After I finished 6299, I transferred my changes to the pattern pieces. I realized that I may have made some changes too soon. Such as I shortened the armscye early in the process. At the final fitting, my armscye was too high and too tight. I decided to start fresh. I’m sure this isn’t the last time I will trace this pattern. It’s just that good for me. To preserve the tissue, I applied interfacing to the original pattern pieces.
- Marked original tissue 5/8″ SA at empire line of all 8 pieces. Overlapped upper and corresponding lower pieces along this 5/8″ SA
- Marked new hem (Blouse -10.5) to offset the length changed by eliminating the empire seam.
- Traced Size 16 (resulting in 4 pattern pieces vs original 8)
- Added 1.5″ to side seams (side front and side back pieces)
- Added 5/8″ RBA
- Marked 1/4″ SA (-3/8″) along all seam lines except necklines and side seams (to which I’d just added 1.5″)
- Marked 3/8″ front and 1/2″ back princess alteration between armscye and mid-point
- Trimmed all excess tissue
- Walked and trued all seams.
At this point, I have recreated Burda 2009-03 #124 which may seem like a waste of time. However I hadn’t completely finished fitting #124 and was stumped by the final needed change. Instead of continuing that fitting experience, I will work exclusively on 6299.
My next fabric is a 100% cotton sateen, blouse weight, purchased from Craftsy just a few weeks ago. Looked much more interesting on-line than IRL, so if I won’t mind ruining it. I laid out the pattern pieces, cut and serged together front with side front; back with side back; and shoulders well, with shoulders. Then I basted side seams with WST and took my first set of pics. I was expecting to tweak the side seam at the underarm because none of my pattern alterations had addressed that issue. But I wasn’t expecting this:
I was positive, that other than overlapping the top with corresponding bottom pieces along the empire line, I had but copied the previous changes. (Except for underarm ease and shoulder depth which I delayed until fitting). I was stunned to see and feel how tight the new version is. But I thought, I’ve got a little fabric to play with to fix this. I stitched the side at the underarms 1″ deeper merging out to a 1/4″ side seam allowance just before the waist and all the way to the hem. Because I could see it clearly sticking out, I also increased the back princess seam 1/4″ between armscye and midpoint. I thought “That will do it!”.
Well no. Not exactly:
I’m not quite sure how I lost the ease of the empire version but it’s clearly gone and I don’t have enough seam allowance to make it up.
In fact, this reminds me of the fitting I’d get if I used a pattern drafted for knits instead of wovens. Hmm which gives me an idea. I transfer the few changes made. Wrote in bold letters ‘KNIT’ and put it away. Hmmmm that gives me an idea…..