5620 Jacket

Despite the failure of 7142, I’m still enamored with  Conni Crawford’s patterns.  I’m chalking up 7142 as an early pattern and not representative of her current draft and start on the jacket in B5620. This jacket reminds me of the CLD  Vest included in Your Everyday Drifter (22547). I loved and have made that vest many times. I’m choosing 5620 over YED vest because 5620 has a horizontal bust dart and  tucks for shaping at the waist. Not to say, I won’t also make the YED vest at some time.

I don’t want a jacket, I want to wear it as a top, same as I did with the YED vest.   Since 5620 is described as a jacket, I’m expecting a little more ease has been added; the armscye will be a little deeper and I think a jacket back is a little wider. All because a jacket is expected to go over something (like a dress or blouse).  My biggest concern is that the armscye could be too low. However, I’m not immediately raising the armscye.  Conni’s patterns have shown me a I need a more ease across my rear and I need a greater slope at the shoulder. When I apply my shoulder slope, the armscye will be effectively raised.

I isolated the jacket pieces from the dress. Then tucked the bindings and facings back into the envelope. I hate the standard narrow facings the Big 4 draft.  If I’m adding a facing, it’s going to be big enough to help.  As for the bindings, I learned long ago to adapt the length of the binding according to the fabric. Besides, I know I will be adjusting the armscye. It seems foolish to cut a binding to a length I know will be changed.

Once again the L/S was marked just above the waistline so I was able to tuck a 1″ BWL into the original tissue.  I noted that the “sleeve” edge is unusual. It is sort of wavy. I don’t know if that is a style decision or fit.  CC has promised to adapt her drafting for the larger figure and for the larger woman’s styling choices. For now, I simply traced the sleeve but made a mental note that I might need to change it.  I was also surprised at the side seam. I’m expecting a side seam that is straight down or straight at a outward-angle  from the armscye.  This side seam travels downward to just above the waist and then hooks outward over waist and hip. It reminds me of some of the early alterations I made to pants attempting to add additional ease over the rear.  My sides are pretty rectangular, a flat plane.  Adding a bump on the side did not add ease over my rear. It added a bump over my side.  I used to call them “Mickey Mouse Ears” because these bumps just stuck out.  Nonetheless, I traced the pattern as drafted. Maybe CC knows something I do/did not.

After tracing, I pulled out the pieces to 1201 because that is almost perfect. (Even needing tweaks to underarm and sleeve width 1201 looks nice.)   Interesting that the underarm is about the same; with obvious excess ease where the “bump” sticks out on the side seam.  Not surprising, the pieces of 5620 look too short.  I add 1.25″ in length to the back. To the front I add 1.25″ at the side seam and 2.5″ at the center front.  I use the french curve to connect the two.

I’ve chosen a light blue I think of as spa (blue aqua not green aqua), 100% cotton with a linen like weave.  Umm dupioni also looks like this weave. It is thick and thin threads in a plain weave.  Light weight, but still opaque for summer use.  I had only a yard. I cut the front and back from my cotton. Then retrieved a cotton/poly white batiste from the stash and cut facings. I taped neck and shoulder edges then basted shoulder and side seams for the first try-on.




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