Category Archives: 5202TunicBlouse

Fucia Flowers

Satisfied with the muslin,  I moved onto something I’d be proud to wear.  My fabric is again a rayon Challis. Purchased at the same time as the muslin fabric but the colors are more me. Clear reds, pinks with a hint of that acid green and some fucia.  The fucia is pretty dominant and not one of my colors. I selected clear red buttons hoping that would make the reds come forward.

I trimmed my tissue carefully around the armscyes being sure to remove the extra 1/16 to 1/8″ I’d inadvertently added the first time.  I lengthened the center front 2″ and trimmed both front and back to a 1-1/4″ hem. I added a 3/8″ CB seam. If I don’t want it I can always place the tissue along the fold line. For now, I want this bit of insurance. I also added 1/4″ to the CF. When finished the drafted 1″ overlap shrinks to about 5/8″ (turn of the cloth and all).  I prefer just a bit more over/underlap.  I added my line at 1/4″ and trimmed excess tissue on the other side of the line. Adding closer to 3/8–turn of the cloth and all, eh? On the front, I redrew my hip curve along the side seam.  This is hard to explain, when I added the 1/2″ for the hip, I aligned my hip curve with bigger end towards the hem.  That created one, long smooth curve.  By turning the curve around and placing the bigger end closer to waist, I create an immediate outward curve. I reasoned that in front, my tummy is already increasing in girth at the waist. It’s at max circumference a mere 2″ below the waist. My pear has morphed over the years.  I’m more watermelon shaped these days and  I need a different front waistline.  I added notches at the waist so I can match them up when sewing because I didn’t treat the back the same.  I added 1/4″ along the entire back side-seam.  I always need more fabric to cross my hips. The last few months, I’ve been adding 1″ to the back and removing 1″ from the front.  I may yet do that but for now my final alterations were to the sleeve and cuff.  I add 1/4″ along the back side-seam of the sleeve and 2″ to the length of the cuff. I did not add length to the sleeve, which you might have been expecting. I had trimmed the fabric 1″ not the pattern. So no need to add length to the tissue, I hope.

As I cut the front and back, I immediately rolled the pieces and moved them to the ironing board.  I wanted to tape the curves before there was the slightest chande of their stretching. I serged the shoulders and back at 1/4″. Normally I would trim both seams down to 1/4″ but I wanted some fit assurance. At the SM I stitched the CB and right shoulder seam at 3/8″. The left shoulder seam I stitched at 1/2″.  That’s only 1/8″ more and may not be enough to offset the effect of the uneven shoulders wearing uneven shoulder pads. Then I got in the zone and put the whole blouse together. I reasoned, it couldn’t look any worse than the muslin and I’d wear the muslin.

I was right.  This is the best fitting I’ve gotten yet. The back looks perfect.

I see that my  shoulder solution hasn’t worked.  Not sure if I should call the two-sizes shoulder pads experiment a failure or keep working with them. I purchased 3 pairs of 3/8 and 3 pairs of 3/4″.  I’ve used 4 of the 12 pads so I still have 8 or 4 blouses to decide.  Because while it isn’t the perfect solution, this is better than ignoring the problem entirely.

After all, on my left side I see only 1 of those pesky U’s:

The right still has about 3

.The shoulder look fairly even, so the different sized shoulder pads are helping:

.

Also, I’ll point out that I’m using a light colored, NOT busy print which tends to show every little divot.  In a dark color or busy print these drag lines might not even be noticeable.

I do strive for perfection. I just don’t throw away everything that doesn’t meet that high standard.  I’m not sure what to do next, about the shoulders.

I see my cami peeking out and the hem is still not level. I do know what to do about these. Add 1/2″ length to the front plus 1/2″ around the entire hem.

You know as dressmakers we’re often too critical especially of ourselves. Most people will not even notice the drag lines I’m so concerned about. They simply won’t see the imperfections that are so obvious to me. So I’m putting LH 5202 in my “Patterns that Fit” list and moving on. If/when I discover a better correction, I’ll revisit fitting. For now, I’ve made a lovely blouse. I’m just going to enjoy it and make more just like it.

