew and chose an interesting cotton, jersey, print fabric paired with the beautifully fitting Tabula Rasa T.

Unfortunately, I don’t have it sitting on my body correctly and there are a few pull lines in the pic that disappear with a quick smoothing of the fabric.

The real surprise however is how well it looks with the previously sewn Tabula Rasa Blouse:

I like it so well that I’ve decided to replace the aforementioned “Print Tee that looks so bad on me I don’t know how to fix”.

But what I”m sure you’re all wondering about is that line of safety pins.

Well, I’m wondering, since I can’t fit the Ebb can I add an Empire line to the TRT?

I drew a straight line, in pencil, across the pattern and then replicated it on the private side of my blouse. Of course when sewn and slid over my head, the line is not visible. I opted to replicate the line with  a series of pins across the front.  What it tells me is that despite having adding 1″ more length to the front of the pattern, the empire line cannot be placed perpendicular to the center front/grain line. The empire will rise at the CF.

When I pursue this empire idea, I will adapt the pattern accordingly.

Spring T: Blue T

For my 3rd Top, I decided to use a poly-lycra solid-blue knit. This was the most horrible curling/furling/rolling knit-fabric I think I’ve ever worked.  It curled tightly as it was cut. Usually when that happens, I can place the curl side down on the throat plate and slide it up into the serger needles. The fabric will unfurl and the serging will keep it relatively flat. Nothing doing with this particular fabric. It curled and could not be handled into unfurling.  It was in fact this fabric which resulted in my Rolling Edges post.   After testing, I cut the fabric and painted the edges with Terial Magic. When dry, I replaced the pattern pieces and transferred markings.

I also decided to use the TRT pattern which should not be surprising since it is not only the most recently fit, it’s also been tested several times and proven.  I’ve discovered that sewing large groups of garments, like 6PAC’s and SWAP’s is best done with TNT’s.

I vacillated between sewing the TRT exactly as drafted or doing something a little different. That indecisiveness is the reason  the Blue T is next-to-last being sewn.  I considered neckline changes,  various embellishments and hem finishes. When it came time to cut fabric, I cut 2 fronts.  I had decided to make a faux surplice front. Faux because one front would be unaltered, but the other would be shaped to resemble a surplice. I prepared the surplice side first. Drawing the line using my curve; trimming excess fabric and then finishing the edge using a slightly new to me technique.  I’ve often stitched and turned that edge. The last few surplice tops, I’ve added clear elastic to stabilize the edge. This time I fed the 3/8″ elastic through the oval hole in my serger foot

I can’t claim credit for this idea.  Until someone at SG mentioned this was the way they added elastic, I’d always put it under the foot.  (Which I still would have to do for elastic wider that 1/2″).    It works really well, once the needles are sunk into the elastic. Not much effort to get the elastic through the hole and under the needles, either.  I did want to apply a little tension to the elastic along roughly the middle third of the surplice. This will be a technique I have to practice some more because…

I finished up the T except for establishing a connection on the left side. (I intended  a right-side faux-surplice crossing the body and securing on the left.) I mean I had everything done except that connection. I had hemmed. I had top stitched.  I had double top stitched. Neckline (cross-grain cut self-fabric) was attached, serged and double-top stitched.  Dang thing was done. D_O_N_E. Done!  I just needed to decide at what level to place the connection.  I pinned the connection in place and took pics.  Switched the connection up an inch, down an inch looking for the perfect place and taking pics all the while.  When I went upstairs and looked closely at my pics, all I could think is “Does anyone need a wet-nurse?  I seem to have 1 boob and a comfy tummy available.”

Obviously, I put too much tension on the elastic and gathered the surplice beyond what was needed.  I’m reluctant to rip and redo because that’s a lot of ripping. Serged elastic? Turned and double-top stitched? Yuk. I do not want to be removing that.  I’m further discouraged by looking at the sides:

I absolutely did not expect the gathering which occurred.  Is that because of the multiple layers of fabric (3 on the left) or did the Terial magic affect the seam?

Whatever caused my problem, I have 2 6PAC garments I don’t want to wear until they are fixed; or …. I could have 2 wadders and a failed 6PAC.  I definitely need a break.

