6299 Red Crinkle

That thought I had at the end of yesterday’s post? It went to an embroidery project already in progress. I had intended to use my TRT for this 100% cotton crinkle fabric. Crinkle acts like a cross-wise knit and benefits from less circumference.

I embroider a rectangle slightly larger than the front pattern piece. To precisely place the embroidery where I desire,   I created a full pattern for the front only.

That’s the only pattern change. Swear. Yet you can see that the pattern which was  too tight yesterday – even with minimal 1/4″ SA — is now exceedingly  roomy

It won’t always look this roomy. Typically when I launder crinkles I will broom-stick it i.e. twist tightly until it twists back on itself and secure with rubber bands or nylons. Wash and dry until the interior is dry (sometimes that takes a few hours).   When it comes out of the dryer, I smooth out and even press the worse creases. The resulting garment  will be much closer to the body but still very comfortable.  I’ve not broom-sticked this top because I wanted to ensure that all the embroidery stabilizer was removed in the wash. Next time though….

I haven’t sewn with crinkles in a long time. I’ve forgotten what to how to handle them. Normally I prefer to finish necklines and armscyes with bindings but I realized the front neckline was going to be far to low and used the facing to terminate it much higher on my body; and big facings so they can be secured much lower on the princess seams. I actually hate the standard facing because it flaps about. A big facing like this, will become a bumpy underlayer. Secured by armscyes and tacked to the princess seams eliminates my facing issues.

I measured the armscye and decided at 22″ the crinkle had stretched too far during handling.  I cut my FOE to 21″ planning to have a 1/2″ excess on either end and a 20″ finished armscye.  In retrospect, I must be wrong someplace. The armscye is very high.  Not too tight but too high. I did not trim the 3/8″ SA, my mistake, but even that would not have made the armscye low enough for my tastes. Something still to tweak.

Serging the seams was a good choice. I don’t believe any of them were stretched or at least not stretched enough they couldn’t easily recover with a burst of steam.  The hem however was close to disaster.  I chose the knit, blind-hem stitch.  For the first time machine hemming on the Dream Machine failed me.  There were several large spaces as well as many 1/2″ gaps where the hem stitches didn’t secure. Usually it’s just a matter of keeping the fold bumped up next to the guide bar of the R foot. Another thing to tweak and puzzle out in the future.

I’d say that using my accidental Knit Version of 6299 was a good choice for the crinkle fabric. But then again the crinkle will adapt for me.  I could still need to tweak the Knit Versions for knit fabrics.

 

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