^^^^^

A comment about body to body measuring or maybe it should be net body-to-body. I’m talking about the Pivot and Slide principle of comparing your body measurements to the measurements of the body for which the pattern was developed. The measurements you find on the back of the envelope.   I was much more successful with Pivot and Slide by ignoring the waist while  calculating  and applying all the other differences between my body and the body for which  Loes drafted LH 5202.  It was an excellent start. I know there’s still room for improvement because I needed to tweak the amount of ease added to the back and the curve of the front side seam (also ignoring the shoulder issue since there seems to be no way to measure shoulder slope.)   I’m going to keep working in this direction.  I like to be able to use new patterns. To explore new designers and even new patterns from familiar designers. I don’t like making 7 muslins or 11 fitting sessions. What I did, worked. I had 2 fitting sessions for the muslin. None for the final.  Admittedly, I could/should have endured more fitting sessions.

Fit 2 and Done

The longer I stared at the pics of Fit 01.  the more I thought that the only real issue was that the shoulders looked too wide. As if I hadn’t made the NSA at all!

First thing I did was check the pattern. Yes I had made the NSA and it was a full 1″.  Then I noticed that I hadn’t quite trimmed the tissue around the armscyes.  There was at least an extra 1/8″ on the back and again on the front.  Umm combined with the fact that Loes uses 3/8″ SA’s and for basting I had used scant 1/4″ that’s an extra 1/2″. Oh and I can’t forget that the back started out 1/4″ too wide. I thought of another oops. I did not stay stitched nor tape any of my curves. I’ve seen fabrics stretch huge amounts, HUGE, when not stabilized.  And another … Jeesh …. will this never end? I added a 1″ SA to the center back so as to have a seam back there to play with; and stitched at 1″ but my edges did not remain aligned. They were off 1/2″ along about the shoulder blades. Less above and below. I decided as long as I was fixing all the above, I may as well fix the sleeves.  I had calculated they would be 1″ too long once the cuff was added. So I trimmed the sleeve length 1″.  Earlier, I missed the side vent. I usually don’t make the tunic length for this blouse and so don’t make the side vents.  I marked them now.

Then started to sew. I serged the center back along the 1″ CB seam. Since the left now looked lower than the right, I knew I probably needed to work on the shoulders a bit and I wasn’t sure what to do. So I  serged the shoulders at the 3/8″ seam allowance Loes had drafted and promised to think about it before the next version.  I measured 1/2″ bias tape along the pattern’s back neckline marking CB and shoulder seams. I ease the neck to the bias. Then I got into the zone. Big mistake. I finished the blouse. This was intended to be a muslin. I intended to chop at will. I knew before I even took Fit 02 pics that I had an error. I had not checked for a level front hem. I knew that would most likely be off.   I did not expect a new batch of issues.

Where the back had been near perfect, it now was bunching.  the front and sides were absolutely begging for darts and I had an unintended high/low hem.  Worst of all, which you can see, the cuff was tight pulling the whole sleeve downward. Either this fabric shrunk when lightly pressed or I measured the sleeve incorrectly.

I didn’t think I could fix the issues which had suddenly appeared. I was annoyed.  I had pinned the blouse fronts together in 3 different places.  I had marked the center front so I would be sure to pin on the center front.  I had put my buttonholes and buttons on the same line. Why was this shirt biting me?  Then I thought, even to donate this shirt, I need to fix those cuffs.  I whacked ’em. OK I cut them off just above the stitching line. Suddenly front and back look good. At least OK.

My right side looks a little better than left, that shoulder thing again, but I would wear this.

.

It was hard to believe that the sleeve would cause all the problems.

 

 

 

LH5202 2016 Fabric and Fitting

That’s raspberry not red.

My fabric is a Rayon Challis purchased in the last year from FashionFabricsClub.com.  When it arrived, I asked,  why? Why did I purchase this.  Well it is was rayon Challis. One of my all time favorite fabrics despite its downsides; and it was in an interesting snake print. The colors are

  • bleach white-the color I wear when I need to convince anyone that I am sick
  • acid green-  a color the hurts my eyes and reflects in my face creating a ‘just vomited’ appearance. Also good on days I want to convince anyone that I’m sick.
  • lavender- my mother’s favorite which neither she nor I can wear. It makes us both look beaten and bruised.
  • Raspberry- (although It photos a clearer red) another color that brings out all blue undertones and makes me look bruised.

