Category Archives: 5205BoatNeckTop

Time to Retire a TNT

I’ve had a love affair with Loes Hines Boat Top. Most raglans are drafted at a narrower angle, about 45 degrees which serve to  heighten my pear shape. In most raglans my shoulders look narrower and my hips wider all because of the line. But this very upright raglan provides me an easy to sew sleeve/armscye while still visually balancing my figure.. I’ve kept a version in my wardrobe during all seasons. But my shape has changed.  As my shape changed I made little changes to the pattern.  First add hip room. Next tummy room. Then the back needed a little more room and the sleeve was too tight. Again with the tummy and on and on to the point that the version I’m sharing today hardly fits at all.

The back appears too wide across the mid back but I’d wager the real problem is the sleeves.  The sleeves feel tight and I think are refusing to slide into place thereby pulling the back out to where they are sitting. The center back has a mass of wrinkles making me consider a sway back alteration except that when I sit the whole hem migrates upwards and it all bunches together at my waist.

The side view shows that back hem is even what you can’t see is that the front hem is rising despite the additional ease added to the front.

I am annoyed by the front which at the same time shows it is too tight and too loose. This pattern should not have drag lines coming from my bust or billowing folds below my tummy — yet it does.

This is a truly lovely fabric. It has a shiny silver thread on the right side.  I’m divided in my feelings about rayon kn its, this one is 100% rayon. They are soft, wonderful to wear; and usually not hard to sew. This partcular fabric was a bear to hem. Rippling occurred during hemming at either sewing or cover stitch machines AND I had glued the layers together with Steam-A-Seam .  SAS usually prevents any shifting of fabric. Not this time. I cranked the CS presser foot pressure down 3 full rotations! No help at all. I resorted to using a layer of self-adhesive, water-soluble stabilizer on both sides of the fabric, in addition to the SAS holding the hem in place.

Had I known this fabric would be so difficult, I would not have embroidered it. I stabilized the fabric for embroidery with  nylon mesh, spray temporary adhesive and a light weight topper. The same sandwich I used for the Rust Top except something different happened this time.  This too is a light embroidery, mostly outline stitch. Yet it puckered after removing the stabilizer. I suppose it is my fault for not testing. But when you use the same set up successfully a hundred times, you expect the successful results on the one-hundredth and FIRST time.

Well good news is that I do like this color. The first thing I noticed in the front view was the color of my eyes. Apparently this soft rose pink provides a good contrast. Despite my dislike of some of the fitting, I’ll wear this top because I’ll also wear a vest.

Thankfully the vest covers up or distracts from most of the garments ills.

I threw away the copy of the pattern.  I still have the originals. My first thought is I need to start over with fresh measurements and a fresh copy of the pattern. But I’m unlikely to do that because I’ve been working with and like the Otto raglan pattern.  It a way it’s a shame, but I think I’m retiring my TNT.. at least for now.