You probably think I’m nuts. The last thing I said about the blouse, was I loved it exactly like it was. The very next post I’m writing about changes. Unfortunately, I’m never willing to make the exact same pattern over and over again. I’m always looking for something a little different but not too wild. For the 2×4 I need to consider fitting as well as style changes.
The floating effect of diagonal print.
was a combination of the 7″ ease and the body of the 100% polyester fabric. I really do love this effect and will keep it in mind for similar fabrics. This much ease is also good with fabrics that hang close to the body. But I don’t always want 7″ ease. I want to trace the next size down, make the same tissue alterations (which were my standard narrow shoulder and back waist length adjustments). I’ll keep these in separate envelopes (store most of my patterns and tracings in Kraft envelopes) with the ease clearly marked on the face of the envelope.
I did notice that my hem seemed to rise in both center front and center back. It may be that the shoulder is still too wide but I’ve been noticing that the center front’s of most of my blouses are too short. Since the center front is obviously shorter than the center back, I will both length the center front of the blouse and take a little more out of the shoulder. This may be one of those adjustments that needs to be done a little at a time and even over several blouses. I didn’t want to alter the shoulder on this first version because I had the bias tape inserted in the seam. Without that, I could add a small shoulder dart. With the bias tape in the way, I need to rip out the whole shoulder; trim the bias tape, make my dart and hope I don’t have to repeat.
I also noticed an odd tendency for the side seam to lean forwards
but not always
There seems to be more fabric in front than in the back. The later is typical in many of my blouses during the first fitting. I find that I’m placing an additional inch ease in the back and removing 1/2″ from the front. Interestingly, I’ve had to do much the same with pants I’ve recently fit (excepting the Eureka pants. ) I think it could help the fit of this garment to make a similar change.
Generally, I would think this blouse is too long on me. The length worked because of the fabric and print. But in reality I need to shorten the hem.
I’ll probably adapt the neckline, too.
This is not a bad neckline, just not my best. (The gaping is entirely my fault for choosing an incompatible finish.) I will fill in the areas over the shoulder. I just don’t care to have my neckline sliding back and forth over my shoulders. Thing is, necklines are one of the easiest changes to make. I have a whole book with nothing but neckline variations and the instructions to do them. I used the neckline as given because I like to make minimum design changes during the very first fitting. If I make too many changes, I can’t tell if the pattern is wrong or if I did something that made it wrong. I love the versatility of this pattern and can see endless changes: Vneck, Scoop, Square, bound (there are numerous binding methods.)
The basic design of the pattern does lend itself to many variations. It was easy to change from the vented hem to the straight hem used above. It’s also ease to change to a spade or rounded hem and even add different hem finishes: baby hem, bound, stacked. I don’t have a book of hems, but I’ve got lots of edge finishes that I’ve saved and they can all be used for hems.
I added 2″ sleeve length because winter will be here very soon (expecting snow this week). I like the 3/4 length sleeve but not during the coldest time of the year. It’s easy to change sleeve lengths but I also have some cuff design details in mind that would be fun to use.
This fit of this garment is kind of boxy. It’s not severe like the typical knit T-shirt, but there is no real shaping. That’s especially evident when looking from the side view and seeing the drag lines. I won’t try to add the horizontal bust dart, but on Louise Cutting’s site are wonderful instructions for adding front and back tucks across the waist. Mostly, I’ll use this design as is ( with less ease). From time to time though I might like it to have a little more fit.
Please don’t shy away from this pattern because I want to make changes. It is a great pattern; well drafted, very versatile. I want to make a few fitting tweaks and then add details. You can use it as is and create 8 different looks.