I learned a long time ago that I needed to be careful with colors. Some purples can make me look like I’ve been beaten.  It befuddles me when I make a purchase like this.  It’s the Internet thing. Even though our equipment has gotten much better, I still mis-see (as in mis-remember) colors. I assure you,  I would have kept on walking had I been in a store.

But I kept this purchase.  I knew it would make a good muslin someday. Today is the day.

I basted together my pieces using water-soluble thread. It was wonderful to just sit and sew. Then I tried it on and slipped shoulder pads in place. Loes drafts and includes a pattern for a 3/8″ shoulder pad.  This is the first time I’m using uneven shoulder pads.  My left has the 3/8″ pad for which Loes drafted.  My right shoulder sports a 3/4″ pad.

I was totally shocked when I looked at the pics.

Front has minor buckling just above right hip  that should smooth out.

The right side has vertical drape lines like the back is too large.

What a laugh; the left side now has the bust wrinkles my lower right side used to have.

I know the back could be more perfect, but I felt like if I could just reach back there and smooth it a bit, I wouldn’t have any complaints. Even the sleeves look nice.

I was shocked. Did I really fit this pattern so easily?  Was a 2″ BWL the solution to my fitting woes?

 

^^^^^^^^^^

Looking at it now, I wish I had made more creative use of the stripes.  I didn’t even realize I had stripes until these pics.

 

LH5202, Tunic Blouse

I love the Loes Hinse Tunic Blouse.  It has such a lovely, classic, elegant shape and fit but at the same time is easy to sew. Once it is fit, that is. Unfortunately, for the last year I’ve been unable to completely fit this pattern.  I’ve been close. I’ve had wearable. But not delightful.

My body has changed. Which has changed my fit.  I’ve learned that my shoulders have become more slopped and that my right shoulder is lower than the left.  I keep looking for a fitting procedure that will address my new issues along with my previous issues of narrow shoulders, petite stature, prominent posterior and well padded frame.  Any time I learn something new, I come back to LH 5202 and see if I can fit it to me now.

My latest fitting foray was Pivot and Slide. Long touted by Nancy Zieman as the easiest and  simplest pattern alteration method. If you read my blog posts, you’ll know I”m not sure I agree. My total failure with this system surprised me. It seemed so reasonable. My biggest disagreement with this method is the ‘working in a void’ attitude. Every alteration is written from the point of view that no other alterations took place before and none will take place hereafter.  I can work around that.  I can’t work around  an odd armscye,  wonky waist and hem that resulted from my application of P&S instructions. I’m not ready to try Pivot and Slide again, just yet. But I do take some of the basic principles to heart. I’m most impressed with the idea of comparing my body’s measurements with the body measurements for which the pattern was drafted and altering the pattern accordingly.

For determining size, Loes Hinse gives only two measurements the bust and hip. I chose to use the Large because at least one measurement, the bust, equaled my own. Besides I felt virtuous for having followed the experts’ recommendation to ‘select your blouse size based on your bust measurement’.  From the given hip, I use P&S to  calculate adding  1/2″ at the hip to match my own.  But what of the other body places for which no measurement was provided?   I hunted for standard measurement charts. If Loes has published a chart, I couldn’t find it. My favs, Burda and Ottobre design, publish pretty good charts, but I can’t be sure any other pattern maker uses these same numbers.   The Big 4  pattern companies really don’t tell you much more than bust, waist and hip (which are not the same as Burda or Otto) but they do add the back waist length.  To my surprise, there is a 2″ difference between my BWL and Burda Otto and the Big 4 charts. For years, I have been making a standard 1″ BWL no matter what pattern size I cut. I think this could be significant.