2017 Spring 6 PAC: Print Tee

I might should have waited to brag about this Tee until I took a second set of pics:

I can clearly see I’ve got one shoulder pad sliding off the right shoulder towards the back while the left seems to have no shoulder pad. That’s because the pad has slid to the front. Why couldn’t I feel that?  Interestingly, even with the wonky shoulder pads, the back is hanging smoothly.

Like wise, I think the uneven hem on the right side

probably resulted from not positioning the garment, especially the shoulder pads, squarely on my shoulders.  I was preoccupied with what I thought might really be wrong and needing fixing:

My front neckline is not lying against my neckline. Oh it’s not the fabric. It is my FOE that is falling forwards.  Generally that can be blamed on not stretching the FOE enough during application. The FOE neck application also suffers with an uneven join at the shoulder.  I hate the typical neck application of leaving one shoulder unsewn and stitching around the neckline. You are suppose to finish by stitching the open shoulder closed. I know it can be done. Neatly. Perfectly. Done. I’ve seen it in RTW.  Even had a few people encourage me to keep trying. Invariably my edges will slip.  This time I had 3 pins in that sucker.  3 pins in less that 1/2″ of an FOE sandwich. I didn’t pull the pins until the needle was about to piece them. I bent pins.  The join is off by about 1/16″. Enough I can tell and be pissed.

I did a little better with the FOE sleeve hem application but I had wanted that to cup in a bit more. Oh and the joins were still slightly off.

So during the ‘photo shoot’ I was looking and wondering what corrective action I could take.  I’m thinking some darts at the front would fix the gaping.  Mirror on the sleeves and they might cup they way I want. Problem for me will be how to keep the edges of the FOE even during stitching.

For now it is what it is; which is my 2nd Tee in my Spring 6PAC.

6PAC UPDATE

Whup! Whup! 4 done; 2 to go!!!!

TRT: Slinky

I started this Tabula Rasa Tee just before receiving my Silhouette 195 pattern.  I was going to finish the TRT then start fitting 195 but I made neckline mistake. Maybe not really my mistake. The elastic I chose to finish the neck edge frayed required unpicking.  Unpicking is not a chore I look forward to ever. It was particularly distasteful now because I had stitched on black lace elastic and top stitched with black thread.   I decided to take a little break and fit 195. I anticipated 2 days. The break stretched into 2 weeks. All my thoughts were stale when I returned to finish my T.  I had chosen to test the TRT with a slinky fabric.

Wit the yellow mess I had converted and tested the back which contains a 1/2″ RBA that has been rotated to neckline darts.  The yellow mess was a loss, but I was confident that the alteration would remove all the last, back wrinkles; and it did even with this slinky

There is a little something going on underneath the left shoulder. That’s unusual but I don’t think I’m going to worry because both sides are perfect

 

The little bulge at the waist, is my belt buckle.  It might behoove me to wear a pant that does not require a belt when wearing slinky.

The sleeve is good.  It could be a little tighter and a little shorter. The lace applique (which I will share in a subsequent post) is not showing as well as I’d like.

With its FOE neckline finish, the front is equally lovely

BTW, I didn’t unpick. I trimmed the previous finish away. Smoothed the curve and then applied the FOE.

At the time I cut this fabric, I offset the front and back pieces 1/4″ from the fold.  This removed a total 1″ circumference.  When it came time to sew the side/sleeve unit to the front/back, I got cold feet. What if I had removed too much ease?  I serged those long seams then tried it on to check fit.  I was relieved to see the shoulders were too wide, the sleeve too long and the garment definitely in need of the 1/2″ seam allowances I had planned. I returned to the SM, stitched those long seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance then turned up the bottom hem and cover stitched it.  My initial change (less 1″ ease) is a success at least during fitting.  This is a fairly new fabric. Think it’s been in-stash only 3 years.  So I’m not entirely sure how this slinky will act.  Will it stretch much length wise? Continue to grow like slinkies of old?  I don’t know until I wear it for a while.  So I like this garment but the jury is still out because I won’t know how the fabric behaves until I’ve worn it at least once.

 

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  • Summary of pattern changes
    • Off set front and back 1/4″ from fold
  • Proposed changes
    • Back/Front
      • Length -1/2″
    • Sleeve
    • Length -1/2″
    • Circumference -1/2″

 

This was not well thought out..

Considering all the effort I made on the embroidery (shared yesterday), you’d think I would have put some thought into the garment for which it was intended.

