Excited by my results with the PAS, I charged right into tweaking the YED.    The YED fits me nicely except for the same V/U’s on the side seams.  I added 3/8″ to the side seams and another 3/8″ to the already shapely center back seam. I selected a light weight cotton fabric for my next YED and thoroughly confident proceeded to serge shoulders, side seams  and adding neckline facings.  I serge finished the side seams and the basted them together.  I mean, I am wearing versions of the YED made last year and I’m happy with them.  This is only a tweak to eliminate the U/V’s along the side seam. It should be good, right?

Well, no.  I discovered that I must not have transferred all the fitting changes to last year’s pattern.  I spent 2 hours and 4 fittings tweaking and tweaking. At which point I realized the needed changes, needed to be made in the tissue. So I finished with 3/8″  to the back side seam, a 1″ dart on each front (1″ at the hem narrowing to Zero at the waist);  and side seams stitched together 1″ higher than the DOT.


This fabric and the garment are so much lovelier in person.  I top stitched the armscyes and neckline.  I’m not sure about my button choice.  While they fit ‘artistically’ i.e. they follow the intricate curvilinear theme, they  just seem  disappear.

Maybe I should have chosen  plain or even solid blue or white buttons.  I do think white thread for the buttonholes was a good choice.

While fit is still not perfect (the V/U’s seem to have moved to center back),

it is improved and remains much better than RTW.   I made final tissue changes as follows

  1. +1/2″  to the back side seam at hip
  2.  1/4″ tuck across the upper bodice of both back and front pieces

This echos the changes needed to other patterns.  I’m not ruling out that I may need to change the shoulder slope. It’s an idea to be explored in the next version.


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