The longer I stared at the pics of Fit 01. the more I thought that the only real issue was that the shoulders looked too wide. As if I hadn’t made the NSA at all!
First thing I did was check the pattern. Yes I had made the NSA and it was a full 1″. Then I noticed that I hadn’t quite trimmed the tissue around the armscyes. There was at least an extra 1/8″ on the back and again on the front. Umm combined with the fact that Loes uses 3/8″ SA’s and for basting I had used scant 1/4″ that’s an extra 1/2″. Oh and I can’t forget that the back started out 1/4″ too wide. I thought of another oops. I did not stay stitched nor tape any of my curves. I’ve seen fabrics stretch huge amounts, HUGE, when not stabilized. And another … Jeesh …. will this never end? I added a 1″ SA to the center back so as to have a seam back there to play with; and stitched at 1″ but my edges did not remain aligned. They were off 1/2″ along about the shoulder blades. Less above and below. I decided as long as I was fixing all the above, I may as well fix the sleeves. I had calculated they would be 1″ too long once the cuff was added. So I trimmed the sleeve length 1″. Earlier, I missed the side vent. I usually don’t make the tunic length for this blouse and so don’t make the side vents. I marked them now.
Then started to sew. I serged the center back along the 1″ CB seam. Since the left now looked lower than the right, I knew I probably needed to work on the shoulders a bit and I wasn’t sure what to do. So I serged the shoulders at the 3/8″ seam allowance Loes had drafted and promised to think about it before the next version. I measured 1/2″ bias tape along the pattern’s back neckline marking CB and shoulder seams. I ease the neck to the bias. Then I got into the zone. Big mistake. I finished the blouse. This was intended to be a muslin. I intended to chop at will. I knew before I even took Fit 02 pics that I had an error. I had not checked for a level front hem. I knew that would most likely be off. I did not expect a new batch of issues.
Where the back had been near perfect, it now was bunching. the front and sides were absolutely begging for darts and I had an unintended high/low hem. Worst of all, which you can see, the cuff was tight pulling the whole sleeve downward. Either this fabric shrunk when lightly pressed or I measured the sleeve incorrectly.
I didn’t think I could fix the issues which had suddenly appeared. I was annoyed. I had pinned the blouse fronts together in 3 different places. I had marked the center front so I would be sure to pin on the center front. I had put my buttonholes and buttons on the same line. Why was this shirt biting me? Then I thought, even to donate this shirt, I need to fix those cuffs. I whacked ’em. OK I cut them off just above the stitching line. Suddenly front and back look good. At least OK.
My right side looks a little better than left, that shoulder thing again, but I would wear this.
It was hard to believe that the sleeve would cause all the problems.