D7142 Version 2

I’m again using a lawn border-print. Whenever I run across border or panel prints that appeal to me, I buy. This one has been sitting in the stash about 10 years.  It is 100% cotton and has a much softer hand than yesterday’s fabric. However, it’s not really me. I like sSmall to medium sized florals.  I also gravitate towards muted colors like the pinks but steer away from greens. Most greens cast a sickish parlor to my face.

Thinking it was overkill, I added the 6″ ease as described yesterday. I taped all the curved edges, serged the shoulders and finished the neckline.

When I know I’m going to top stitch, I don’t understitch. Does anyone else do that?   I like big facings. I’m either going to bind the edges (as I finally finished the armscyes) or make big facings.  My facings go all the way out to the armscyes and down to the empire line where they were caught when I serged the skirts to the bodices.

The ease added to the back skirt was way too much.  I had a difficult time serging it to the back bodice. Partly that was my error. I wasn’t thinking I had that much ease and did not pull-up hard enough at the start of the serging. Also, the pattern has back darts in both the bodice and the skirt. Since I knew I would be serging the skirt to the bodice, I stitched the bodice darts but not the skirt darts.

I basted the side seams at 1cm. Tried it on. Basted side seams at 2cm. Tried on. Took off.  Basted seams at 3.5CM. Tried it on. Basted at the underarm 3CM curved out to the empire line at 1.5CM.

Once it was hanging with about the right amount of circumference, I felt really disappointed.  That slant of the shoulder emphasizes the roundness of my back. The shoulder isn’t sitting right either and it’s too late to fix it. But I see gaping front and back necklines and poufs in the back.  Despite the fact the skirt has tremendous ease, the fabric is hanging up on my right hip, which also happens to be my lower shoulder. These shoulders are far too narrow to correct the issue with a shoulder pad and they reveal my bra straps.  I don’t go braless. In the winter, it’s extra warmth. In the summer having the girls hoisted in position keeps my underbust  from sweating. In my life, bras are not just appearance enhancing.

 

Look at the front again:

The darts are in the wrong position. The points went above my apex 1.5″ (3.5cm). It was too late to move the darts, so I made them into release tucks.  Take my word for it, the back darts are also too long.

I hate the empire style line that raises in the front:

Nothing says “preggars” as much as the rising front.  The hem is even, so this was a style choice.

I do like the tea length — many people do not. It is not my most flattering length. But it is long while still being safe to walk up and down stairs which I do multiple times daily.

Net pattern changes:

+.25″ at underarm

+1.5″ at empire and hip

Shirtail hem to maximize length

Changes Needed:

Change armscye slope and neckline to cover bra and flatter

Lower the front empire line

Move bust darts

Shorten bust darts

Shorten back bodice darts

Remove 1″ ease from skirt back

The appeal of Connie Crawfords patterns for me, is the excellent fitting. In the previous patterns I’ve needed to increase the shoulder slope and add ease to the back-hip. I was hoping for a tank top style would be similarly ease to fit and then could be morphed with several style changes. As it is, I will need several more muslins just to get the bodice portion fitting.  I’m wondering if other sewists had and reported similar issues with this pattern. That could be why I didn’t find any reviews. Only a few “pans” will kill a patterns marketability. This one deserves to die. IMO. YMMV.

Not sure I will be working further with this pattern. The fit is so different from 0546 the princess seamed, empire blouse.  Taking a break to think it over.

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