Back in 2015, I remember how incredibly easy it was to fit this pattern. I wanted to make 50 of them. Then my back rounded some more and I, um, added some padding. By Summer’s end 2016, my CC0456’s did not fit nicely at all. I put off trying to refit the pattern because, it’s sleeveless until now, beginning of Summer 2017.
I traced the same size (XL) and add 3/8″ to the side seams for fit insurance. I goofed tracing the wrong lines of the side front and side back. discovered after cutting fabric and while trying to assemble the bodice top with bottom. Knowing this was not a problem previously, I went rechecked the pattern and discovered my issue.
Even then, it took me 3 fittings. At the first fitting, I knew I needed a whole lot more ease for my tummy and rear end. I considered using the women’s sizes. However they typically have much wider shoulders and much bigger busts to go with the much wider rear ends. I have the later, but not the two former. I may yet do some measuring of the W patterns just out of curiousity but really it was easier to trace the XL and add an inch to each of the side seams because as in the 2015 fitting, the XL shoulder fit as in the illustration and the princess seams needed pinching 3/8″ in the armscye.
I think I need to pinch the princess seam a little deeper on the right side. Maybe another 1/8″ because the left side looked beautiful.
My fabric is a poly/cotton with absolutely ZERO stretch.
I should mention I added a center back seam and a 5/8″ RBA. I think that eliminated most of the drag lines I usually see (and did not see at all with this pattern, this version). The hem is right at my widest point. In combination with the above side views, and from the feel of the garment, I think there is plenty of ease across the hip and am at a loss the explain the drag lines.
The pattern has a left front and a right front for a truly asymmetrical and intriquing front hemline. Personally, the center V is avant garde enough for me. In fact, I’ll probably square that hemline. While I think the hemline looks good, I think the the points are supposed to overlap instead of spread. Something I may or may not work on in the future ’cause, like I said, I think this looks good.
My biggest complaint, and I’m not sure I’m complaining, is how high up on the shoulder the armscye crosses. I am very narrow shoulder and usually avoid halter tops. Especially as I’ve aged, gained weight and spread at the hip, I’ve tried to avoid the narrow shoulder/wide hip contrast.
Not a complaint but I will develop a neckline without the lapel and I very well could add a collar. The pattern does lend itself to some variation. Something good in my estimation because the pattern can be used multiple times.
I used only 4 front buttons. The lowest button is 2″ below the empire line but it rests 1/2″ above the waistband of my pants. No flesh shows; no muffin top either.
- 1.” BWL
- 5/8″ RBA
- +1/4″ CB both upper and lower bodice
- increase princess seams SA 3/8″ from armscy to notch
- Increase front ease by changing front SA to 1/4″ (-1/8″) and calculating CF with 3/4″ button radius + 1/4″ +1/4″SA. (Moving the CF line 1″ towards the cut edge)
- Increased SA at the underarms 1/8″
- Increased ease at side seams 1″ all pattern pieces.
Tech changes i.e. nothing to do with fit but with construction
All seam allowances changed to 1/4″ except
- Side seams 1/2″
- Hem 1.25″
I think those 1/4″ SA’s make sewing princess seams a snap.