Tabula Rasa JACKET

A hunt through my stash for fabric completely changed the my thinking since I did the pattern comparison on Feb 27.   I discovered a voile/lawn fabric languishing in my resources room for about 20 years. Lined or unlined it would make a nice blouse. It’s too transparent to be worn unlined, unless used as an over blouse or jacket. Ah perfect! Instead of immediately trying to convert this pattern to a blouse, I decided to trace and cut the size large jacket. 

I made few changes to the large tracing.

  • I traced the A-B cup even though I successfully used the C cup front on the T.  I’m just not certain that the C-cup did anything for  my barely-B cup body.
  • I immediately made a 5/8″ slope adjustment to the shoulders
  • Added a 1/2″ RBA rotating the RBA to the neckline darts as per Fit-For-Art’s instructions and video(I apologize I lost the link.  When I find it again, I will update this page.)
  • Learning from my previous issues with the T, I made two 5/8″ darts in the sleeve cap to offset the changes made to the shoulder slope.

This is the kind of fabric that kind stretch out of shape before you get to the sewing machine . My first step was reinforcing necklines and shoulder seams with bias tape.  I’m using the flared side panel because I think it has a slightly feminine effect and decided to further that by adding trim along the neck-band.  I skipped the WST this time choosing to baste with 4mm stitches all the seams at the 5/8″ designated seam allowance before the first try on.

The first try-on said I was very close.  I need shoulder pads. I waffled because they can be seen in this fabric. My standard is adding 1/4-3/8″  shoulder pads to my blouses. I think my blouses look much better with shoulder pads.  Without the shoulder pads 2 deep diagonal form. The diagonals that indicate shoulder slope or round back adjustments are needed.

otherwise, as a jacket or 3rd layer, I think the fit is fine. I proceeded to finish without further adjustments and I was able to spend extra time trimming the band

I attached a 3/4″ wide lace and couched a decorative thread on the public side.  Ran out of lace, so on the private side I skipped the lace but couched the decorative thread.  When the jacket is worn, it is rolled at the collar and trim shows whether looking at the public or private sides.

This was a 2 day project (each session taking about 4 hours).  I half-way expected success because of FFA’s instructions to make the same changes to both jacket and T. Still I was delighted to find out they told the truth.

 

So, I’m not wild about the final garment. It’s OK b-u-t

I really don’t like the shoulder pads showing.  It’s a fit issue. I need the shoulder pads. Will want the pattern to stay drafted for shoulder pads for other garments. This lawn/voile, not a good idea.  The fabric clings.  It is an over-garment that doesn’t want to go over. During pics, I realized the sleeve is  too long.

It’s in the magic closet for now.  There are weeks to go  before I would choose the wear this ‘jacket’. Despite the pics above, I do think it fits and works as a jacket.

I’m really glad I made the jacket version and didn’t try to immediately make a blouse.  I realize that it’s going to take more than just adjusting the circumference to make the jacket into a blouse. While I don’t anticipate buying the sleeve and cuff variations, I did order the Shirt Variations which will make it easier to transition the pattern to a blouse.   I might order the Rain or Shine Variations and the Sporty Details the later for the instructions on narrowing the pant leg something that I fail at repeatedly.  I’m almost sad FFA doesn’t offer more variations and more patterns.  I think this pattern line really does accommodate my curves.  I like the idea of buying a pattern for which I won’t need massive alterations.

 

TISSUE Issues

  • Changes made:
    • Trace Size Large
    • 1/2″ RBA rotated to neck darts
    • Shoulder slope increase 5/8″
  • To do:
    • Narrow shoulder adjustment 1/2″
    • Trim seam allowances to my standard 1/4″ and 1/2″
    • Shorten sleeve 1.5″

 

 

 

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