After several days of alterations, I’m pleased to share my final blouse from SP600:
First 4 alterations, removed a good deal of the frumpiness. Well all of it from the bust up. Alterations as follows:
- Removed Collar
- This was not a pattern mistake. The collar is a combination collar with stand and should have been folded along the upper stand edge (about center of the collar). But I didn’t think of that until after I had removed the collar and finished the neck edge. Perhaps next version I should draft the exact collar of my dreams instead of doing a quick adaptation.
- Increase shoulder slope to 5/8″
- In retrospect, I’m not even sure why I stitched the shoulders with the 3/8″ slope to start with. When I looked at my notes I realized the error immediately.
- This too is not a pattern error but a fitting issue.
- 1/2″ dart at CB neck-seam
- At this time, I am not sure if I stretched the neck edge or if the back neck is too wide. I had not taped nor stay stitched and I haven’t compared with the original tissue, yet.
- Probably not a pattern error either. My back is rounded. I require a 5/8″ RBA and I did not exercise due care in handling the pieces prior to construction.
- 1 . Half inch deep dart (1″ total length removed) on each shoulder
- I haven’t had to do an NSA on my other SP patterns including the other non-stretch top
But there was some left which led to these alterations: Especially at the tummy and sleeve. After next 3 alterations the blouse hangs nicely front and back and the sleeve looks like it belongs on my body
- Remove front waist dart
- I often just ignore the front waist dart markings because I no longer have a waist in front
- Not a pattern error but a fitting issue.
- increase sleeve SA to 1.75″
- I added 1″ for fitting. Have now removed all that plus about a half-inch
- Even with the excess remove this isn’t likely to be a pattern error but rather personal preference in sleeve circumference. I’ve heard that others share my desire for a slimmer sleeve. Some don’t. YMMV.
- 1/4″ tucks 1.5″ apart around cuff 4.5″ high from raw edge
- snuggled the blouse sleeve to my wrist.
- between that and narrowing the shoulder, the sleeve now appears to be the correct length.
- to me the sleeve looks good front and back
- Again, most likely not a pattern error but personal preference coming into play.
I feel Like I’ve removed 99% of the frumpiness. I’m leaving open the possibility future versions will look even better because I will start a nice fit. I expect to be tweaking mostly for fabric variations but I may also need a few fit changes.
I was surprised at all the alterations needed, especially above the bust. With the other SP top patterns I have made as I started them too with a size 4; added the needed a 5/8″ shoulder slope and a 5/8″ RBA. That’s it to fit the upper bodice. I would then add 1″ to the side seams and narrow that to 1/2″ under the arm at the first fitting to tweak the ease.
I pulled out the original tissue to check what I had traced. Only to discover I traced correctly. Really throws a wrench into my SP fitting plans and diminishes my enthusiasm for SP patterns. Not that there is anything wrong with the patterns. My enthusiasm for SP was based on being able to fit with so few alterations. LIke I said, I was tracing a size 4 and doing 3 alterations. One of the beauties of SP and one of the advertised features, is the consistency of the draft. However, I’ve put out a few feelers and had several people describe similar fitting experiences. I think it means, I can’t depend on size 4 with 3 alterations. I will need to check each new pattern before cutting fabric. I’m a little sad over that. I miss the years when I could buy a pattern, slash 1″ off the length and stitch together a ‘new creation’. Need to get over that regret.