For my 3rd Top, I decided to use a poly-lycra solid-blue knit. This was the most horrible curling/furling/rolling knit-fabric I think I’ve ever worked. It curled tightly as it was cut. Usually when that happens, I can place the curl side down on the throat plate and slide it up into the serger needles. The fabric will unfurl and the serging will keep it relatively flat. Nothing doing with this particular fabric. It curled and could not be handled into unfurling. It was in fact this fabric which resulted in my Rolling Edges post. After testing, I cut the fabric and painted the edges with Terial Magic. When dry, I replaced the pattern pieces and transferred markings.
I also decided to use the TRT pattern which should not be surprising since it is not only the most recently fit, it’s also been tested several times and proven. I’ve discovered that sewing large groups of garments, like 6PAC’s and SWAP’s is best done with TNT’s.
I vacillated between sewing the TRT exactly as drafted or doing something a little different. That indecisiveness is the reason the Blue T is next-to-last being sewn. I considered neckline changes, various embellishments and hem finishes. When it came time to cut fabric, I cut 2 fronts. I had decided to make a faux surplice front. Faux because one front would be unaltered, but the other would be shaped to resemble a surplice. I prepared the surplice side first. Drawing the line using my curve; trimming excess fabric and then finishing the edge using a slightly new to me technique. I’ve often stitched and turned that edge. The last few surplice tops, I’ve added clear elastic to stabilize the edge. This time I fed the 3/8″ elastic through the oval hole in my serger foot
I can’t claim credit for this idea. Until someone at SG mentioned this was the way they added elastic, I’d always put it under the foot. (Which I still would have to do for elastic wider that 1/2″). It works really well, once the needles are sunk into the elastic. Not much effort to get the elastic through the hole and under the needles, either. I did want to apply a little tension to the elastic along roughly the middle third of the surplice. This will be a technique I have to practice some more because…
I finished up the T except for establishing a connection on the left side. (I intended a right-side faux-surplice crossing the body and securing on the left.) I mean I had everything done except that connection. I had hemmed. I had top stitched. I had double top stitched. Neckline (cross-grain cut self-fabric) was attached, serged and double-top stitched. Dang thing was done. D_O_N_E. Done! I just needed to decide at what level to place the connection. I pinned the connection in place and took pics. Switched the connection up an inch, down an inch looking for the perfect place and taking pics all the while. When I went upstairs and looked closely at my pics, all I could think is “Does anyone need a wet-nurse? I seem to have 1 boob and a comfy tummy available.”
Obviously, I put too much tension on the elastic and gathered the surplice beyond what was needed. I’m reluctant to rip and redo because that’s a lot of ripping. Serged elastic? Turned and double-top stitched? Yuk. I do not want to be removing that. I’m further discouraged by looking at the sides:
I absolutely did not expect the gathering which occurred. Is that because of the multiple layers of fabric (3 on the left) or did the Terial magic affect the seam?
Whatever caused my problem, I have 2 6PAC garments I don’t want to wear until they are fixed; or …. I could have 2 wadders and a failed 6PAC. I definitely need a break.