I wanted to showcase the embroidered neckline recently finished and blogged. I also am curious about 2 alterations (round back alteration rotated to neckline darts; FBA)that Fit For Art recommends on their Jacket and T patterns.   Essentially I am testing these changes but I expect them to be successful. In case they weren’t I chose a recently acquired fabric that I’m not in love with. It’s OK. The yellow, asymmetrical, vertical stripe looked better on the site than in my hands.  The label says ‘rayon knit’ but in my hands it feels like an ITY.

I decide not to push the envelope and leave the back alone. My new top  will have the same center back seam as every TRT I’ve sewn. The recommended FBA is only half an FBA because it adds length by splitting horizontally through the bust dart to the center front and then spreading the two halves 1″ apart.  Usually I add 2″ in center front length but the C-D front pattern piece is already longer in front. Still I needed the full 2″ to make the front hems level with the back. Sigh, I waffled and decided to split the difference. My separation is 1.5″.  Then of course the side seam has to match, so the bust dart is redrawn much larger. Much, much larger.

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I dislike the now 3″ wide dart but I like the even hemline. Especially when compared to the hemline when I added 2″ at center front:

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The sharp curve of the my previous addition was hard to sew and join smoothly to the side panel.  I was trimming it with the serger just before hemming! It’s kind of a trade-off i.e. big frickin’ dart or wacky curve; both have a downside. If this split + big dart fixes the rising front hem line as well as my previous alteration, I would prefer using the big dart because it eliminates any difficulty at the hem. I prefer alterations that fix without creating a new issue.

My yellow stripe version will include an alteration I made after the last TRT.  Before I put the pattern away, I slashed the sleeve cap and overlapped it to remove excess ease. That excess ease had resulted from my shoulder slope change at the beginning of this adventure and should have been done at the same time.

I’m happy to report that the sleeve cap alteration seems to have worked. This rayon knit is pretty stretchy so I might still be off. The side seams stitched easily and smoothly up the sides and over the shoulder. Not sure I can ask for better.

The FBA, didn’t work quite as I wanted. My hem is still uneven:

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Yes I’m still wearing the same bras and still rotating my pics so my I appear to be vertical to the ground.

I’ve developed some new drag lines on  the front

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and an odd bust dart forming

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I’m sure I would have noticed these and the tighter sleeve even on the dark colored fabric versions.

I’ve purposefully mentioned that this is a ‘rayon fabric’ several times so far. Other than wool, I prewash all fabrics. Once prewashed, fabrics are steam pressed before cutting and seams are steam pressed flat and then open during stitching.  Just before ‘modeling’, I lightly spray-starch and steam press again. Oddly this fabric shrunk a second time when I rinsed out the water-soluble stabilizer from the embroidery. Could it have also shrunk when I steam pressed before modeling? Creates a delimma for me. Are the hem and bust issue from the FBA or from the fabric?  (Just how many wadders can I blame on fabric?)

I’m absolutely distressed at the fit over the hip:

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The green dashed line indicates what I like. Red dots how this is fitting. I can let out the CB seam 1/4″ and the side seams another 1/4″ each. I can add a total 1.5″ ease and probably make this work.

But will it shrink in the first wash? I hate to do all this work and find I can only wear this top once!

You may have noticed that the garment is unhemmed. I did not intend to create a raw edge hem. Truth is I think I ruined this when I finished the neckline.

The embroidery changed the width of the front neckline but I did not compensate for that on the back neckline. I stretched the shoulder’s to fit. Which didn’t quite.  I finished the front by butting up to the neckline edge and stitching a lace elastic;

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Trimmed the excess fabric within the neckline; turned to the private side and stitched the elastic in place.

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I thought FOE would rescue my back neckline. Alas, my application is awkward at the shoulder.

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Sure it will be OK to wear around the house and I can probably cover the error up completely by donning a vest or jacket.  But I wanted it to be perfect.  I’m experienced enough that these kind of things shouldn’t happen or at least shouldn’t be so bad.

Right now, it’s in Time Out. There’s an hours worth of work if I want to wear it. I’m still weighing the work required against a one time  wearing.

