My plan was a return to business as usual. I had traced the size corresponding to my high bust. That was Pamela’s recommendation for a close fit. I’m not content with yesterdays results. So I treated sizing just as I do for Burda, CLD, Loes Hines and other patterns. I traced the size which fits my hips. Then I make 2 standard alterations. Well standard for me. These are the alterations which adapt my figure to the standard patterns.
So a large in PP108 fits the hips. Traced. I made a 1.5″ BWL because yesterdays medium was still about 1/2″ too long in the upper body. I altered along the armscye petite line which Pam marked on the pattern. Then I made my standard 1″ NSA. Just before cutting my 100% cotton, jersey fabric, I compared the new tracing to my GOTO for woven shells the HAF.
No really I’m not WOWed. This pattern is touted to have included adjustments for our rounder backs, forward shoulders and thickening girths. Today’s version of Pp108 does less for me than yesterday’s.
In addition to the masses of wrinkles on the back, the front hem is clearly rising. But one big improvement: yesterday the back looked very small in comparison with the front. Today, they look even. Yesterday it looked like I was using a smaller sizer for the back than the front. Not so today.
But I’m especially disappointed with the front.
I”m not a busty individual. Even at my heaviest I was only a C cup. Now I’m almost a B. But this version insisted upon forming an armscye bust dart. It formed and could not be eased out. I tried. Several times. Several ways. The fabric clearly folded into a bust dart. Why do I object? Because I already have an excellent fitting shell pattern with an armscye dart. I did not want to fit another. If I wanted a shell even a knit shell with the armscye dart, I would have started with the HAF. I had assumed there might be small drag lines similar to what I see with PP104
Had I known that the armscye dart would develop, I would not have even purchased this pattern.
In case you can’t tell, I finished the sleeveless top above. I made about 6 fitting tweaks but was never able to keep the fabric from forming a dart. So I finished with simple bindings, stitched RST, turned inside and top stitched. I fused the hem into place and then said “why knock myself out over this hem”. I cut 1.5″ strips of sticky WSS and smoothed them into place on the wrong side, overlapping the area to be stitched. Then I coverstitched the hem. Easy. Beautiful. Probably a very good procedure for these jersey knits. I remember seeing or hearing comments about how jersey knits are becoming lighter and lighter and therefore trickier and trickier to handle. As I look as these last two cotton jersey knits, I wonder if I would have purchased these at the fabric store. I certainly would not have purchased a completed garment. They remind me of the cheapest Walmart stuff. The kind you buy because you have to have something right now and know that you won’t willingly wear it twice. But that’s OK, because it is so cheap. That kind of knit. So my adapted procedure added only a slight expense and while eliminating the headache of fussing with the hem. One possible downside is that the WSS needs to be soaked in water to remove it and that means I don’t get to wear this garment before washing it. but in the end. Sleeveless top is done and in wardrobe for it’s life span (however short that might be).
As for the pattern, I think I’m done. I still need a sleeveless top pattern for use with knits. I really don’t want to sew darts in these casual garments and can accept a few small drag lines.
And as usual…. I have a plan.