My Tabula Rasa Jacket pattern arrived on Friday. Wasn’t expecting it before Monday and not planning to use it for at least a week. I couldn’t help myself. I had to find out what the differences are between the Jacket and the Tee.
I purchased the full set, which includes both size ranges and cost $30 plus shipping. While the jacket is interesting I’m more likely to use it as a blouse. For a jacket I’m probably a size Large. As a blouse? I’m thinking I may go down a size. Can’t tell yet.
I tried taking pictures and am posting them. It’s not easy to tell the Jacket tissue from the T tissue.I’m comparing large size to large size because that’s my T size.Overall the jacket pieces are wider and longer than the T tissues. Which should be so because the jacket is an over garment, a third layer. The jacket has to be bigger than the garments beneath.
The necklines are very different. The jacket is intended to be worn open and has a separate neckband to finish a V shaped neckline. The blouse had a scooped neckline with template for V. Personally, I think this is something I could easily do myself. Starting with the T front, add 1/2″ ease, then using a curve create a lower front neckline; cut long, narrow rectangle to be folded off and serged to neckline. Even if I didn’t make exactly the same neckline, I’d have something acceptable for a jacket.
Ignoring the A-B front, I compared CD front with CD front also because that’s the front I chose to use for the Tee.
Left is the jacket pattern alone, right the T front placed on top the Jacket front.
If you are a 3X, you definitely want to purchase the jacket pattern. On the T, 2X and 3X are the same. On the jacket they are clearly 2 different sizes. The Large-3X jacket has 2 bust darts. I didn’t unfold the XS-Med and don’t know how many bust darts it has. The T has only one bust dart (for sizes Large through 3x). Circumference wise, the jacket sizes and T sizes are very close. But the jacket is longer both at the shoulder and at the hem. The jacket pattern contains the HBLS whereas the T has only grain lines. I think you were expected to buy the jacket first. Do all your fitting with the help of th e HBLS and then purchase the T. I did it backwards.
Jacket on left, T on top of Jacket on right.
Other than the being longer, there is not much different between jacket backs. Of course, the hems are different. The T has multiple hem options to add a little interest. The jacket is straight across. It’s a supporting player i.e. your audience shouldn’t notice the hem but the wonderful things you do on the jacket panels.
The Sleeve however tells the a different story. Had a heck of a time photoing the sleeves and did not get a decent photo of the jacket sleeve alone. Above the T sleeve is placed on top of the jacket sleeve. The jacket sleeve is both much taller and much wider than the T. I think even if I could have altered the T into a blouse, the sleeve would have killed my process. It’s really that much different.
I concluded that I really needed the jacket pattern as well as the T pattern.
The circumferences are such enough I would use a large if I wanted a jacket. But I want blouses. Blouses of woven, non-stretch or hardly-any-stretch fabric. Fortunately, FFA includes a finished measurements charts. Looking at that chart, I will start with a Medium add my sloping and narrow shoulder adjustments and 1/2″ round back alteration. I’ll need to do something tocreate a button band. Have not decided if I’m going to use the CD front. I’m really not a C cup. I’m Barely-B. I chose to work with the CD front on the T because the CD was longer than the AB. I’m always adding at center front. I thought starting with the CD would take care of that. To my surprise, I still needed to add 2″ CF length.