Category Archives: 62905 Relax A Little

CLD: Relax A Little Top (RAL)

Every summer, for several years, I made this top.  I kept 4 or 5 versions in the closet for spring, summer and fall weather. Then suddenly, I couldn’t remove the drag lines from any of my Cutting Line Designs patterns. I tried. Everytime I had a success with other patterns, I would try it on one of my CLD patterns. Nada. What worked elsewhere didn’t do it for CLDs.  Additionally, the RAL has a 1 piece yoke.  I need a shoulder slope alteration. Where do I make that?  Making it on the yoke definitely changes the style line. Not making it at all introduces deep U drape lines on the side. I put the RAL in deep time out because even if I could figure out what I was doing wrong on the other CLD patterns, I wouldn’t know how to fix the RAL

It was a Judy Kissinger video which led to my break through with the RAL top.  Instead of making my sloping shoulder and round back adjustments to the yoke, I made them at the top of the lower piece!.  Lower front was a piece of cake. Just like altering the shoulder at the shoulder except the line drawn was a little longer. Altering the back required some thought. First I measured down 5/8″ and drew a line (Yellow in the pic)  from CB to the marked 5/8″ line

Yellow line starts at top of drafted CB and traverses to the new lower side seam point.

Well what about the round back? My RBA needs to  add 5/8″. I suppose I could slash and spread as usual, but since the effect is the same, I made a mark 5/8″ above the top of the back (as drafted.) Then I drew a new line (Red) from this new CB mark to the lowered side seam mark

That line is drafted as a curve; so for my alteration I pulled out my french curve and also drew a curve.

When I trimmed the tissue, I trimmed along the red line. Looks weird, but, It works:

You really don’t notice either alteration.

One of the things I like about the RAL, is the ability to add shoulder pads. My shoulder slope is such that I often tease, I don’t have shoulders. I really appreciate what a little pad can do both in the back view above and this front view:

I did need to lower the “stitch to dot” on the side seam by 5/8″, the same as I trimmed away.

Oh you can’t really see that. What I really love is there are not any obnoxious drag lines even here looking at my asymmetrical and lower right side. I call this a success!

 

*****Summary of Changes

  • Small Yoke with Large lower front and lower back
  • 5/8″ shoulder sloper applied to lower front and back
  • 5/8″ Round back alteration applied to lower back
  • V neckline instead of collar.
  • Lower “stitch to dot” 5/8″
  • lengthened 3.5″
  • Curved hem
  • added shoulder pads