Determining the size of those other places by measuring the pattern pieces of  LH5202 has 2 issues. 1) it includes Loes idea of needed body and style ease. 2) The pattern isn’t marked for bust, waist, hip or anything else.  I appointed the narrowest circumference as ‘waist’. Measured 7″ down (the distance between my personal waist and hip l) and called that ‘hip’. I measured across the back from notch to notch to determine the back width was 15 -3/4.

I traced the Large and made the 2″ BWL first. In place of my slash and mash method, I followed Kathleen Cheetham’s instructions for making a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment. Then increased the shoulder slope by drawing a mark 5/8″ above the shoulder-neck point and drawing a line from the new point to the shoulder/armscye point.    My back is 15.5″ which is only 1/4″ narrower so I left the back alone.  I measured the ‘bust’ and ‘waist’ I had marked on the pattern. Calculated the difference between my body and those measurements; and decided to leave those two point alone, at least for now. Then plotted my hip point 1/2″ away from the side seam across from the line I  had designated ‘hip’.  I extended the hem straight out from the side seam and the drew a vertical line from hem up to ‘hip’.  I aligned my hip-curve ruler with the original waist and hip curve of the pattern and then pivoted the ruler from the pattern’s waist to my new ‘hip’ before drawing the new side seam line. My pattern looks wearable

I made the same changes to the back but no changes to the sleeve.  I measured the sleeve at the bicep and calculated 4″ ease. That’s good.  Including cuff, the sleeve will finish 1″ longer. I may come back and change the sleeve length. I measured the total circumference of the pattern at bust, waist and hip, subtracting seam allowances and overlap. Then subtracted my measurements. I should have sufficient ease. More than sufficient. I could go down a size if this was a knit or stretch woven.

I’m ready to tackle fabric and test fit tomorrow.

 

Dartless FBA

Back to fitting a non-stretch top and one of my favorite patterns, Loes Hines 5202 the Tunic Blouse.  I started fitting this late last year then got side tracked by Spring 6PAC sewing and fitting pants patterns that should already fit.  Then a new pattern from Louise Cutting caught my fancy and I was off again.  The bitterness of that failure tells me I really need to step back and find out what changes to patterns are required for my aging body. (I believe this is year I out live both my grandparents.  I should feel older than I do instead, I wonder how they got old so young.)   The previous version included in my Spring 6PAC was sewn with only my 2 standard alterations. The same alterations I’ve used for years and years and ….  I could easily see that I had issues.  Fabric puddled in the middle of my back while from the side I could see wide V’s replicating all the way to the hem.  Also from the side it was obvious that my hem rose drastically at the center front.  The diagonal lines dropping off my bust were rather shocking.  I don’t think of myself as being well endowed. Yet the blouse was saying “add more room across the bust”.  These same 3 issues have been evident for quite some time.  I have been ignoring them. Well no more.

I started with tackling room over the bust.  I tried Loes suggested FBA which consists of a bump on the side and adding length at the neck. (It is detail in one of The Look issues. Sorry again, not sure which one.) It might be more successful with knits but definitely didn’t help me with woven garments. I did not want to turn Loes pattern into a darted garment by using the standard FBA instructions.  I just felt that would adversely affect the simplicity and elegance of her design. So when someone recommended Louise Cuttings Dartless FBA  I altered the pattern using her demo on the Threads site.  (I’m so sorry, I can’t find the exact URL.) I used the maximum Louise says can be used (3/4″). I want to see a change even if it is too much change. I still applied my NSA and BWL.  I’m thinking I need more alterations to fit the curves of my body not that a single alteration will cure-all ills past and present.  I found myself hesitating a few times and filled in rather trimmed off when truing lines. In particular, I know I added 1/2″ along the front armscye which may not have been the right decision.

My fabric is a Linen lycra blend. Yes it does have stretch. Honestly I prefer to wear blouses with a little stretch. Makes it so much more comfortable  to reach and move. But it does have the downside of being able to conceal fitting issues.  My fabric is also “not me”.  It is a bright dramatic print. If these alterations aren’t bad, I probably won’t miss the blouse.  In fact, if they work, I may find the blouse sitting in the closet unworn because it is so not me.

