PAS cont

When I’m tired my mind just doesn’t function.  Last night I didn’t know what to do. This morning it was “(slap face) I could have had a V8″

The obvious answer was to address the shoulder slope.  I pulled out CS1201 and compared the shoulders.  CS1201 shoulder ends at about 4″ towards the armscye when placed on top of the PAS.  I traced/marked the slope that far then picked up my curve.  I disagree with Peggy Saggers on several things, but she is a phenom when it comes to utilizing the curve.  I matched the drafted curve of the PAS at the neck and then pivoted the armscye end downwards to align with the traced CS1201 shoulder.

Back to the sewing machine. I hemmed front and back at 5/8”.  I prefer a 1-1/4″ hem but the curve made for a lot of bulk.  I preferred the much smoother 5/8″ hem and so I used it.  I stitched the bust dart using thread in top and bobbin. Then switched to WST in the bobbin to stitch the new shoulder curve and 3.8″ side seams (instead of a 5/8″).

I want to focus on the side view.  I’m so pleased that there are no U’s (or swags or drapes or whatever they are called), drag lines which drape from under bust, across the side seam and up to the back shoulder. I felt underarm tightness and believe the upper bodice drag lines are confirming.  I’m also pleased that the front and back hem appear fairly level. The front may be slightly long. Which makes me think I didn’t have the shoulder seams correctly positioned on my body which could contribute to some of those upper bodice drag lines and the feeling of tightness.  The thing with garment construction is that the same drag line could indicate a few different issues.  It’s up to us, the dressmakers, to understand how the body is effecting the fabric.

The rest of the back drag lines, I’m calling “velcro butt”.  I suffer with this even with the slickest of fabrics.  I’m investigating using fine chains and flat washers.  Both are commonly used is jackets and coats.  Never seen them on dresses or blouses but I’m willing to make history if it helps with my velcro issue.

Oddly my front suddenly looks too big.  I’ve added a mere 1/4″ ease to the front.  I just don’t think it should have made that great a difference from the previous fit.

Happily this gives me direction.  I need to scoop out the underarm.  As I understand it now (initially I didn’t get this fact), the armscye is shortened by the increased slope and must be returned to it’s former depth and shape. I’ll also offset the side seams so that the back retains the ease of the 3/8″ SA but the front benefits from the 5/8″ SA.

…until tomorrow

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