LH5203 Fit?

 

Then came the fun of finding a suitable fabric.  I wanted to use a rayon knit because that’s first in the list of fabrics given by Loes Hinse.  It’s my understand that the first fabric listed is the fabric the designer used and tested. They may have tested the next few on the list and after that they are assuming the remainder will work or at least work well enough. To really see how the pattern is supposed to fit, the first fabric on the list is the best choice. It was while hunting through fabrics I realized that I’m able to resist most of the sales. I’m sucked in for  Rayon Challis,  ITY and slinky.  I know I purchase rayon jersey but I must use it as soon as it arrives because I hunted and hunted before finally finding a floral purple. I laid out and cut my pattern pieces.   Taped  neckline shoulders  of the back and the front neckline before serging the center back seam I added and the shoulders.  Despite my change I followed the same procedure as for the Fucia Flowers at the shoulders.  I stitched the Left shoulder with a 1/2″ seam allowance. The right got a 3/8″ SA.  (Loes uses a standard 3/8″ SA).  Switched to water-soluble thread and adding the sleeves before closing the long side and underarm seam. I spent about 8 hours creating the tissue. But when that’s ready, cutting and stitching a Loes Hinse pattern is quick.  I was ready for my first fitting about 45 minutes after making the 7-Step Custom Shoulder.

What a fitting it was!

In full color, I was tempted to finish and move on. Except the sleeve felt tight. I remeasured my bicep and came up with an inch difference. Not really sure why  other than I have wings instead of biceps.  It’s an age joke.  You’ll get it eventually.

To check the fit, I lightened the pictures 70%

Really pleased. I’ve got a little velcro butt going on and might have to agree with somebody who keeps telling me I need an FBA. Especially when looking at the side views:

The pattern has a boob bump on the side seam. Which I lost when I moved the armscye.  When I make templates, I may need to copy shoulder, armscye and bump.

My fabric has 40% stretch but I didn’t like it stretch 40%. I liked the 20% stretch. I think had this been slinky, or rib knit, it would have been fine.

One error I’m pleased to see, is that the front hem is lower than the back.  I added 2.5″ to the CF length because usually I need it.  I added it to LH5202. Here it doesn’t look necessary.

I contemplated adding a gusset but decided to baste the seams at 1/4″.  The 1/4″ is clearly marked on my machine. As is the 1/2″ and many metric small measures.  The 3/8 is not. My Ruby’s foot was exactly 3/8″ and so Loes 3/8″ SA was never an issue. But on my Dream the foot is not exactly 3/8″. It is almost 1/2″. I felt it possible that my seam wandered closer to 1/2″ and could have made the seams too wide. Since the 1/4″ is clearly marked and easy to follow, I pulled out the old basting, lined up the raw edges carefully and stitched the side seams again. Wasn’t sure this would work. At best I would be adding 1/2″ to the bust circumference and 1/4″ to bicep. It was worth trying.

… and the result close enough that I didn’t mess with a gusset before finishing:

On the tissue, I added 1/2″ to the side seams and the sleeve.  With a note to use 5/8″ SA with slinky. Also brought the hem up 1/2″ at CF. It’s now only 2″ longer than the side seam and looks very level.

I wanted you to see the final fit up close and lightened:

I’m going to agree, I need a little more bust room. I’ve decided I need to create another page in my Excel Workbook.  This is going to be about the ease that I prefer.  This top feels comfortable. If I were looking in the mirror, I wouldn’t have changed the 3/8″ SA.  But the pictures show I don’t have enough ease. That is, enough ease for rayon knit. This might indeed be enough for slinky or even interlock. I think I would want even more for ITY. The way to be sure, is note each fabric and the ease which made the best fitting and feeling garment.

I finished the neckline and hem using multiple rows of stitching spaced unevenly:

That’s was fun (oh what a boring person I must be). Although I do have reservations about the lightening stitch.  I’m afraid most people will think that my machine doesn’t sew a nice straight stitch. The Dream absolutely does.  Equal to or better than my Bernina 1630 or Viking Ruby.  I chose the lightening stitch for knit fabrics. It has just enough give so the stitches don’t pop.  My Ruby was able to adjust the straight stitch for knits when the ‘knit’ fabric selection was made. My 1630 was adjusted by moving the width selector just one nubbin–which I think was .1mm.  So far the least I can adjust the lightening stitch is .5mm width.  Interesting Nancy Zieman who sews on the Babylock equivalent says not to use the lightening stitch. But I tested. a straight stitch will pop. The lightening stitch does not.  I may get smarter and figure out how to set the width less than .5 or I may program my own knit top-stitch.  Love having that feature.

 

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