I admit to being totally star struck by Louise Cuttings latest pattern Light and Shadow
I also need a break from serious fitting. The Vest, I thought, would be excellent . No major fitting issues. Just sew to my heart’s content. And I did. I mitered corners and top-stitched with abandon.
Used Bias tape to finish edges (which were also top stitched with shiny rayon thread.)
I chose not to use the cowl. I only had 1.25 yards of 60″ wide fabric. The cowl would not fit. I could have done some color blocking. Used a different fabric for the back or one of the fronts. But all winter I found I could not wear my tops with big collars. I flushed and perspired like I was going through the change again. This garment has nearly 2 full fronts. I didn’t need a big ‘ol collar too.
My fabric is a cotton from the Home Dec department of Fabricmartfabrics. For vests, I often pick up 1 -1.5 yards of fabrics that look interesting. I have a vest pattern that takes 28″ of 50″ wide fabric. However with this pattern, if the cowl is used, the full recommended amount will be needed. With just the 3 major pieces, only about 1.25 yards is needed. I cut the fabric and then immediately fused bias stay tape to armscyes and back neckline. Since I knew the hem would be vented, I also fused interfacing to the hems.
This is one of those patterns where if all the marks are transferred and each direction is followed in turn, the garment completes quickly and easily. From tracing to final press, was 4 hours for me. Top stitching added some time but I saved time with bias tape finishes and not using the cowl. I was pleasantly surprised at how the front went together. I was expecting to overlap and button or snap. Instead right is assembled over left, basted at the shoulders then both are serged to the back.
The size I chose is the size I normally choose when using a CLD. Do you need to know it? (Large for those of you that must know.) I always check the charts before choosing a size because Louise has warned that different styles have different amounts of ease and your tastes might be at odds which her choice of ease. Typically, I need to narrow the shoulder 1″ and shorten the back waist length the same. These days, I’m also struggling with a new drag line (from the bust) and add an FBA. However with this pattern, I did only my new NSA the slash and slide method I quickly checked length by holding one of the fronts to my body.
I was slightly surprised at the final pics.
I took two pics of the back. Both skewed to the right. Also the neckline is homogeneously wide. Well the whole garment is quite wide on me.
Despite the fact this has enough ease to be a potato sack, I could still use an FBA.
I don’t understand why my right front does not hang at an angle like the left. I promise, I copied all the marks and matched when sewing.
Somehow the proportions are just not right.
I’m not sure I’m doing anything to this vest, even wearing it. I do think it’s a charming style but I need to make a smaller size and a longer garment. My estimate of length was wrong. I could rip out all the top stitching (shedding tears here) and either cut it smaller or make tucks. But the proportions would still be off for me. I feel like bashing my head against the wall. I know that Louise often crops tops at a high level than I prefer. I thought I was avoiding the length issue when I held the front up to my body. I totally missed the fact this is too short.
Not sure what I will do…..
…. tucks could be interesting….
I like this pattern and will sew it again with modifications to reflect my tastes and preferences. As always the pieces are well drafted. Everything meets where it should, even after my NSA alteration. The dots are in the right places. Fold on the dot and miters are perfect. As mentioned before, assembling the fronts was clever. I’m not likely to make a many vests using this pattern. The style arty and distinctive. I can see having a cool weather and a warm weather version but not much more. My recommendation to others would be measure several times in several places before choosing size. (This does fit me more like and XXXL)