A collar for the TRJ-B

I wanted a collar. In my mind a classic blouse needs a classic notch collar.  The Variations package does not have a notch collar so I set about creating my own.

Well, not entirely. I copied the collar from Connie Crawford’s Camp Shirt #5047. Then measured the neckline of the TRJ-B and subtracted 1″.  I folded out enough length so that the tissue was the same as the neckline -1″.  Then I cut two. Interfaced. Stitched. Turned inside out.  I basted the collar into the neckline. But didn’t feel entirely comfortable.

So I turned the collar again stitched 1/2″ in along the collar edge.  Trimmed. Turned. Pinned to collar edge. Twice more and the collar looked good, except not quite as wide as I entirely envisioned. Not entirely satisfied, I finished my blouse.

I like the way it looks in front, but seems a bit narrow across the back.  I will use the collar again, I’m just not sure at this moment what my changes will be. Definitely want a wider collar across the back. I’m thinking, of making  a series of blouse each with a slightly wider collar until I settle on a collar I like that also looks really good on the TRJ-B.

I do like the blouse,muchly.  Possibly it’s the ITY knit fabric and the geometric print. I wouldn’t say I love those colors, but they’re really very nice.

Somehow, the sleeve is slightly longer  this version but not so that I’m going to do anything about it. I’m more concerned about the difference between right and left side views:

The left is exactly what I want. However the right is showing the effects of the lowered shoulder.  I made no changes to the pattern and no changes during cutting.  When stitching, I stitched the right 1/8″ deeper than the left i.e. the left SA=1/4″, right SA = 3/8″. That is apparently not enough.  I must remember to make a  greater difference. Also interesting, and I have no explanation, the  front is rouched along the side piece while the left is pretty smooth. No idea why this is a problem now except that drag lines and errors are more evident in light colors.  I will walk the seams and recheck the notches.  Sometimes thought, it’s just the sewist. Not the fabric or the pattern.

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2 thoughts on “A collar for the TRJ-B

  1. I know you have worked through a very long series of minor changes, but i had a thought (not always a good thing…you can ask my kids) but i offer it anyway. From the picture on the side where you have moved the shoulder seam deeper, is it possible you need to move the whole sleeve unit down? It almost appears in the picture as if your arm wants to sit down a little and is creating some lines because it wants more space below where it currently sits. That is likely a very simplistic view, but occasionally i am in the right neighborhood, even if not the correct address.

    On the collar front-congrats on trying a new feature! Perhaps you can measure some collars that you like for sizing instead of more trial and error (ala Peggy…)

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    1. Sounds like a great idea with one catch: this is a dolman sleeve and I don’t know how to redraft. Adding at the top will restore all the drag lines previously removed. Adding at the bottom distorts the sleeve and the connected side piece. Adding more length along the sleeve cap makes it gather when added to the bodice because the sleeve is also part of the princess line. I have been taking away length along that line so that I don’t have gathers. Every corrective action I can think of makes something else worse. I’m just too dumb to figure this out. As for the collar, I should have believed Connie Crawford’s drafting. I believed my eyes that said “it looks too wide” during the unfinished basting stages. When all is done, well I should have followed Connie’s drafting. VBG. However, I will keep your advice in mind. I’ve been unhappy with sleeves in general for several years. They feel comfortable but have more wrinkles than I would desire. If I figure out what is wrong with the set-in sleeves, I may be able to fix this dolman sleeve as well. Thanks for you thoughts and input

      bev
      .and yes ideas are always a good thing

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