Tabula Rasa T #2

Couldn’t wait to start the next Tabula Rasa T.  The first one was so easy to fit and sew. The unusual side panel/dolmen sleeve combination results in  set-in sleeve effect but it is sewn in one long go from hem along a princess seam panel, up the garment, over the shoulder and back down another princess seam panel once again finishing at the hem. You don’t even realize you’re setting in a sleeve. It like sewing both side seams at once instead of sewing in a sleeve.

Before starting this version,  I raised the tissue neckline  2″  and added 2″ length to the center front.  I compared sleeves, just in case I’d traced the wrong size. Since I traced the size I intended, I traced the next size up for use in this new blouse. I folded out a 1/4″ dart just above the hip. I’m not sure this will remove the diagonal between shoulder-blade and hip, but I need to do something. The front will be laid out on the fold i.e. no center front seam this time. But the back still needs its center seam. Adding the dart, curved the back piece even more.

My fabric is an ITY with about 50% stretch. I was surprised when it stretched that far.  I’ve had ITY’s that were practically stable knits. Most of my ITY’s have been about 30%.  I wanted to stay in about the same stretch range because I know stretch affects fit. While most of the fit issues seemed to be solved, I still have concerns about the back right side and the sleeve.

I taped the back shoulders and front neckline. Stitched the front darts and serged the shoulder seams.  Since I didn’t really do any thing that would improve the sleeve cap, I measured the armscye between notches and cut elastic to that length (10″)  I applied the elastic the sleeve which gathered it nicely and made it easy to join with the rest of the bodice.  I serged the underarm seam at 1/4″ even though that should be a 5/8″ seam. I wanted to be sure I had enough ease.  I can restitch that seam if I need less circumference.  I hemmed the sleeve at the same time. I thought, “Why not? The first sleeve was the correct length just too tight”  Here’s hoping I didn’t make a mistake

Previous sleeve/side panel join had to be stretched greatly. I ended up using elastic to gather this seam on the first TRT.  This time, because the XL  panel was joining the XL sleeve, that seam went together smoothly. Just like what is shown on the pattern envelope.

The long seam joining sleeve unit to bodice smoothly joined together in one fell swoop on the left side. Some how the right-front sleeve- armscye  was longer. I can’t figure out why. I matched notches when sewing. I checked to see if I had incorrectly gathered the sleeve cap. Nope. Both gathered between notches and 10″ long.  The seams were smooth. I thought, well it will show up when I slip it on or in the pics. Nope. I can only wonder what caused the error. My solution was a dart in the side panel. It is unlikely to be seen.

Another issue is the position of the armscye.

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On  the envelope pic, the armscye seems to rest along the natural shoulder.  My first Tabula Rasa T, I do remember looking at the armscye/shoulder and wondering if it was just a little out there. Like 1/8″. Like maybe I stitched a 3/8″ seam instead of 1/2″. But it didn’t seem like a big deal and during wear, it seems to rest agin t in the right position.  I guess, this could be a fabric issue. But since I did notice it on my first TRT, I will correct this one and make a correction to the pattern.

Last issue  is the hem

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Front and side seam to be fairly level. However the back seems to be a little high. Did not notice that last time.  Not sure if this is today’s underwear or how the top is sitting on my shoulders or even something else.

I made two changes for Fit 2.

First, working on the side seam from side panel, up over the shoulder and back to the other side panel, I increased the seam from 1/2″ to 1″ at the shoulder.  The increase is tapered back to 1/2″  from about 4″ on each side of the shoulder back to the top of the side panel. This improved the shoulder enormously

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Fortunately, I basted with WST because little pleats appeared where none were desired. I really hate making these adjustment because invariably, they aren’t perfectly alike as they would be had I cut the fabric from altered tissue.  At best, the differences are hardly noticeable.  This is not an ‘at best’ situation.  It doesn’t take much looking to see that one shoulder seam is now longer than the other.  For the finished garment, I removed the 1″ basting at the seam and serged it at the original depth (1/2″). But  I still wanted to remove the ‘drop shoulder’ look. First I tried stitching a dart in the center of the shoulder. I was making a fish eye dart with zero points about 4″ down in front and back with the 1/2″ eye part straddling the shoulder. Could not make a really nice dart. The seam would invariably slip when stitched. In the past, I’ve covered up such a goof with a faux epilep.  Unfortunately, my neck was already finished. As well as having to rip the just serged sleeve, a faux epilep would either require ripping the neck finishing or an awkward finish at the neckline. Why trade one awkward finish for another?  The winning solution? Inserting 1/2″ raglan shoulder pads.

