I stitched the darts; basted skirts to bodices; serged shoulders; and started to baste side seams before the first fitting. The back-skirt side seam, was longer than the front-skirt side seam. What??? I repinned. Still longer. I checked my pattern. Yes I made a 1″ BWL to both front and back. Could the bias side seams have stretched that much? I walked my pattern side seams. The back is clearly 1″ longer than the front. I’ll stop short of saying the pattern has a drafting mistake (only because I did not pull out that huge original pattern again) but I rarely make a mistake that big. I mean I taped the tracing paper on top of the pattern so that it could not shift. I fixed my pattern by adding another 1″ BWL to the back skirt and trimmed 1″ of fabric from the top of the back skirt. Basted the side seams and then I tried it on.
Make that attempted to try-on. I could not get this down below the bust! So I let out the side seams. I could pull the dress down to my nipp!e level but no further. Finally I let out the back darts. Now I could pull the dress down
but talk about human sausage. I’m stuffed into it. DH loved my dress immediately and suggested I keep it for wearing around the house. Not possible since I could hardly breathe. My scraps are just that: a handful of odd-shaped nubbins. Just not possible to add more fabric to this version.
Of additional concern to me is that the garment is the length I prefer and the hem is level, but the front empire line is clearly rising:
Well this could be the combination of too tight and posture but I’m also wondering if it’s a result of the back side-seam not matching the front. .
I was really puzzled at how tight this muslin is.
I looked at the sizing on the envelope. This pattern only goes up to a size Large. I’ve been using Conni Crawford’s XL, so an error on my part for not realizing that this is one-size smaller than I use. EXCEPT the measurements given for a Large are a half-in larger than my bust and hip. It still should have had sufficient ease. I didn’t find any reviews on this pattern at PR or on the Net. I had no forewarning or even any place to check after-the-fact. I admit there’s always a possibility I made mistakes. I’m just not sure these are mine.
But it is a good style for me. I decided to add the needed ease and try again. It took 2″ of ease just to get over my bust. I opted to add 1.5″ to both front and back; total 6″ of ease. I really want to be sure I can get into the next one. The skirts I split vertically and spread apart 1.5″. I did not want to change the neckline so for the fronts, I added 1.5″ at the underarms.
I’ll probably even hopefully need to make a 3rd version. Version 1 (this one): way too small. Version 2: hopefully too large. Version 3: Goldilocks (just right).