PAS

First 2015 finished PAS:

I should be smiling much wider.  I really like this version but see some tweaks. Isn’t that what all dressmakers do?

although I removed 1/4″ from both sides seams (total of 1/2″ ), the front still looks a little a too big IMO.  The garment should skim the body hinting at shape without revealing all my curves. The pattern has waist shaping at the side seams and a bust dart. The garment should be a little more figure revealing.  I see a single vertical from shoulder to bust on one side.  I’m not sure if that is posture, confirmation that the garment is a bit large or something else. The neckline sits nicely against my chest and back but not at the shoulders.  Again, I’m not sure, is that the new shoulder slope? Is the garment too wide across the shoulders?

I like the back too. I added 1/2″ at the side seams (total 1″ for the back).  this helps it skim the hips but seams to nullify any waist shaping.  It too looks a little wide to me.  I didn’t want to add CF and CB seams, opting instead to enjoy the free-floating effect.

I lowered the armscyes 3/4″ which I think did wonders for the side:

I still have a bit of a U but again that could be because it is still to wide across the shoulders.  The bust dart is correctly positioned. I was afraid that moving the apex would not work. I was afraid that the fabric would ripple or do other funny things.  Definitely relieved that my change worked well .

I’m contemplating changes to the pattern and wondering if I should start fresh.  I will need to narrow the front and back through the shoulder and upper back; reposition bust dart and armscye; add ease to the back hip and remove ease from the front.  It would help if this fabric draped more but this is the kind of fabric I like to use.  I’d really like to have a version of this pattern which works well with this type fabric.I find it often. It’s like canvas. A plain weave with thin yarns rather than fine threads. It is soft and drapes and is comfortable to wear.  It does not cling– well except for my perpetual velcro-butt. It is one of the most comfortable fabrics for summer wear.  It protects from the sun but still is cool to wear. I convinced myself. Developing a pattern for this fabric is a must.

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