This was the hardest garment to sew. The pattern was easy. Actual sewing was a cinch. It was the choices of fabric, trim cuff finish that stymied me. I was brunt when my Faux Surplice went so wrong and then was destroyed by the slip of the ripper. I still wanted/needed a plain top appropriate for South Dakota spring. But I didn’t want “just another Tee”. I wanted it to stand on its own as a garment rather than exclusively being a supporting player. Supporting players are very important. In this case however the Tee might become the star should the weather become very warm, as it often does during SD springs. Then again it needs to submit to being covered up and becoming a supporting player when the weather cools sufficiently that a 3rd and 4th layer become necessary. Changeable weather is the reality of South Dakota Springs.
I mulled over possibilities. Delaying until it was almost too late. I realized that the Colette Sorbetto , wildly popular with the sewing community a few years ago, had crossed into RTW and was being interpreted as an inverted pleat and waist released and several other minor variations in addition of Colette original pleated front. I realized this was the easy change I wanted that would make the garment both supporting cast and star as needed.
I chose to use this double-knit fabric which I think I purchased from Nancy’s Notions. I questioned the statement ‘ ideal for jackets, pants, tops, and skirts’. It’s been my experience that fabrics I’d wear for pants are not the same as what I would wear for tops. I went with my gut and ordered royal blue yardage for a top. When it arrived, I knew I was correct.
I made 2 changes while cutting out the fabric. I placed the center front 1.25″ away from the fold. Secondly, I had decided upon a faux cuff. I added 1″ to the length of the sleeve. I spent a lot of time making sure that center pleat is as perfect as I can make it. I chalked the lines; then based and heartily pressed. This fabric is not going to make a sharp pleat. I’m hoping that it will keep the press-lines so that I can easily press the pleat back into place. I stitched the pleat first, shoulders next and then finished the neckline. After that, stitch sleeve to side piece and finished the cuff. I serge finished the hemline and turned it up 1-1/4″ and stitched from about 2″ on either seam of the underarm before inserting 1″ elastic. I made this very close-fitting. My elastic finished into an 8″ circle which is only 1″ larger than my wrist. The elastic has to stretch to get over my hand! The only sewing I’d criticise is the closing the opening that I left over the underarm seam. That was a darn tight place to get my machine foot into. My stitching is not perfectly straight and one of the 4 ends of stitching does not meet. I really must think this further through before choosing this finish again. I can do better. If only I could remember how.
I top stitched the hem in place, started beneath the pleat on one side, stitching all the way around and end under the pleat on the other side. This left the pleat itself, free.
I did not wear a camisole for pics. I think I need to Roger-up and wear a camisole under all my tops. My figure is such that a camisole helps my tops to slide over my body. I discovered this in Nov of 2015 when working with sweater knits. Made numerous camisoles (think I have 8) and wore them religiously. Every pic proved that a cami, a slick cami was a good choice for me. I think that’s what I need to do with all my tops. Put something under the tops so that they don’t cling to my body. That’s not going to help my pics.
Several posts ago, someone suggested I give consideration to a Full-Tummy-Alteration. I think they have a point. Especially since that’s the only thing ruining the front view of my blouse. The back, I dunno
I did not expect those 2 strong diagonals. Haven’t seen them at all before this pic. Is it possible that the fabric is too drapey? Although I do have to posit, that may be the result of my sharply pulling down the back side seams just before the pic. My goal is to pull the garment out of the center of my back where it is pushed by my butt. I find it interesting that those diagonals are appearing right above where I pull.
Still I think the camisole is the right decision. One a day. Every day. Summer may be a little warmer this year.
Finally, I do want to say, I love this fabric. I plan to buy 3 or 4 cuts next payday. It behaved beautifully during the construction process from layout to hemming. (Hemming is usually my final step.) It did not make a crisp pleat but then I seldom want a crisp pleat. The blouse looks better on the hanger then on me. Without my body to distort the fabric, it makes a gorgeous garment. This kind of garment I want several hanging in my closet and I’m happy to have it as my 2nd top for my Spring 6PAC