SP195: Continuing Muslin #1 Fitting

I did not get back to finish fitting of Muslin 1 as quickly as I wanted. There was a full day in-between and limited time when I again  picked up the muslin.

Time to start considering the sleeve, so the first thing I did was reduce cap height by making a 1/2″ tuck. Then trued the cap shape by using my french curve. I also trimmed 1.75″ from the side seams because that’s what the bodice required at the underarm. A nice side effect is I can now cut 3 full sleeves out of the remaining fabric — if I want.   For now, I cut one sleeve sans hem.  No point in hemming the muslin and cutting off right at the hem fold will tell me unequivocally whether the sleeve is long enough. Or not.  I stitched this sleeve into the left armscye…

and turned my attention to the right armscye.   I read my replies sometimes and think I’m being defensive and there’s no need. I have many new readers. Some will only be interested in my blog as long as I’m working with a Silhouette Pattern. A few have been readers ever since Swap 2003. People who have been reading since 2003 have heard my every whine and rant multiple times. They are sick of it.  A recent reader has no clue of what I’ve done which is evidenced by the repeat suggestions I get. Sometimes my response to the repeat suggestion is less, …. um…. , warm than it could be.  So I decided to repeat some of the fitting suggestions which failed me in the past making, hopefully, a more inclusive response. Besides, Peggy’s draft and fitting procedures are not exactly like any other. It could be those failed alterations would work perfectly in conjunction with her patterns.

So looking at the right armscye with all its gaping and diagonal wrinkles, I decided to pinch the shoulder slope. Not that I haven’t already.  At the last fitting the right shoulder slope was increased to 1″. Now I increased it to 1.5″

This is the ‘right’ shoulder. I edited the pic, cropping and mirroring as well as rotating. So don’t let that confuse you. Please accept this is the garment shoulder which sits on top of my right shoulder.

Even at 1″ I was already modifying the depth of the neck. As drafted the neck is almost uncomfortably right up against my neck in front.    When I increased the shoulder slope to 1″ , the neckline started choking.  I scooped the neck 1/2″ and regained some comfort which I’m already losing with the 1.5″ slope. I particularly want you to notice how the neck is gaping after the slope was increased:

I’m also sorry to say that there is no significant improvement in the armscye gaping just above the bust

I think that’s more clearly seen when I repost the front previous to changing the shoulder slope

If anything, the previous fit was better.

After increasing the shoulder slope, the back is no better either:

Looking at the fit before increasing the shoulder slope to 1.5″

I don’t see any improvement by increasing the shoulder slope from 1″ to 1.5″. Both Connie Crawford and Nancy Zieman have said in various places (wish I had links but some of it is in their hard copy books), that increasing the shoulder slope beyond 1/2″ is ineffective. I may be a little different since the slope also helps with my rounding back.

ETA Peggy in her March 9 2015 broadcast “From the Start: using Silhouette Patterns” along about min 52:00 says only so much can be fixed by pinching shoulder. She suggests increasing bust dart and if neither work change size or bust cup.

My conclusion:  on my personal body increasing the shoulder slope beyond 3/4″ does not reduce any wrinkles, does not reduce gaping and in fact increases discomfort.  If I were to leave the slope at 1.5″, I would need to scoop the armscye  as it is now cutting into my underarm.  Shoulder slope increase FAILURE. Just as on other patterns.

But let’s take a look at the left side now. The sleeve is a little close. I’d actually try to wear it as is in a wearable-muslin.  Un/fortunately, I trashed this muslin with the RBA.  It set in easily so the alterations I made were either spot-on or really good. While I suppose I could complain, I think it’s hanging nicely both front and back and is my preferred length

Back Left
Front Left

I think this is about as good as you can expect a sleeve to look when there aren’t any differences between front and back sleeve cap; no arm curve or other measure to accommodate the elbow and it’s a one piece sleeve. It’s only barely more than a decorated pillowcase for the arm. BUT it isn’t any worse looking/fitting than RTW T-shirt sleeves  (on me). In fact, it fit better than some of the sleeves I’ve stitched up in the last few years. So it’s not perfect, but I’m good. I’m really good with this sleeve other than adding 1/4″ more ease.

However the side view tells me,  I’m going to have to scoop out that armscye:

Yes the left side that was so beautiful sleeveless:


is now begging for a change

I am a little surprised. Sleeveless, the underarm sits about 1.5″ below my underarm. Is it possible I made the sleeve cap too low or reduced to much circumference?  I’ll do some measuring,,,,

 

and let you know.

 

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2 thoughts on “SP195: Continuing Muslin #1 Fitting

  1. I have been eavesdropping on and off for a long time. I too an starting some fitting work with 195, and bought a few more for after that. I am making myself take pictures (to be honest, making my 17 year old snap shots on my phone) so that I have to deal with my issues rather than just look in the mirror and shrug. Somewhat horrifying…but I am confident that what I create won’t be worse than some of the RTW that lives in my closet. Peggy does say that you can send a picture and she will reply with suggestions…let’s see what she has to say. As usual, I deeply appreciate your honest insight on your process, expectations, and frustrations so I wish you well with your refreshed hospitality. None of this is easy-fitting, pictures, learning in public, and responding to everyone’s opinions.

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  2. Thanks for the suggestions, but, and I am sorry to say, my emails must land in her spam folder as I dont get replies. I am able to order things. Go figure. Maybe she will answer you.

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