I do think that a Camp Shirt should be easy wearing which to me means slightly over sized. I’m not entirely sure about this one, mostly due to its length. Current fashion is longer, tunic length and odd if not asymmetrical hems. My hem is level and falls somewhere between high hip and tunic length. I *might* be able to get used to this but right now it seems a little off.
I do love this rayon challis from Craftsy. It is like a fine silk which rayon was developed to imitate. Also was tickled when I discovered the perfect buttons in my stash:
The print is circles with circles within a zig zag color scheme. My buttons are gold circles within white circles and the white matches the white of the fabric print.
I had fitting issues because I had forgotten all the things I’d done in the previous 4 versions of the same pattern. My tissue is rather cryptically marked with two shoulder lines. I fit the bare shoulder then added length for a 3/8″ shoulder pad. I like shoulder pads. Not football protection, you understand, but a little filling-in of my maturing figure where needed. I think a properly chosen and worn shoulder pad is no worse than Spanx in anyone else’s closet. Shoulder pads help me achieve the appearance I want to project a-n-d want to see in my mirror.
I’m particularly pleased with the left side above, which does not display objectionable drag lines. Yeah sure, there are some lines due to my posture as well as the ease and drape of this wonderful fabric.
I had fit this a little closer by using 3/4″ side seam allowances when I thought I had trimmed the pattern’s SA to 1/2″. To my surprise, I experienced tightness in the sleeve and between the shoulder blades along with some restricted arm movement. I ripped and then stitched between wrist and vent a 1/2″ SA. ATM, I’m not sure how I’m going to adjust the pattern. Adding that 1/4″ at the underarms and sleeves certainly made them more comfortable and mobile. However, I preferred the look of the slightly closer fit.
Construction was a breeze, outside of the initial confusion with the shoulder seam allowances. A camp shirt is designed for ease; both ease of wear and ease of construction. The slightly dropped shoulder and flattened sleeve cap remove all the difficulty of a set in sleeve especially since I sew these in flat like a T-shirt. I cut and then fused bias tape to the neckline. I wish I had also taped the armscyes and hems. My difficulty with the shoulder meant these areas were handled several times and, as can be expected, both stretched and raveled. Many of the seams (collar, facing, sleeve/armscye) are serged at 1/4″. The others were basted with water-soluble thread until fitting was satisfactory. Then were straight stitched and serge finished. I under stitched collar and front facing but top stitched the hem. At the last second I added 1/4″ shoulder pads and tacked them into place; used the blind stitch to secure the bottom 5″ of the front facing. I’m using Loes Hinse cuff procedure (from the Tunic Blouse 5203). Had intended to do a little differently with the cuff but by that time I decided the garment needed no further handling.
I anticipate using this pattern in the near future. There is a point at which you should leave the pattern alone and tweak for fit. But I think a little more can be done to assure me of an easy sew/easy fit pattern. I want to reach that point. More importantly, I want to be so confident of the fit, that I feel free to copy design details from RTW and other patterns. As I noted with the Golden Apricot Blouse, I prefer to buy pattern.s Usually, most of the decisions have already been made and tested. There are a surprising number of options, small changes, that make a difference in how the finished garment looks, feels even coordinates with other garments in the wardrobe. But given my figure and many needed alterations, sigh, I’ve admitted to myself that working with an untried pattern is difficult and frustrating. More frustrating then starting with a similar, basic style and incorporating the desired styling. I anticipate buying fewer patterns and the ones I do buy will be because I need templates; I need to know the conclusion someone else reached after testing numerous details.
But for now, I can happily say, had I see this blouse in a store, I would have bought it. It has the perfect colors for me; a classic shape I love and this particular blouse, since I sewed it, fits pretty well. So, that finishes Garment #2 of my Summer 6PAC