During cutting, I added 1/2″ to the side seams of front, back and sleeves. I do believe 418 will fit perfectly. Especially since I compared with my sloper and made changes reflected during the comparison. Well I believe 99% that 418 will fit. The 1% of doubt starts at my having learned the hard way that a new fabric, even if I’used similar fabrics before with the same pattern, well a new fabric +old pattern can = bad fit. Pant fit is especially vulnerable to a change in fabric. Today, though, I also plan to use the back darts . I rarely use them. I’m not even sure I used back darts during SP600’s original fitting. I plan to do so for 418 so I’m allowing a little fudge room.
As expected the neck kicked my rear. OK it wasn’t that bad but I did have to concentrate some effort. I cut the front, marked for the dart and marked the neck box with 3/8″ seam allowance lines. I get the best angles if I chalk them and then stitch on the chalked line. Then I Frey Checked and clipped to the corners. I am forever greatful to the sewing sage who shared a corner-cutting insurance tip. Yes it starts with marking, then basting but finishes with a straight pin placed across the corner
As long as that pin is there, I cannot ruin a clip. Wherever you are, Sewing Sage, I bow 3 times to you.
I had a little issue folding the pleat as well. The instructions say to fold so that Circle 1 is about 1/4″ on the other side of Circle 2. Where were the circles? I never saw them. Reminds me of a recent Pattern Review post in which the poster complained bitterly about her frustrating experience due to SP inaccurate instructions. This is the 3rd time I’ve fallen in a black whole trying to follow instructions which I either don’t understand or can’t find the designated markings. OK must be my fault, but I was so glad to read that someone else had a similar experience. I finally looked at the pics of the pleat and figured that the right bottom corner was supposed to fold over just past the left bottom corner and then I should stitch 2 lines parallel and below. I put just 5 stitches vertically to hold my corner placement before making those 2 lines of stitches. Probably totally unnecessary. It’s just that I personally need to make an extra effort to make things really crisp and precise. Pinning just doesn’t do it for me. I seem to be able to pull pinning apart at the critical juncture. So I make strategic stitching before hand.
I have a “sad face” to share during fitting. Well, just for a couple of things. The inserted sleeve, was shorter than I expected. Because I basted and did not attach the cuff, I have a few choices. I could cut a wider cuff. Possible but not what I really want. I could trim the sleeve from an awkward ‘tween long and 3/4 to a proper 3/4 sleeve. I really wanted a fully sleeve, but this is a good possibility. Could also piece the sleeve to the correct length. Well I’ve got a whole Pinterest Board of possible sleeve saves. I probably should read and consider all of them. No matter what I decide to do, I will correct the sleeve so that the full length is full length on my arm.
My 2nd sad face was made when I basted between armscye and hem. The back is 1/2″ longer than the front. Nothing in the pic, the broadcast, or the pattern instructions hint at a high-low hem. Mostly likely this happened way back when I marked the “Hem Change Line”. Obviously I marked it wrong. Easy correction now, just trim the back; and for next time draw the line 1/2″ lower. No big deal, but it was a surprise.
I was tickled pink with a couple of things Yep couple of happy faces too. The circumference is fine. I am glad though that I added the 1/2″. I stitched on the original lines i.e before adding the ease. I think I would like this pattern, this fabric to be just a little more roomy. When I put in the permanent stitching, I’ll angle it out to give myself a little more style room. Lastly, super pleased with the back.
No indication of tightness of insufficient length along the back. Love it.
My blouse is gorgeous!