Fitting didn’t go well.
After basting together I looked in the mirror for obvious issues. I took a picture of the back at this stage. Remember the hip wings/bumps that I mentioned seeing on the side seams of the pattern? They were the first things I removed, followed by increasing the shoulder slope. I was unsure how to handle the shoulder slope because of the extended sleeve. I aligned 1201 and traced the slope from it as far as possible. Then extended the line to 5620’s armscye.
I had stitched the full 1/2″ back tucks but made the front tucks a scant 1/8″. I could immediately see that the deep tucks did not work well with the chosen fabric. It has just a bit too much body for the pattern. IMO, this shape requires a soft drape. I added additional 1/8″ tucks with every alteration because they did improve the appearance of the back at the waist. Unfortunately the upper back never really improved:
The final is not a “hot mess” but not something I’m proud to wear either:
It’s partly this style. I never fit Louise Cutting’s YED vest without at least some drag lines from the shoulder. I’ve always assumed it’s a combination of pattern shape and fabric because I see the same drag lines on most people.
I was always pleased with the side views, because the hem is level
I’m not going to say I need to add the exact same wedge to the front but I probably always need length and should compare with 1201. Although I want to lengthen 1201. I used a shirt tail hem and the final is shorter than I prefer.
I thought I made a major fitting discovery when I deepened the armscye on 1204. At the time, all the diagonals disappeared. It seemed logical that I increased the shoulder slope which decreased the armscye depth. So increasing the armscye depth returned the armscye to it’s drafted depth and fixed the diagonals. Now I’m seeing that’s not the total story. This armscye is just above my bra band….and that’s only if I raise my arm up to the rafters (thereby raising the shoulder and garment and armscye’s position.) Point is the armscye has enough length/depth. Does it need width? But this style creates the armscye shape. If I change the armscye shape, I’ll no longer have this style.
The front didn’t change much after correcting the armscye slope:
It’s always good. Not perfect, but good. The pictures show more diagonals than the mirror. It’s an odd thing about camera’s, they show details that your wouldn’t notice IRL.
It’s fine for wearing around the house. Even making a dash to the supermarket. But I’m not proud of it. Unless I figure out how to fix the back, I won’t be using this pattern again.