Fall 6PAC started back in August. At the time it was way too hot to think of covering the body from head to toe. What I did though was to retrieve the clothes I use for transitioning between Summer and Winter. Discarded those that have become worn. Sorted according to my base neutrals Charcoal, Sable Brown and Navy Blue. One cool evening, I tried on clothes to make sure I could still get them on. Then I looked for pants, 3rd layers and a mix of tops. (My tops need short, 3/4 and long sleeves to work throughout the transition from hot to cool and back.) What I discovered was that I’m covered. Almost. My only missing garment is a black jacket. Otherwise, I can make a 6PAC for each of my neutrals from my existing wardrobe.
I’ve been keeping an eye on another thread concerning the trend in jackets and watching on-line shopping channels to see what they are selling. I’m glad to see the mix of styles available. I really could wear any style I desired and still be fashionable. I decided to use a very old pattern in my stash, the Wannadu Jacket with a simple update, I made it 3″ longer– to make a length I’m frequently seeing. I decided against the ruffles I see everywhere, I want this to be a basic garment in my closet for a few years. Also avoided the high-low hem. Please I had enough of those when I PG 30 years ago. IMO, if you want to look pregnant, get pregnant.
It’s a very simple style. Basically a Ruana shape with extensions for sleeves and a band to finish front opening and neckline.
I chose a very nice knit (rayon blend) with lots of texture. I think they used a double bed, Jacquard technique to create the fabric but I’m not sure exactly what the fabric or technique is called. The texture is very similar to double weave with sections that lift and bubble from a base. Of course, my fabric is black so photoing it is no help. Trust me, it is gorgeous and best appreciated up close. I opted to add a full lining using a 4 ply silk also in black. (I’m pretty consistent and predictable.) when I cut my fabrics, I added the sleeve sections to the body thereby eliminating the seam that runs along the shoulder. However this 52″ fabric was not quite wide enough, so I had to use the optional cuff pieces to make my sleeves the length I wanted — which would be the length for cool weather. I interfaced the cuffs but nowhere else, because I didn’t cut the typical band. I cut a 1″ wide strip that I planned to attach for a front button placket.
Sewing is faster than writing. I placed the lining and fashion fabric right sides together and stitched around the neckline and center fronts. Inverted and basted the two layers around the outer perimeter. The hem was left open. Even though there isn’t a shoulder seam per se, I stitched the two layers along that line. The stitching just disappears. Even when standing right next to me, the line is hardly visible. I did a really nice job on the side seams. I serged the edges before stitching. Beautiful inside finish. I serged the cuffs into a circle and serged one raw edge to the sleeve. Finished the other raw edge, turned up and top stitched. this gives me a really nice edge at the wrist and a smooth finish inside.
I was ready for buttons and buttonholes but that’s going to be a whole ‘nother post. It was a stopping point for several weeks because even with my embarrassingly large collection of buttons, I couldn’t find one that I thought was adequate. They were too large. Not enough of them. Ugly. Too heavy. Too small. Too everything that was ever said about buttons. Let’s leave the buttons and finish the jacket.
I added shoulder pads as an after thought. I’ve been asking for help with my unique shoulder shape at SG. Shoulder pads were suggested. Which did seem to help, some, but they’re really not the solution. I even used hefty 3/4″ jacket pads in this jacket. I look like I have shoulders but I also still have the side drapes I repeatedly complained about until I draped my shoulder. (Funny thing, I’m seeing more and more garments where those drapes are the focal point.)
I do know that black is hard to see and you’re not seeing a lot of detail but… that’s about what you would see until you get within a foot of me. This is deep dark black. Blacker than charcoal.
I planned this as a fall jacket and need the buttons only on colder windy days. I am more likely to button only the 3 lower buttons and ignore the top. If the weather’s really cold, I’ll wear a scarf and mittens. I *think* this is done, done, all the way done. I’m concerned I used too many buttons, which is correctable. But I’m going to wear the jacket a few times and take more pics before I decide maybe it’s not all-the-way-done after all.
AND that COMPLETES my fall 6PAC sewing!