Category Archives: 5208Bianca

Loes Hines 5208

This is the “Bianca Sweater” pattern from Loes Hines.  It’s more than a T shirt pattern, although that’s what first comes to mind.  I think the pattern was designed for sweater knits. I’m using a Rayon knit purchased from Fabric Mart a few months ago. I’m using the same size I would for a sweater knit fabric.  The pattern is designed for the shoulders to end at the natural shoulder.  For me that’s a bit less, so I gave the pattern a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment.  I also lowered the front neckline a full inch.  Good thing too.  When worn the finished neckline including trim is at the base of my neck.  I’m also using the default sleeve length.


This is the 2nd time I’ve used the pattern.  I used the same size for  a brown bamboo knit to which I added a cowl collar.  I think bamboo needs to be made in a size smaller.  This rayon knit fits perfectly whilst the bamboo is too wide in the shoulder, too long in the sleeve and nearly tunic length.  Fabric makes the difference.


I do love this trim:


It’s a black elastic purchased one of those times when FM had bundles of elastic available.  I need to buy more.  It makes a lovely trim that is stretchable when donning or disrobing.   I Frey-checked the cut edges.  This elastic was just too narrow (3/8″) to finish otherwise.  I do hope that holds up.


This was a wonderful project and much needed.  I chose a simple neckline finish and completed the garment in about an hour.  After struggling with shirts and their bits and pieces and top-stitching, under-stitching etc etc WHEW I needed this quick and easy project.



One last thought on this Loes Hines pattern.  I’m actually trying to use all my unused patterns.  I was rather surprised to come back to this one.  First I ran into the problem that all my long-sleeve designed-for-knits  patterns seem to have very low necklines. I do mean cleavage revealing and I don’t have much to reveal. I’m actually rather surprised at that fact. When I’m cold, my neck and chest get cold too.  Am I the only one with that problem?  What do other people do?  Do you make the plunging neckline and then cover it up with a sweater or something?  My 2nd issue was the print itself.  It is a large (but not the largest) print with dominate shapes and colors.  I felt that cutting it into more pieces with say a princes line would distort and lose the appeal of the print. I hesitated even with a cowl neckline, fearful that the distortion of the folded neckline might also fold and drape one of those roses to the wrong place.  I opted for a known pattern so I could control these issues.



This is one of my “new” patterns.  I see a 2005 date on the envelope, so we can assume the pattern is at least 6 years old.  It is classic Loes i.e. elegant lines to be executed in fabulous fabric.  I purchased this pattern because the three other LH patterns I have are wonderful.  They are easy to sew (just carefully mark and match all dots) and always look wonderful.  I do believe that Loes drafts for my type of figure.  Hers are the one pattern which do not need a narrow shoulder adjustment in order to fit me.


When I first opened the package and looked at the pieces, I thought “T-shirt”.  I already have a terrific fitting T-shirt from Pamela’s Patterns.  But knowing Loes, I did not set aside the pattern and instead did a few simple comparisons to my TNT’s.  I found that the shoulder was fine. The bust and hips were fine.  The sides seemed to have no shaping but the length was fine.  Now that’s really remarkable and I knew it. This was not a typical T-shirt.  It is well fitted across the shoulders and slim fitting through the body.   This is the type of fit I truly desire.  It is close enough to reveal a figure, but does not restrict my breathing or highlight my many roll and lumps  curves.


I used a dark brown ITY. Yes I know I was talking about blacks and greys, but do you know how many shades of grey there are?  Not just shades either.  I have at least 7 cuts of grey in my stash each one of them seems to have a slightly different color shift.  Some shift to blue i.e. blue-grey.  Many are a brownish-grey. Very few look like the charcoal log dug out of the fire and thinned with some kind of painting/dying medium. NONE matched the greys already in my closet. Oh wait, I did find one grey that matched.  I carefully pressed it, noting the smoothness, stretch in both directions. The subtle weight and drape. Then refolded and placed back on the shelf.  I know when I have perfect legging fabric and I’m not using it for tops. My fabric buy list now contains: dark browns: blacks and greys.  To my disgust, I’ve joined the ranks of sewists who have not stashed essential basic fabrics.


My next choice was a delightful white and turquoise print with some black also in an ITY. I didn’t finish pressing that.  I’d already decided upon using LH5208.  Made all the preparations, all the trimming checking measuring needed to use LH5208.  While pressing the white/turquoise print I realize that it would look best in Simplicity 2221, another new pattern I’m dying to make but haven’t even taken out of the envelope.  White/turquoise gets refolded and back onto the shelf.


The dark brown ITY was close on the same shelf.  I do love this fabric.  My first garment in ITY was purchased at a close out in a local store. It was cheap. $2 for an Ity, 3/4 sleeve top in a lovely salmon.  I figured I’d wear it a season maybe too.  I’m really surprised that 3 years later, I’m still wearing that $2 top.  It doesn’t pill or stain. I do cycle it in and out of wear due to the weather. I’ve also purchased several other ITY cuts of fabric because of the really good experience I’ve had with the $2 top.  So I checked my closet and said, “Yeah the dark brown, winter top I have now is not going to last the winter. Besides it’s a little fussy with ruffles and lace. ”  So dark brown ITY is what I used.


I did stitch the front 3 tucks with a contrasting color.  I also have been admiring the many cowl neck tops and so I cut and added a cowl neck top to my own garment.


I’m writing and describing as much as I can because dark brown photographs just about as well as black. Meaning that you can’t tell a thing from the pics.  You just have to believe me that I cut a size large, added a neat, collar and it all looks good, fits good, feels good.   LH5208 is another winner in my book to be used for nice looking tops in lieu of the standard T-shirt.