6299 2nd Look

After I finished 6299, I transferred my changes to the pattern pieces. I realized that I may have made some changes too soon. Such as I shortened the armscye early in the process. At the final fitting, my armscye was too high and too tight.  I decided to start fresh. I’m sure this isn’t the last time I will trace this pattern. It’s just that good for me. To preserve the tissue, I applied  interfacing to the original pattern pieces.

Pre-muslin changes:

  • Marked original tissue 5/8″ SA at empire line of all 8 pieces.  Overlapped upper and corresponding lower pieces along this 5/8″ SA
  • Marked new hem (Blouse -10.5) to offset the length changed by eliminating the empire seam.
  • Traced Size 16 (resulting in 4 pattern pieces vs original 8)
  • Added 1.5″ to side seams (side front and side back pieces)
  • Added 5/8″ RBA
  • Marked 1/4″ SA (-3/8″) along  all seam lines except necklines and side seams (to which I’d just added 1.5″)
  • Marked 3/8″ front and 1/2″ back  princess alteration between armscye and mid-point
  • Trimmed all excess tissue
  • Walked and trued all seams.

At this point, I have recreated Burda 2009-03 #124 which  may seem like a waste of time. However I hadn’t completely finished fitting #124 and was stumped by the final needed change. Instead of continuing that fitting experience, I will  work exclusively on 6299.

My next fabric is a 100% cotton sateen, blouse weight, purchased from Craftsy just a few weeks ago.  Looked much more interesting on-line than IRL, so if I won’t mind ruining it. I laid out the pattern pieces, cut and serged together front with side front; back with side back; and shoulders well, with shoulders. Then I basted side seams with WST and took my first set of pics. I was expecting to tweak the side seam at the underarm because none of my pattern alterations had addressed that issue.  But I wasn’t expecting this:

I was positive, that other than overlapping the top with corresponding bottom pieces along the empire line,  I had but copied the previous changes. (Except for underarm ease and shoulder depth which I delayed until fitting).  I was stunned to see and feel how tight the new version is.   But I thought, I’ve got a little fabric to play with to fix this.  I stitched the side at the underarms 1″ deeper merging out to a 1/4″ side seam allowance just before the waist and all the way to the hem. Because I could see it clearly sticking out, I also increased the back princess seam  1/4″ between  armscye and  midpoint. I thought “That will do it!”.

Well no. Not exactly:

PS I’m liking this fabric even less but realize it is my fault. I should have fussy cut i.e. carefully place the print.

I’m not quite sure how I lost the ease of the empire version but it’s clearly gone and I don’t have enough seam allowance to make it up.

In fact, this  reminds me of the fitting I’d get if I used a pattern drafted for knits instead of wovens. Hmm which gives me an idea.  I transfer the few changes made. Wrote in bold letters ‘KNIT’ and put it away.  Hmmmm that gives me an idea…..

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