Excited by my results with the PAS, I charged right into tweaking the YED. The YED fits me nicely except for the same V/U’s on the side seams. I added 3/8″ to the side seams and another 3/8″ to the already shapely center back seam. I selected a light weight cotton fabric for my next YED and thoroughly confident proceeded to serge shoulders, side seams and adding neckline facings. I serge finished the side seams and the basted them together. I mean, I am wearing versions of the YED made last year and I’m happy with them. This is only a tweak to eliminate the U/V’s along the side seam. It should be good, right?
Well, no. I discovered that I must not have transferred all the fitting changes to last year’s pattern. I spent 2 hours and 4 fittings tweaking and tweaking. At which point I realized the needed changes, needed to be made in the tissue. So I finished with 3/8″ to the back side seam, a 1″ dart on each front (1″ at the hem narrowing to Zero at the waist); and side seams stitched together 1″ higher than the DOT.
This fabric and the garment are so much lovelier in person. I top stitched the armscyes and neckline. I’m not sure about my button choice. While they fit ‘artistically’ i.e. they follow the intricate curvilinear theme, they just seem disappear.
Maybe I should have chosen plain or even solid blue or white buttons. I do think white thread for the buttonholes was a good choice.
While fit is still not perfect (the V/U’s seem to have moved to center back),
it is improved and remains much better than RTW. I made final tissue changes as follows
- +1/2″ to the back side seam at hip
- 1/4″ tuck across the upper bodice of both back and front pieces
This echos the changes needed to other patterns. I’m not ruling out that I may need to change the shoulder slope. It’s an idea to be explored in the next version.