Having decided I might use Sonya’s blouse again, I transferred my alterations to the tissue copy; folded originals and put in a 9×12 mailing envelope and was putting my copy in another envelope…. when it occurred to me I should just do the sleeveless version now. In quick order I decide I should take it up a notch by narrowing the shoulder and creating a neckline more flattering for me. I traced the back and front of the upper bodice/yoke sections. Marked 1/2″ from the armscye edge and that’s where I lined up my sleeveless template. I can understand why Peggy seems short on words. This is so easy. It raised the armhole, narrowed the shoulder and created a sleeveless armscye in about 5 seconds. You just slap the sleeveless template down there and run your pen along the outside. Since this is a sleeveless, presumably summer garment, I also widened the neckline. Again measuring 1/2″ from the neckline edge along the shoulder. On the back, I aligned my curve with the mark and the existing CB neckline; drew my new back neckline. On the front, I made by 1/2″ mark on the shoulder but also marked 1/2″ up from the bottom yoke edge. I traced a V neckline between the two marks again using my french curve. It is a shallow V. Making the changes to the sleeveless bodice was really quick. 5 minutes or less.
I chose a fabric, pressed and laid it and my pattern pieces out on my cutting table. Turned off the light and went upstairs. This is my habit. I find it gives me time to review the changes and plans I’ve made. Sometimes I remember something really important. This time I realized I was not taking advantage of the white and yellow strip seersucker. On my first layout I was matching stripes when I could have been playing with them. Next day I spent a few minutes drawing bias lines on the center front and upper bodice pieces. I laid the sides out on the straight of grain;
upper bodice cross grain. Center front and center back are on the bias.
While this pattern isn’t quite a TNT, it’s so close. I loved how quickly it came together. In an hour and 20 minutes I had basted the side seams, serged and stitched all the others; applied my facings, buttonholes and buttons. I was ready for a first try on which I expected to be good… but not perfect.
It did not disappoint. I spent a few quick sessions tweaking the seams. I took the underarm in 7/8″ zeroing about 5″ down; increased the curve of the princess darts about 1/4″ above the waist; and offset the back to add 1/2″ ease. My butt still needs a little ease. Someone will suggest a sway back alteration but I’m looking at the side diagonal pulling from the hip and the tightness across the hip. I think I need a little more ease.
Overall, it fits a little more nicely then my previous short sleeve.
The extra inch I added at the hem, makes the proportions more pleasing though I don’t discount that the slightly more fitted silhouette contributes. I’m on the verge of calling this a TNT. As I said, I need to add a little more hip room and I think I’d like to tweak the fit in the back a little closer. But I like it.