I dwaddled and delayed making needed tweaks. I was unsure.
Fitting is somewhat like diagnosing a bodily illness. Sure, when you show up at the hospital with a bone sticking out, they know pretty quickly what to do. But when you show up saying, “I hurt all over and I’m just so exhausted”, it takes medical staff a little longer. Truth is our bodies have only so many obvious symptoms that we report: pain, inflammation, unusual bodily bumps and a few more but not many. Medical personal have to start putting together what they know about the body with what you are telling them. Oh and there’s that thing called referred pain. I know about that. I showed up at the dentist office having made an appointment a few days earlier. Only now I’m in pain. He asks me “So what’s this about pain?” I reply “I know this tooth chipped. That’s when I made the appointment. I can see the tooth is chipped. But it’s the tooth directly opposite that hurts.” That’s when he told me about referred pain.
Our fitting diagnoses can also take a circular route. They say ‘read the wrinkles’ and ‘the wrinkles point at the issue”. I’ve noticed, thought, that the wrinkles have two ends which point. How can I be sure, for example a wrinkle from the front crotch is pointing to a short front crotch, a full front thigh, or a short back crotch? Give up? On me it’s nearly always a short back crotch! So I look at the wrinkles on my 195 top. I’ve made the obvious corrections the usual amounts. Am I still looking at obvious causes? Or should I be considering something else?
I really had to agreed that these:
looked like a needed RBA. I was puzzled and hesitant because the downward diagonal didn’t seem to be accompanied by fabric stretch across the center back. I had a 1/2″ CB seam (added for the purpose of making an RBA) and decided to use it to test. I restitched that seam so that it curved from neck out to cross back and returned to waist. I increased the width at the cross back 1/2″. Did that work?
Unfortunately that would be a “no”. The same diagonals are present from shoulder-blade to side seam at the hip.
Perhaps not enough ease at the hip. No pic above also shows the result of stitching the side seams at 1/4″ instead of 1/2″. In fact letting out the seams was a mistake. I altered my tissue for 1/2″ side seams. At 1/2″ the front armscye is nice and smooth
Add a little more ease and the front armscyes are now gaping.
The sides views weren’t improved either.
So what’s next. I started by returned the side seams and center back to the 1/2″ seam depth I desired. Perplexed, I measured the armscyes. Measuring right at the edge (which I was thinking would be a nice place to wrap FOE), but not including seams allowances at the shoulder or side seam give me an 17-7/8 armscye. Measuring inward at the seam line as Peggy drafted, 19.5″. My minimum armscye, the armscye I would want for leotards and scuba suits is 19.5. Ummm… I opted to lower the armscye 1/2″ and take more pics.
Lowering the armscye had an interesting effect. I lowered it 1/2″. That’s all. However, compare the two underarm pics
The underarm in the right hand pic (and looking at my right side underarm) is considerably lower than the left. I measured. I measured down from the underarm 1/2″ and redrew the sides to curve smoothly. I trimmed the excess, then serge finished. It’s hard for me to understand why the underarm looks 1-1.5″ lower.
Good news is that the diagonal wrinkles, as seen in the side views, are better
Not completely gone, but much lessened. So what now.
Well, I wear sleeveless tops in spring, summer and fall. I never want a neckline that high during any of those seasons. So I trimmed the neckline to the highest I will wear and I finished it with FOE. I didn’t have to finish it. But sometimes, I start something and I’m not satisfied until it is all the way done. Then I looked carefully at the back alterations I’ve made to previous garments. This is not exactly a brand new fitting issue. I drew a line across the back where I’ve previously altered the back and made 1/4″ darts at the sides which zero at CB. It seems as though I need extra length at cross back, but then it’s too much length at the side only a few inches lower
My back photo caught me just removing my hands from settling the back into place. So, it
The final proof would be sewing up one of my pastel knits. Unfortunately, I’m not inclined to make another sleeveless garment at the moment. Temps have once again dropped to the point photo sessions being uncomfortable. For now, I’m listing the accumulated changes
- Size 5W across shoulders and armscyes; 7W down side seam
- 1″ tuck above bust on both front and back pieces.
- Shoulder slope increased to 1/2″ left, 3/4″ right
- Decrease bust circumference 1.5″ starting at underarm zero on side seam 4″ lower
- RBA 1/2″
- Add 3/8″ seam allowance to CB
- Cross bust dart 1/2″ at side seams, zero at 3″ towards CB.
- Length add 2.5″ (1.25″ length, 1.25″ hem)
- Lower underarm 1/4″ (may need to be increased)
I’m this close <>. I count it a success, my first real success with fitting Silhouette Patterns. In the next few weeks the weather will warm and I will return to tweak my 195 sleeveless top. For now, there are other things that need to be done. If it stays cool long enough, I might take on the long sleeved top.