One of the things I love about Loes patterns is their simplicity.  I spent 40 minutes one evening tracing and making alterations. 3 hours the next day cutting and sewing. This linen is not stiff. It has more drape than body.  I taped the shoulder seams and front neckline before stitching shoulders and finishing the neckline and facings. I think of linen as being easy to press. This was not difficult but it seemed to get unpressed or wrinkled quite easily.  For the first time I removed the little shovel end from my  Mini Iron and used the ball end.  Really needed it along the curved front neckline but this is the first time I’ve felt that was necessary.  Usually my little  wooden  iron is more than enough to turn that seam and press into place.

Before I share fitting photos, let me tell you that the print made it difficult to see wrinkles or folds.  I applied a sepia filter to my photos, but I’m sharing full color with you.

I’m just not seeing issues in the back. There is a slight dip and pull just above the hip. Makes me think that I should have at least tried to smooth it out before pics.

The front is not much more illuminating. Sure there is some kind of diagonal between 3 and 4 button traveling towards the right. But is it an issue?  I also see sort of a vertical fold just below the shoulder down to about bust level. Is the 1/2″ I added when truing the armscye?  Should it be removed? Ignored?  BTW those are not contrast cuffs. I was checking length before finishing them. But if you can do note that the front sleeve drag line I’ve previously complained about — is not visible.   Is the print hiding it?  Did the FBA fix it?

For me it is the side view that says the most. Can see any back wrinkles (possibly angle of the pic has something to do with that). I see a diagonal from over the bust traveling towards the side but not reaching the side. It reverse and travels downward towards the hem but again not reaching the hem.  Is it a problem? Or just draping fabric? The hems look even front and back but maybe a bit long at the side.

Lastly, I do find this a bit long but it’s good when wearing skinny jeans.  This is a new pair of jeans from the DG2 brand.  Like my previous pairs it has horizontal wrinkles right at the back of the knee. Those are wrinkles which I do not mind at all. If I have to have wrinkles someplace (and I do because I move), back of the knee is the best place for wrinkles to congregate.

I think the dartless FBA has had a positive effect on fitting this pattern.  I still have questions because the print is so vibrant and the little bit of fabric stretch can hide fitting issues.  But, I like it!

 

 

 

5202 Loes Hinse Blouse (4 of 6 Piece Spring Collection)

I continue to work towards my 6 piece spring wardrobe. I’ve realized that the gold and blue color scheme I’m using is probably more of a fall color scheme. But I’m well on the way and nearly finished. So onward…

I’ve completed:

  1. 3rd layer:  Gold Vest
  2. Bottom 1:  No Yoke Blue Microfiber Pants
  3. Bottom 2: Gold Yoga Pants

and now Top #1 (Piece #4) Gold and Blue Blouse  

I’m using a rayon print which I believe I purchased on-line from Fashion Fabrics Club last January.  I love rayon for the way it drapes.  I don’t like that it continues to shrink. Slowly but perceptibly, my rayon print blouses will not fit me 2 years down the road because they’ve shrunk.  Yes, I have weight difficulties. But when the old rayon blouse is too tight and I use the same pattern with not a single adjustment resulting in a new rayon blouse which does fit…. well the old blouse shrunk. Rayon shrinks. Unless it is dry cleaned.  I’m not doing dry cleaning. Period. End of sentence. I also dislike rayon’s tendency to pick up color in the wash. Rayon greys. Slightly with each wash until I notice that it looks old, tired, grayed.  Unless rayon is dry cleaned…. (we’re not doing that route again, OK?)  Despite my objections to rayon, I love the colors, prints and drape. I continue to buy rayon fully understanding that I will have at most 2 seasons of wear. I therefore prefer simple, easy to sew garments. I’m just not willing to invest 80 hours of work into a garment that may be worn a dozen times. (Yes I have an over-abundance of clothing resulting in most of my garments being worn maybe twice or three times per season.)