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Generally, I prefer to fit my TNT’s first then alter the shoulder height to accommodate the size shoulder pad I want to  use. With this garment, that was unnecessary.  Pretty sure that’s because of the dolman underarm/sleeve which is loose and generous while still skimming the body lines. Also note in the side view that the hem is hanging pretty even.

I  offset the side seams between side panel and hem to remove the 1.25″ added to the straight side panel which make it the flared. I wanted to know, if I really needed the extra ease.  I was delighted to be able to reduce the flare at the hem.  It’s still flippy but not as much and I like both ways.  This alteration was an ‘at best’, i.e. any differences between side panels is unnoticeable. For the final garment I serged off the excess.

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As for the back

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I added chain to the hem.  I’ve tried this several times and find that it helps with Velcro Butt. Which is the tendency for fabric to pile up on a prominent rump instead of sliding off and down. Finally, the fabric poll on the right side between shoulder blade and hip is GONE. In fact, most of those back wrinkles look like trapezoid flare lines to me. Won’t deny that I may still have RBA  and asymmetrical shoulder issue. But this back in this fabric looks fine to me for a trapezoid style of garment.

Tissue Changes:

I darted the front and back shoulder. Actually I slashed and overlapped removing 3/4″.  The 1/2″ seeam didn’t look quite enough plus it removed length from the sleeve which really wasn’t necessary. Darting the front and back shoulder should take care of the drop sleeve.

I started working on the excess cap width by  but making two 3/8″ deep darts into the sleeve cap each about 4″ long. Sleeve cap bubbled a little and I smooshed it down to finish flattening. This is after all, a flat pattern. The envelope doesn’t show any gathering along the sleeve/armscye seam. I know there is some artistic license invoked in making these envelopes but I still feel that the sleeve should at most have been eased. I’m hoping the two darts will remove all the execess ease, but if not, I’ll make more.

I also removed the 1/4″ at the back above the hip made before I even cut this fabric. I wanted it to remove all the drag lines and pooling seen on the right side. But the dart seemed to have no effect other than making my back side seam 1/2″ shorter. Why make an alteration that has no effect.

My Tabula Rasa T tissue is at the point of being TNT. I can pull out these 4 pieces anytime and make a nice looking knit top with varying amount of hem flare. I’m probably going to keep playing.  I’d like to make the back a single piece which will mean rotating the RBA to neck or shoulder darts and removing the CB seam allowance. I can also envision style variations. How hard would it be to make a surplice front? Or add front or back yokes? High low hems?  That’s the fun of a TNT. You can do so much more than the just sew the pieces the same way every time.

Tabula Rasa T: Fit

During sewing I discovered it was a real mistake to adjust the armscye length (via shoulder slope) and ignoring the sleeve cap. I could not ease sleeve to garment. Couldn’t do it. Ripped out the sleeve twice. Finally thought “How would a soft pleat look?”  The pleats are about 3/8″ deep. One on each back but 2 on each front.

Otherwise, sewing was a breeze.  I taped necklines and back shoulders before stitching bust darts, center and shoulder seams. BTW, I’m using water-soluble thread through-out fitting. Makes ripping  easy when I need to fix issues.  Once shoulder seams are sewn, the sleeve is folded in half and the underarm sewn. The side panel is then stitched to the bottom of the sleeve. The whole long seam from hem, up across shoulder  and down to the hem is sewn in one fell swoop. Unless like me you goof the sleeve cap. I thought that sleeve would make sewing a challenge. But after following FFA’s instructions I said “That’s not so bad.”

I slipped it on to check fitting and immediately said “whoops”. The arms are too tight. They would be OK if this was a slinky  but not for this 30% stretch. I can let them out and gain 1/2″ ease which will make the sleeves at least wearable. Before I make the pattern again, though, I need to add width.

I was afraid this garment would be too long.  Comparing the pattern pieces with my knit sloper, I thought for sure it was tunic length. But the length looks right even at the first fitting.

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The black and white print does camouflage drag lines really well. I lightened the pics 60% to find any issues at all.  Even then I don’t think there are many and they may not need fixing.

