Category Archives: 5793-Shrug

B6299, 4-Piece, Armscye Princess-Seam for Woven Fabrics

I am so pleased to present:

So I bombed with the Sateen 4-piece version; recovered somewhat with the Red Crinkle version, and now rethinking  a woven version of the 4-piece  B6299.    I’ve added 1/2″ to the side seams of the side front and side back pieces.  Then I acknowledged that I curve outward instead of inward at my front waist. After careful consideration, I left the back pieces alone, and  straightened,  made the front and side front less indented at the front waist:

I hope you can see where the arrows are pointing.  I’ve smoothed out  the curve less than 1/4″; closer to 1/8″.  I think it worked really well.

One other, I hope, minor change is that I also converted to one of my favorite styles for summer, the button front.

My fabric is a linen purchased some 8-10 years ago at  the now defunct Mill Ends in Sioux Falls SD.  I prefer blends i.e linen-silk, linen-cotton and my favorite linen-poly. Yes I like just a slight bit of poly. I think poly helps fabrics resist wrinkling and is often more comfortable because poly seems to add a little stretch but not as much as Lycra would. This is a heavy linen but very smooth.  I had only 1-1/4 yard. For a long time debated how to use this short yardage with the big print. My usage now  boiled down to wanting suitable fabrics for  sleeveless, summer patterns without adding  half or three-quarter yards to my remnants. The 1-1/4 yard,  52″wide fabric was perfect. I had mere scraps left over.

I lament that I used to be able to donate all such remnants to the Goodwill/St Thomas and other charities who could sell natural fibers for rags or as recycled fibers for mattresses and other goods. When last I asked, staff at the Goodwill had no idea what I was talking about. So I assume donated small yardages are no longer a valued commodity. 

I  bound the armscyes with bias tape and stitched the side seams. Was well on my way to turning up and hemming the bottom edge when I remembered that at the first (and only) fitting I had intended to deepen the princess curve right at the armscye. Left side is not as bad as right

but both could be a little better. I absolutely must tweak the right side more to conform with my bodily curves and lower right shoulder.  Must remember/write myself a note: Princess seams especially on right side need to be 1/8-1/4″ deeper.

I thought the 1/2″ I added to the seams would be too much ease. As a minimum, I thought I would need to sew the side-seam allowance deeper at the underarm. But on me, my blouse feels great with all that ‘extra’ ease.

I like the B6299, 4- piece adaptation really well. I like it better than the Tabula Rasa Vest/sleeveless top. It is important that I mark the notches on the princess seams; and there are additional seams that the typical tank top doesn’t have. But, this  style looks so much better on me and  it is fast to sew. Not as fast as 2 side seams. But faster than marking and sewing the darts I would need. It’s well worth whatever extra effort I need to make for the 4-piece pattern. This is my new TNT sleeveless tank top pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A 3rd Layer

My collection needs a third layer. If you’ve read my posts for any time at all, you’ll know that I want extra coverage in the sun and in the grocery store freezer sections.

I’m using View B from Connie Crawford B5793 pattern. It’s an easy 2-piece pattern that doesn’t need fitting.

I prefer long sleeves for my third layer (for reasons listed above).  I actually started another garment with another pattern. Once I had it basted together, I could tell it wouldn’t work  visually or fit wise. Everything I could think of that would fix  fit, made issues elsewhere including visual.  Everything I did to make it more appealing visually wouldn’t coordinate with the current collection.  Finally I decided to set that aside and chose a new fabric and new pattern, B5793.  My fabric is silk/cotton. Note the silk first.  If I had to choose, cotton/silk would be my favorite of all time. But I like this combination too.  It is as light weight as a scarf and silky while still being opaque.    I made no effort to match the plaid. Was totally surprised when the plaid matched on the left side

Doubly surprised when the right matched too

I was focused on fitting the pattern pieces on the 44″ wide fabric. I wasn’t surprised when the shoulders didn’t match. I covered it up by inserting 1″ flat piping along the shoulder line.  I find that “place” for the eye to rest makes the mis-match less objectionable.  Only one odd thing with this pattern: the way the sleeves peak at the shoulder:

I didn’t notice that until I was pressing the shoulder seams.

I finished the sleeve with a narrow, twice-turned hem.

I used a serger rolled hem to finish the hem and neckline.

From start to finish this lovely casual 3rd layer took maybe 3 hours:

… and since this is a late-summer early-fall collection, this 3rd layer will be perfect.