Category Archives: CF Pleated

SP418: Construction and Fitting

During cutting, I added 1/2″ to the side seams of front, back and sleeves. I do believe 418 will fit perfectly. Especially since I compared with my sloper and made changes reflected during the comparison.  Well I believe 99% that 418 will fit.  The  1% of doubt starts at my having learned the hard way that a new fabric, even if I’used similar fabrics before with the same pattern, well a new fabric +old pattern can = bad fit.  Pant fit is  especially vulnerable to a change in fabric. Today, though,  I also plan to use the back darts .  I rarely use them. I’m not even sure I used  back darts during SP600’s original fitting. I plan to  do so for 418 so I’m allowing a little fudge room.

As expected the neck kicked my rear. OK it wasn’t that bad but I did have to concentrate some effort. I cut the front, marked for the dart and marked the neck box with 3/8″ seam allowance lines.  I get the best angles if  I chalk them and then stitch on the chalked line. Then I Frey Checked and clipped to the corners. I am forever greatful to the sewing sage who shared a corner-cutting insurance tip. Yes it starts with marking, then basting but finishes with a straight pin placed across the corner

As long as that pin is there, I cannot ruin a clip. Wherever you are, Sewing Sage, I bow 3 times to you.

I had a little issue folding the pleat as well. The instructions say to fold so that  Circle 1 is about 1/4″ on the other side of Circle 2.  Where were the circles?  I never saw them.  Reminds me of a recent Pattern Review post in which the poster complained bitterly about her frustrating experience due to SP inaccurate instructions. This is the 3rd time I’ve fallen in a black whole trying to follow instructions which I either don’t understand or can’t find the designated markings. OK must be my fault, but I was so glad to read that someone else had  a similar experience. I finally looked at the pics of the pleat and figured that the right bottom corner  was supposed to fold over just past the left bottom corner and then I should stitch 2 lines parallel and below.  I put just 5 stitches vertically to hold my corner placement before making those 2 lines of stitches.  Probably totally unnecessary. It’s just that I personally need to make an extra effort to make things really crisp and precise. Pinning just doesn’t do it for me. I seem to be able to pull pinning apart at the critical juncture. So I make strategic stitching before hand.

I have a “sad face” to share during fitting. Well, just for a couple of things. The inserted sleeve, was shorter than I expected. Because I basted and did not attach the cuff, I have a few choices.  I could cut a wider cuff. Possible but not what I really want. I could trim the sleeve from an awkward ‘tween long and 3/4 to a proper 3/4 sleeve.  I really wanted a fully sleeve, but this is a good possibility. Could also piece the sleeve to the correct length. Well I’ve got a whole Pinterest Board of possible sleeve saves. I probably should read and consider all of them.  No matter what I decide to do, I will correct the sleeve so that the full length is full length on my arm.

My  2nd sad face was made when I basted between armscye and hem. The back is 1/2″ longer than the front.  Nothing in the pic, the broadcast, or the pattern instructions hint at a high-low hem.  Mostly likely this happened way back when I marked the “Hem Change Line”. Obviously I marked it wrong. Easy correction now, just trim the back; and for next time draw the line 1/2″ lower. No big deal, but it was a surprise.

I was tickled pink with a couple of things Yep couple of happy faces too. The circumference is fine.  I am glad though that I added the 1/2″.  I stitched on the original lines i.e before adding the ease.  I think I would like this pattern, this fabric to be just a little more roomy. When I put in the permanent stitching, I’ll angle it out to give myself a little more style room. Lastly, super pleased with the back.

No indication of tightness of insufficient length along the back. Love it.

And finished…..

My blouse is gorgeous!