For someone who says they hate fitting, I do an awful lot of it. I want to explore my creativity, however limited that may be. BUT, I seem to be constantly wrestling with converting a flat 2-D shape into 3 dimensions.
I had hope for more comments that would say no don’t do that or do this instead. I’m afraid I confused some people when I show comparisons with my sloper. I wanted my sloper to tell me I had enough width and length. The other things I pointed out were curiosities. I’m sorry to have confused the issue because my post on selecting my size, which I thought critical, was largely ignored. That being the case, I proceeded along the lines of my previous thoughts and traced size 5W across the shoulders swinging out to the 7W at the underarm.
As instructed I increased my side seam allowances to 1″. I tried to estimate where the bust point should land. No way of guess for waist and hip. I’m a very analytical person. I want to know these things. I guessed that it was 2″ beyond the dot just above the dart and drew and X. Next I marked the 3/8″ shoulder seam allowance, drew a line from shoulder to bust and measured it at 11.5″
My shoulder to BP is 10.5. What I’m seeing above happens to validate what I was seeing when comparing my sloper:
and dove-tails what I saw today with the first fitting:
Yes I did get to a first fitting (and beyond). I cut the back and front. Stay stitched armscyes and necklines. and basted shoulders and side seams before taking my first fitting and pics. I put water-soluble thread in the bobbin and I decided to try her recommended knit stitch settings (straight stitch 3.5 mm long).
I see several issues but I’m ignoring them. I only wish to petite 1″ across the upper bodice. Which did marvelous things for the underarm position
Although I might still come back and petite the upper bodice again, I figured it was time to start working on the shoulder slope and my asymmetrical shoulders.
I’ve increased the shoulder slope to 5/8″ on the left side. The right was increased to 5/8 and then the entire slope redrawn 1/4″ lower — because, that’s usually what I need to do. While not totally ignoring those wrinkles waist and below, I’m giving greater attention to the wrinkles around the armscye. One of my concerns has been is the bust point properly located? With the last fitting, I think I can say definitely yes …
…and wish I could be so positive around the waist and hip. My analytical side wants to be able to say “see there’s the waist mark and I’m really close.”
I know I seem to have passed over checking circumference but I really didn’t. Once the upper bodice was petited, the circumferences at the waist and hip seem to be OK. I’m didn’t see vertical, up and down wrinkles that would say I have too much ease, or horizontal pulls that say give me more. What I saw are all diagonal lines; some more diagonal than others.
After the 3rd fitting, I really wished for a horizontal bust dart for cleaning up all the diagonal lines from underarm to waist. Not having that, I proceeded to take in under the arm. In some broadcasts, Peggy will tell you that vertical darts are circumference. In other broadcasts (to which I don’t have the links) she says this dart is a depth issue. Personally, I’m confused as to whether it should be made before the shoulder slope or afterwards. If it is circumference, I should have done it first. But if this is depth, darting, I did it exactly when I should have. Well, that’s moot really. What is important is how the dart improves the fit.
I had to pinch and stitch that dart twice. Once at 3/4″ deep and 2nd time at 1.25″ deep. There are still issues. I can’t remove the gaping at my arm. Pinching at the shoulder (increasing the shoulder slope) could only do so much. I don’t think the underarm dart helped at all (with the armhole gaping). I think I may need to pinch out an actual front armscye dart for a sleeveless top. I dont think the gaping would be apparent if a sleeve were inserted. If I make an armscye dart, I don’t see how to put the armscye dart into the french dart. It may be possible to increase the front shoulder slope more (the back is not gaping) except I dislike making the front shoulder slope different from the back. Another possibility is during finishing with either facing, FOE or a ribbing, cut them a little short and ease the armscye in that area only.
BTW the side seam dart is curved to fit me.
As you saw from previous pics, I don’t need the ease at the underarm but a short distance below (about 4″) I do need all that fabric to cover the girls.
I’m quite sure there are several of you screaming “Sway Back. Sway Back. Sway Back.”. I hear your chanting all the way in South Dakota, but I opted to make the Round Back Alteration first. Why:
Because I’ve seen many of my fitting drag lines disappear with a simple RBA.
Still chanting “Sway Back”?
I opted for a little more ease across my tummy and prominent seat. Only 1/8″ which is 1/4″ at each side, total 1/2″ ease. I like my clothes with just a little more ease; and I like my clothes to skim not hug my curves.
I’m at the point now of saying I really need to go back and work on the right shoulder. It’s especially evident when looking at the two sides that I still need to make a correction.
The right side is filled with diagonal lines. The left? None that I notice.
There’s still the sleeve. It will need to adjusted across the cap (I shortened the armscye. I have to shorten the cap.) I think the sleeve has enough ease, but you never know until try on. And while I’m at it, I’m going to want to consider differences I will want for the cardigan. I just don’t see making it exactly the same especially if I want to wear it as a 3rd layer.
to be continued …