Last year this was billed as a “woven sweater knit”. I was curious as to whether it was the same technique I use on my home knitter or if the fashion industry was once again playing fast and loose with the lingo. I mean, it is hard to tell what you are buying if they don’t use correct terminology. Anyway I bought 2 yards. Not what I would consider a “sweater knit”. Not comfy, cushy, wooly thick. Wouldn’t trust it to keep me warm in Iceland. It is more like a lighter blouse/top weight Ponte but the weave/the stitch is the same as I can produce at home. A thread is carried along the face of the fabric and periodically looped by a knit stitch to hold it in place. The knit on the back is a sewing-thread fine yarn. When I use knit-weaving on my home machine, the knitting becomes very firm. Stretch is definitely lost. This fabric has a 45% stretch. Possibly not as much as expected of “sweater knits” but still a decent amount of give.
I used Silhouette Patterns 195 after adding ease to front and back sides and sleeve seams. Borrowed the easy-to-sew placket From Angela Wolf’s 1492 Linda Tunic pattern. I was going to make the placket longer so that it would allow easy access to my port. Then decided to keep it the same length so I would have a better idea of how much to lengthen.
I planned and carefully cut the placket strips and inserted coated hair elastics in lieu of buttonholes. Then I finished the neckline with a simple binding. I do love this placket. Other than length of the strips, prep needs to be accurate. But then you just stitch on the line and clip where indicated.
I want you to know I carefully matched stripes at sides seams and back. The back I pinned every other stripe. It shifted. The sides I pinned every stripe, they held in place under the needle. I need to write a big note on my envelope containing the back pattern piece. It needs to say “DO NOT USE WITH LARGE PRINTS, STRIPES OR PLAIDS”.
I match back, front and sleeves at the underarm which nearly always results in a great match across the side-view.
What I’m really interested in on this side view is how the back hem is not straight across. It seems to be lifting just a bit. While the back feels perfectly comfortable, I’m thinking more and more that I need to increase my RBA.