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This is the best the right side view  ever of any top, while the left is absolutely toast.   The left is bad because I didn’t smooth that side before taking the pic. Right side and back view have 1 drag line each below the bust above the hip.  The front has a bubble at the CF neckline which I did not  see either in the mirror or when looking down. That would suggest that the upper chest  is too wide .  I also think that the neckline is a smidge deeper than  I’d ever want.  It’s hard to lean over without showing the goodies. I like my tissues to show my preferred lowest neckline. The neckline I would wear with a facing. I don’t want to wear this with a facing. I’ll be adding a band/ribbing of some type to raise it a little and modifying my tissue too.

I’m just so surprise that it looks this good. I could finish it, narrow sleeves and all, and wear it with pride.  I was hoping the pattern would be easy to fit. I think I got my wish.

At the second fit it was pretty obvious that  the drag line on the back right really was from asymmetrical shoulder — although we have had some discussion as to whether my hips might also have a little asymmetry.  Not only was the drag line, just above the hip and diagonal, but in this fitting there were 2 more small lines below the shoulder.  The left side photoed well this time and is not showing any issue. Or at least I think not. The Tabula Rasa T with flare side appears to be trapezoid top. I chose that option deliberately because the instructions recommended the flare side for those with larger hips especially pear-shaped individuals. Pear shaped? Like calling my name.  Point is, some of what may be drag lines flow like the trapezoidal hems do. So are they errors or not?  For now, I’m saying they are not — only the side-back right, drag lines. After this fitting, I took a small dart on the back across from the sleeve/side panel seam. So that it would look the same, I did the same on both sides.

I let the underarm seam out as far as possible.  It’s still close, but at lease wearable and the sleeve does not ruche. Wondering if I traced the wrong size, I checked the tissue against the pattern.  It’s a large. I had intended to trace a large.  Large from shoulder to waist; Xlarge from waist to hem. However, I think the sleeve should have been Xlarge.  I marked the old tissue “Slinky” in several places and traced a size XL for future use. I darted out 1.5″ length along the sleeve cap of the new “slinky” sleeve. Have not yet changed the XL sleeve.  Still mulling it over.  Did not like the pleated sleeve cap or side panel. I pulled out the clear elastic and applied it so I now have nice equal gathers in both places. Well four, if you count each sleeve and each side separately.

Figuring there’s nothing more to fix until next time, I finished and modeled for you:

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Despite the 1/4″ dart on the back, the right side is still hanging up. I did not add chain to the hem;   Think I need to make that a necessary step in hemming blouses.  The extra weight of a narrow chain really does help my tops slide over my rear and hang correctly.

The bubble in the front neckline bugs the heck out of me. I applied the band 3 times. Cut twice. Applying neckbands has always been a challenge to me. I finally conquered them by using water-soluble thread to baste, and then serge to finish.  The band laid flat when it was basted. Laid flat when I checked in the mirror before pics. Looked fine until I got these pics.

When I serged the CF seam, I caught some of the WST. Part of the lift and wrinkling along CF is due to the WST shrinking. But as you can see from the side views:

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my old nemesis at the front has returned. I really had hoped because this was both a bigger cup with dart and a longer front, the hem would be level front to back. I do know that the front lift and flare is modified by the bra being worn. Nonetheless, I added 2″ length to the tissue.

All previous pics were lightened 60% which doesn’t show you how lovely the finished blouse is; so I’m sharing final, cropped, rotated but unretouched pics:

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It really is a nice knit top!

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Afterthoughts:  I’m not sure how much love this pattern, but it is considerable. I mean, I don’t want my every top to be a trapezoid and I will never use the those dragy things on the side of the tunic.  But I expect to use this pattern a lot. Because  I love how easy this pattern was to fit. Yes, having my shoulder draped already was a great help; as well as knowing that I need greater slope on the back armscye.  I thought the sleeve would be difficult but other than tracing a size too small, it was a cinch. I just read and followed instructions. The whole garment came together easily.  Hardly any more effort than a regular T-shirt.  Before I even publish this post, I’m thinking of two more versions of the Tabula Rasa T and purchasing the Tabula Rasa Jacket which I believe is drafted for non-stretch fabrics.   Before the Tabula Rasa T,  I loved the Eureka pants. I’m feeling the same about the T. Fit For Art may become my favorite pattern company.