The adult logical side of me says I should continue working with the knit sloper until I solve the issue with the wedges. Logic says I should make a list of possible options and test until finished. However, the child side of me says “We’ve worked so hard for so long. Lets plaaaaaaaaaaaaaay”.
The child won.
I bought this pattern several months ago
and entered it into my pattern inventory. I did not put it away. I wanted to test it as soon as I had a good knit sloper. I’m thinking this might be even easier to fit. For one thing, it has a front, back, and two side panels. That’s lots of seams that can be adjusted for fit. Add to that, I don’t see indications of close-fitting, yet I wouldn’t call this Lagenlook. It does have an odd-looking sleeve. Not sure if that is a help or a challenge.
I selected size by comparing my knit sloper even though the sloper isn’t perfected. The fit across the shoulders seems perfect in a size large.
Upper bust, good. Waist good. But down around the hips there just ain’t enough fabric not even using the entirety of all 8 seam allowances. I even switched the straight for the flared but didn’t gain any significant ease. My decision was to trace large from shoulders to waist and Xlarge waist to hem.
The Tabula Rasa offers 2 front options. One for an A-B cup the other for C and above. Out of sheer curiosity I compared the two fronts. The AB has a side boob bump. The C has a small dart and a slightly longer center front. Now, I’m not a C cup. I barely fill a B cup. Relying on measurements a fitter will bring out a C cup and watch in horror as it collapses. I’m back to my personal fitting challenges. I am a little pear. I am a little rounded pear. My measurements suggest a C cup because the standards expect for all of the difference between under bust and full bust to be frontal flesh (i.e. breast tissue). Not in my case. My padding distributes fairly evenly all around front, sides and back. So I normally rejected firmly any suggestion to use a C cup anything but in this case I gave it a second thought. One of the issues I continually correct is not enough length at the center front. Another, that’s more of a personal preference is that I’ve known for years that a blouse, T-shirt, tank top whatever just looks better on my body if there is even a shallow bust dart. In retrospect, I think the bust dart is suggesting to the eye that there is more shape than there really is. So I decide one test garment coming up with the C-cup front. Worst that can happen is I rip the seams and recut the front for the A-B cup.
The instructions say that whatever adjustments you needed from the FFA (Fit For Art) jacket, make them on the T. You’ll need them. Well I haven’t made the FFA jacket, but I’m pretty sure I’ll need similar adjustments as made for my woven and then knit slopers. I traced size as just determined. Immediately traced the shoulder slope from my knit sloper. It’s kind of a ‘known error’. I mean I know I still have something not right in the shoulder, armscye, upper back area but at least I know what is wrong and I’m starting from there. Then I added a 3/4″ RBA (round back alteration). I know that the curvature of my back has increased over the years. To me it’s always been a matter of time before I needed to include that adjustment. Time is now, I’m just not completely sure of the amount. The 3/4″ RBA seemed to make no improvement over the 1/2″ RBA for the woven sloper. The first knit looked fine with the 3/4″ RBA in Fit 01, but when finalized the distinctive drag lines which indicate use of an RBA, reappeared. So using a 3/4″ RBA with the thought I may need to adjust that in the future. I added 2 important seams a 1/2″ center front and 1/2″ center back. In future garments, I can use these seams for design and style options. Right now, I definitely need the CB for adjusting the back. The CF seam is a fudge factor i.e. gives me another place for adjustment if needed. I trimmed the shoulder seams to 1/4″; all the rest to 1/2″. Sleeve was tried 1/8″ all around giving me a 1/2″ SA all around. I did not otherwise adapt the sleeve which maybe a mistake. Changing the shoulder slope definitely lopped off over an inch armscye total length. For now I”m hoping I can ease the sleeve whatever difference I have created.
I searched my stash for a 30% stretch knit. With a busy print. I think busy prints really camouflage sewing mistakes and “created fitting opportunities”. My fabric is 100% polyester with a goodly portion of lycra. It does stretch more than 30% but then I don’t like the looks of it. The only thing I don’t like? It’s a black and white (mostly black) print. I can find it really hard to see the drag lines in the photos. People reading my blog, may not see them at all.
Well it is what it is and this child get’s to play today.