Category Archives: 5210Bergman

Muslin LH 5210

I’m calling it a muslin because of the fabric.  I purchased an interesting fabric last fall from Joanns. It is a woven microfiber that is napped on both sides.  It could be considered a double cloth because both sides look the same except that one side has a black cast to it.  It also has a Lycra content which gives it a 20% stretch. I didn’t want this to be a muslin. I liked the color. It’s more of a Fall color and doesn’t do much for my Spring complexion. In the store, I thought it might be that new Marsala. But when I was able to compare, this is much more orange. Cinnamon almost. Such an interesting fabric that was a @#%&$# to sew. I replaced  ELX needles in  the CS and serger; and tried both 10, 12, 14 universals before settling upon  a 12 Microtex for the SM. Even then I could hear both the SM and serger  pounding through it.  Pinning wasn’t fun either.  I actually pulled out new sharp silk pins but it still felt like I was pushing telephone poles through the fabric.  The fabric has a slight open-weave quality. Kind of like bigger weft and warp rather than lace texture. It did surrender easily to the rotary cutter. But not much else.

I started 5210

as soon as I took the final fitting pictures for 5208.  I wish I had waited until I looked at the final pictures. I would have made more adjustments to the tissue and therefore cut the fabric differently. But whats done is done and actually this muslin of 5210 confirms some of my proposed alterations. For those of you not familiar with the pattern, this is a princess seam style with the seam ending at the shoulder.  I’ve always found this particular princess seam style most flattering and because my shoulder is narrower than the stand, this style is the easiest for me to alter.   Fabric recommended : fabric with drape; Rayon … microfiber. So my microfiber is recognized by Loes as probably working with this pattern.

The pattern includes a 2nd front piece which contains a center front seam to be sewn. I chose to use the front placed on a fold.  I made my standard 1″  BWL but hesitated on the equally standard 1″ NSA.  I did not want to change the shape of the center front piece. Finally whiffled and made a 1/2″ NSA along the side front and back shoulder princess seams.  From the front I can see I need to make a full 1″ NSA.   The shoulder is far too wide for 2015 standards and the shoulder pad only makes it more noticeable. I’m clearly recognizing the lowered left shoulder. I rotated the picture carefully for these post and reviewed garments back for 6 months. The uneven shoulder height is more noticeable today than it was just 6 months ago. I probably will not make any effort towards correcting the uneven shoulder, for now.  DH says he would not have noticed it had I not asked him specifically to look and evaluate the shoulder heights.

Despite the fact that I’ve gone up a full size, this garment feels and looks a little close.  I could make the excuse that this is a classic pattern drafted for yesteryear’s fit. But it wouldn’t change the fact that only sweater knits and slinky  fit beautifully with my Loes patterns. I had thought that perhaps the my issue had to do with the older fabrics I’m trying to use. But that may not be the real issue.  I’m debating on tracing the largest size instead of the recommended size and keeping these for use with slinky and the occasional sweater knit that finds its way into my stash.

Mostly with this front view, I notice the mess of wrinkles on the sleeves and the drag lines from the vest.  I’m good or maybe I’m bad for ignoring the button of my jean being visible behind the top. The sleeves are only slightly too long, had I made a full 1″ NSA, they would be perfect. However I prefer the body be about 2″ longer. Not today’s lengths (which are just above a mini-skirt) but a length that is more flattering for my height and weight.

The sleeve looks much better in this side view but feels close. I again wonder about my shoulder. It’s obvious that my back is rounding which is pushing my neck forward.  This time the sleeve like it is inserted correctly.  The clingy nature of this fabric makes the need for an FBA all too obvious. I hadn’t expected this.  There is subtle shaping in each of the pattern pieces. I truly thought that with built-in bust darts most of those drag lines would go away and the rest could be ignored.  I need to start thinking of myself as “chesty” because my clothes definitely reveal that I need width and depth to cover my front.

I’m not quite sure what to say about the back view. The clinginess of the fabric is definitely a factor. The very nap I thought so attractive in the store is working against me to create a body- skimming  garment.  Notice though there are more and longer drag lines under the lower shoulder.  I think, it is hard for me to tell, that there is enough ease in across the hip. I might even want to increase the waist darting. Part of my indecision comes from knowing that this garment is a few inches shorter than the previous. If this muslin were longer, would it be indicating a need for more ease across my rear?

I’m switching between fitting Loes Hinse patterns and mending/homedec/other sewing projects. In fact as I write this post, I’m considering how to finish a UFO that I’ve spread out across the cutting table. I think instead of proceeding to trace and work on my other LH Favs, ( I have a beautiful Charmeuse for use with the Tunic Blouse 5202)  I’m going  to revisit 5213, the Tunic Blouse and 5210 (this pattern) the Bergman and work on fit.  I would much prefer to tweak pattern fit then learn to draft patterns and still need to tweak pattern fit.

  1. Both Patterns
    1. FBA
      1. drag lines from the bust
      2. rising front hem
    2. Sleeves
      1. additional 1″ ease
    3. Uneven Shoulder
      1. Future Alteration
    4. Back Shaping
      1. Future Alteration
  2. 5213
    1. Lengthen 1″
  3. 5210
    1. Lengthen 2″
    2. Increase NSA to full 1″

 

Advertisements