As you may have guessed, my 2nd garment for the Late Summer Collection is a top:
I used the 2nd very light blue fabric mentioned yesterday. It too is a rayon cotton blend with lovely drape. I wanted to tweak the vest-made-top pattern in Louise Cuttings Your EveryDay Drifter pattern. This is a favorite of mine. I think I wear it to death every summer. I traced the Med, applied my NSA and BWL adjustments then added 1″ to the back divided between side seam and center back seam. I made the center back waist curve 1/4″ deeper than drafted before cutting and basting together. Basting told me that curve needed to be deeper still. I made the change to the tissue but for this garment I added 2 tiny waist darts.
A lot of times people will look at the back views and say I need a Sway Back alteration. I think I have a circumference issue instead of length issue. If I make a Sway Back alteration, the hem really curves up. Whereas when I make circumference changes, the back is smooth and the hem is level.
I also trimmed the width of the shoulders. That’s in addition to the NSA (narrow shoulder adjustment) done at the tissue. I just don’t care for shoulders that drop to the top of my bicep. They rub annoyingly. I followed Peggy Sagger’s instructions. I laid my curve on the pattern; noted numbers and then pivoted the curve at the shoulder towards the neck 2″. I took the same amount off on the tissue. I’m not sure this is the final fitting of the YED. As with the PNS, I notice the upper bodice being too wide and it feels too long. That didn’t happen when I used the small. I’m really thinking of going back to the small and figureing out how to add ease to the hip and rear without changing the overall shape.
To coordinate with the pants, I used the center flower head and repeated it 3 times on one side 4 on the other. I thought I would like the slight asymmetry. Now I’m not so sure. But between the flower and cover stitch top-stitching, I think it coordinates beautifully.