Under these constraints, Loes Hinse 5202, the Tunic blouse, is a natural choice. It is a simple, shapely blouse which works well with Rayon prints. Loes Hinse’s patterns can criticized as slightly “dated”. Personally, I believe her patterns are contemporary classics. By that I mean they’ve been sewn and highly praised for the last 2 decades.  Dressmakers (especially those of us at home) prize her patterns for the simplicity of style, ease of fit and that the styles can be updated by fabric choices, trims and easily replicated design details. It would take nothing, for example, to change this to a high-low hem line or a two level with the back longer. Loes patterns are easily adaptable after the fit is perfected (or near-perfected.) In addition to my preceding praise, I particularly like the Tunic Blouse for its sleeve finishing. This is the easiest cuff I’ve ever made; and it  is so danged easy. No collar, although I think that could be easily remedied.

I made the shorter length because I’m a shorter person.  The tunic length indicated on the pattern is about 4″ above my knee. Which is how much I shortened this pattern.  I did my standard NSA and BWL. However, I can see, and will point out, that I’m needing more fitting solutions.  Not the patterns fault at all. I’m aging.  My body is changing.  I need more adjustments to patterns if I want to flatter my body. This is such a bold print I’m not sure how visible my fitting issues are. In addition to the length, I’m needing something around the bust.  Nearly every blouse I sew displays diagonal drag lines that start under the fullnessof my bust; proceed across my ribs and tummy towards the high hip and rear.  Usually they are mirrored on the back (more on that in a later paragraph).  I find this perplexing because I’ve never been particularly busty while these drag lines are classic indicators of insufficient ease across the bust.

While I’m not chesty, I definitely have  ample seating room.  I used to fret about it until  then I learned this classic “pear” shape is really good for child -bearing. But those wrinkles mid-back, just above my rear, are the result of velcro butt and nothing else. Before the photo I didn’t pull down and smooth the back.  Easily seen (at least to me) are my uneven shoulders.  I plan to buy shoulder pads of differing  heights (3/8″ and 1/2″).  I plan to put the 3/8″ on my left shoulder and the 1/2″ on my right shoulder. But I haven’t placed my order.   I’m a little cheap. I want to be sure the shipping costs I pay are worth what I buy.  Frankly, I’m repulsed at paying $5 for a pair of shoulder pads along with a $12 shipping charge.  I’ll wait until my purchases accumulate to the point of justifying the $12. Besides, I’m not unhappy about this back view. In fact, I’m pleased.  I have been noticing the rounding of my back indicated by a very light or strained area between my shoulder blades with vertical folds directly below. I don’t see that here.

It is this side view which concerns me most.  I copied a single size (vs the multi-sizes I copy for Ottobre patterns.)   I applied my NSA and BWL before adding a new alteration: lengthening the center front.  Which was relatively simple.  I extended the center front line at the hem 2″.  Just a straight line drawn at the bottom. Boom. Done. Then with my dressmaker’s curve, I connected the new and lower center front with the existing side seam at the existing bottom of the hem. Boom. Done. Side seam not changed. My front hem looks better; i.e. it doesn’t look like it is raising as high in the front as it used to. But that is also because I hemmed the back 1″ higher. Yep, during hemming I turned the the front and side hems 1.25″. I turned up the back hem 2.25″. It helped. Not sure this is the answer but it is progress.

I need to take more side views and more side views with my arm raised. I perused my blouse pictures back 2 years looking to see when the front hem started raising and by how much. I was shocked at how many tops I’ve made but didn’t take side views.  It’s not that I didn’t publish the pics but that I did NOT take the side pics. From now on that will be changed. The side view tells me if the garment is pulling forward or back to accommodate the fleshy parts of my body. It also tells me where the diagonals start and stop.  Here, I can only guess. The diagonals look like they make V’s. It looks like they start in the back at the bottom of my shoulder-blade, cross to the side seam at the bottom of my rib cage and then turn upward and end under the fullest part of my bosom. (However small it may be.) They seem to echo lower down starting just above the waist, crossing to the high hip and then proceeding upward towards my tummy. Without a picture of my lifted arm, I can’t be 100% sure that is true.

