YED the second try

I think basically the YED fits.I just need a few minor tweaks. I’ve added 1/2″ ease to the back between hip and hem; and made a 3/8″ (3/4″ total removed) tuck across the upper bodices.  I chose a silk Jacquard fabric for my 2016 YED #2.  The silk Jacquard is softer, smoother and drapes just a little differently than the cotton used in the last version. This fabric alone could actually improve the look and drape but I’m counting on my tissue alterations to help as well.  I press my fabric layout my pattern and cut the pattern pieces, a front facing and a bias band for the back neckline finish.  I mark the notches and the center line on both fronts.

I begin construction by taping neckline and armscyes. I serged the center back seam but baste the shoulders and armscyes.  I’m hoping my tweaks work but want to be able to make further adjustments should they be needed.

Needed they are. The first try-on is worse than any of the previous versions. Being softer only means every hint of a drape or drag line is made maddeningly obvious.  Additionally the ‘sleeves’ are cutting into the front of my arm. They are painful.

Trying to remove those drapes I pinch shoulder seams

Twiddle with side seams

Increase the curve of the back

and then reverse all the above.  I simply did not see any improvement.  The 3/8″ tuck was definitely needed. For the first time, the front neckline sits comfortably at a modest level.  But I simply don’t know what to do to fix this YED.   I just knew I’d found the answer to fitting CLD’s patterns to my body. If the PAS fits, why won’t the YED? …and will the RAL (which I had planned to work with next)?  I love these simple blouses for summer. They are a step up from the cotton T-shirt that we all seem to live in.  I’m not happy.  I feel like taking every commercial pattern in my sewing room and throwing them all in the trash. I’m so tired of fighting with patterns.

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7 thoughts on “YED the second try

  1. I know in previous post you mention that you watch the craftsy classes. Have you watched the fitting one by Joi Mahon, she has 2 on there. The one I am talking about is the fast track fitting its in the details. She does a correction where she adds a section between the shoulder and apex, maybe that is some of the issues you are having. That’s just my guess.

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  2. Hey, have you looked through the Flicker photos on the CLD grouping? If you get a chance, take a look and see how the various patterns fit the models and the sewers who have posted there. CLD patterns are designed to fit a bit oversized and with few/no darting–which will cause wrinkles where we might not used to seeing them. Also hems may not be even at the bottom–pulling up in front sometimes is just what the pattern is supposed to do. I say this to say–maybe you are being too hard on yourself with fitting some of the CLD patterns. Just a thought.

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    1. I haven’t focused on fit when looking at those pics. I’d hate to think no fit improvement is likely. I will look though. Its would be reassuring to know it’s not me, it’s the pattern.

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  3. To me, the fit of this blouse looks quite nice on you. Obviously, you see things I dont. But they again, you are a much more advanced seamstress than me.

    Karendee

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  4. First of all, this pattern was discontinued even before I started sewing Cutting Line Designs patterns, so you won’t find it on the Flickr Group. Her early patterns were cut with more design ease than her current releases. Here’s a link to this pattern on Etsy and you will see the illustration and the description of the simple top, designed to have a drawstring/casing at the waistline, as “kimono sleeve” and even the illustration shows it as a wide opening. https://img1.etsystatic.com/112/0/7698847/il_570xN.871776503_f55f.jpg

    So, based on your measurements (compared to her sizing) what size did you trace, and what did you change to get the sleeve to be so tight? I always use her 5/8″ seam allowances, sew and follow the instructions with no short cuts, and sew my first garment from a pattern with the design ease intended for my measurements before I change anything. If and when I do, that typically involves just adding darts to pants and tops if they are necessary for the fabric used, and how I want the garment to look. If you use the size with the proper ease, you won’t get all the pulling and the fabric will fall over your body the way it’s supposed to. I believe your frustration is from overfitting these patterns.

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