Considering all the effort I made on the embroidery (shared yesterday), you’d think I would have put some thought into the garment for which it was intended.
I wanted to showcase the embroidered neckline recently finished and blogged. I also am curious about 2 alterations (round back alteration rotated to neckline darts; FBA)that Fit For Art recommends on their Jacket and T patterns. Essentially I am testing these changes but I expect them to be successful. In case they weren’t I chose a recently acquired fabric that I’m not in love with. It’s OK. The yellow, asymmetrical, vertical stripe looked better on the site than in my hands. The label says ‘rayon knit’ but in my hands it feels like an ITY.
I decide not to push the envelope and leave the back alone. My new top will have the same center back seam as every TRT I’ve sewn. The recommended FBA is only half an FBA because it adds length by splitting horizontally through the bust dart to the center front and then spreading the two halves 1″ apart. Usually I add 2″ in center front length but the C-D front pattern piece is already longer in front. Still I needed the full 2″ to make the front hems level with the back. Sigh, I waffled and decided to split the difference. My separation is 1.5″. Then of course the side seam has to match, so the bust dart is redrawn much larger. Much, much larger.
I dislike the now 3″ wide dart but I like the even hemline. Especially when compared to the hemline when I added 2″ at center front:
The sharp curve of the my previous addition was hard to sew and join smoothly to the side panel. I was trimming it with the serger just before hemming! It’s kind of a trade-off i.e. big frickin’ dart or wacky curve; both have a downside. If this split + big dart fixes the rising front hem line as well as my previous alteration, I would prefer using the big dart because it eliminates any difficulty at the hem. I prefer alterations that fix without creating a new issue.
My yellow stripe version will include an alteration I made after the last TRT. Before I put the pattern away, I slashed the sleeve cap and overlapped it to remove excess ease. That excess ease had resulted from my shoulder slope change at the beginning of this adventure and should have been done at the same time.
I’m happy to report that the sleeve cap alteration seems to have worked. This rayon knit is pretty stretchy so I might still be off. The side seams stitched easily and smoothly up the sides and over the shoulder. Not sure I can ask for better.
The FBA, didn’t work quite as I wanted. My hem is still uneven:
Yes I’m still wearing the same bras and still rotating my pics so my I appear to be vertical to the ground.
I’ve developed some new drag lines on the front
and an odd bust dart forming
I’m sure I would have noticed these and the tighter sleeve even on the dark colored fabric versions.
I’ve purposefully mentioned that this is a ‘rayon fabric’ several times so far. Other than wool, I prewash all fabrics. Once prewashed, fabrics are steam pressed before cutting and seams are steam pressed flat and then open during stitching. Just before ‘modeling’, I lightly spray-starch and steam press again. Oddly this fabric shrunk a second time when I rinsed out the water-soluble stabilizer from the embroidery. Could it have also shrunk when I steam pressed before modeling? Creates a delimma for me. Are the hem and bust issue from the FBA or from the fabric? (Just how many wadders can I blame on fabric?)
I’m absolutely distressed at the fit over the hip:
The green dashed line indicates what I like. Red dots how this is fitting. I can let out the CB seam 1/4″ and the side seams another 1/4″ each. I can add a total 1.5″ ease and probably make this work.
But will it shrink in the first wash? I hate to do all this work and find I can only wear this top once!
You may have noticed that the garment is unhemmed. I did not intend to create a raw edge hem. Truth is I think I ruined this when I finished the neckline.
The embroidery changed the width of the front neckline but I did not compensate for that on the back neckline. I stretched the shoulder’s to fit. Which didn’t quite. I finished the front by butting up to the neckline edge and stitching a lace elastic;
Trimmed the excess fabric within the neckline; turned to the private side and stitched the elastic in place.
I thought FOE would rescue my back neckline. Alas, my application is awkward at the shoulder.
Sure it will be OK to wear around the house and I can probably cover the error up completely by donning a vest or jacket. But I wanted it to be perfect. I’m experienced enough that these kind of things shouldn’t happen or at least shouldn’t be so bad.
Right now, it’s in Time Out. There’s an hours worth of work if I want to wear it. I’m still weighing the work required against a one time wearing.