I’m not obsessing over these issues in this garment. For starters, I don’t think anyone I personally know (outside marciae) would even see the issues I see. Besides, there is not a doubt in my mind that this blouse with its errors is a much better fit than most of the clothing  most of the people in my community wear. (It’s not that they don’t care, it’s that they make the best choices they can from the RTW available.) Besides that, all of winter, most of spring and fall and even part of summer, the blouse will practically be covered by my vests (which I wear to carry my phone and other stuff).    More importantly, to me, this is a fitting-base.  This contains my standard NSA and BWL along with an attempt to correct the rising front hem. It is a starting point going forward towards a better fit for my current body.

LH 5208 FrankenPattern

I had a second  fabric an  ITY, purchased from Fabricmart, which I could not return to my stash without considerable effort. As with the previous post, I wanted  a quick and easy project, but, ya’ know, I just didn’t want another plain Tshirt or exact duplicate of anything in my closet; and I really didn’t want to take the time to fit a pattern.

 

I’ve been perusing Style Arc, an Australian pattern company with more than a little interest. I was inspired by both the posts at SG and the pics at Style arc of  The Adele Top

…BUT (you knew that was coming)  I wanted to make a top now.  I didn’t want to order a pattern from an international company, pay the humongous shipping fees, and wait for 2 weeks.  I wanted to get this done.  The easiest thing to do was  a Frankenpattern.  I chose Loes Hines Bianca Sweater 5208  and chalked a new hemline right on the fabric.

 

Then I realized, I could mix it up a bit more by changing the sleeve.  I used the sleeve from Loes Hines 5202.

 

 

Well I cut the sleeve from 5202 and crossed my fingers.  I wasn’t sure how this much larger sleeve was going to work. To make it work, I had 2 factors on my side.  (1) ITY is a knit and stretches pretty good. (2) The differential feed on my serger. Yep I set the differential to 1.5; matched center sleeve to shoulder; placed the sleeve on the feed-dogs  and  I held on tight to the matched side seams.  PIECE OF CAKE. I’m tellin’  you, you wouldn’t know this sleeve was not drafted for this top.

 

 

Frankenpattern-ed from LH5208 and 5202

 

I have this pattern, 5208, adjusted for a 1-1/4″ hem.  I was really concerned about whether I would like the asymmetrical hem.  I’m often drawn to such details, but then fuss constantly when wearing the garment.  When I added the angled hem, I planed for a twice-turned, 1/4″ hem and the possibility of whacking the thing off. So when worn, the top is a little too long.

 

Yes I’ve already worn it.  I had planned to take pictures so that I could show the proportions on me.  It just wasn’t one of my good days and that didn’t happen.  I don’t really care for tunic length garments, anymore.  40 pounds ago I used to wear them constantly.  A slim pant combined with a tunic length top is very slimming. I wore the look so often, I just don’t want to wear it now. I was surprised, and a bit pleased, as I’d catch a glimpse of myself in the mirror and say, “I really don’t look bad at all.”   So although I can’t show you how it looked, I can tell you that it was good.  I can also say, I really wasn’t bothered by this hem detail. The placement and length is not only good on me, but the asymmetrical quality didn’t worry me.

 

Back View

 

The first time I used this pattern, I was working with a Bamboo Knit.  I find that Bamboo has some of the qualities of Slinky Knits.  Bamboo tends to be heavy and stretches both length- and width-wise.  Initially, I made a 1″ back-waist length adjustment and a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment.  On the envelope, I’ve noted that that for Bamboo and Slinky fabrics I need to make the pattern at least 1/2″ narrower and shorter with plans to shorten even more after wearing.  I bring this up, because ITY doesn’t have the same effect. I was expecting more of a sweater-knit type fit. Sweater knits always seem to have a little too much ease, but are fine lengthwise. The ITY does appear to be fine lengthwise. I mean it is the length I expected with the addition of the asymmetrical hem.  But width-wise, it was a surprise.  The shoulder is too wide and I could stand another 1/2″ ease from the waist down.  I have marked my pattern accordingly. I can’t let the sides seams out –they are already sewn with 1/4″ seams.  The only place which is bad, is in the front at the belt buckle.  I need my belts.  They are my way of adjusting the waist of my pants on an as needed basis.

 

And I write all that fabric info because of recent comments on SG.  It’s true, ejvc, there is no such thing as a cut-N-sew pattern.  You always have to take into account the characteristics of fabric.