D7142-Wrestling the pattern

I bought an early  Connie Crawford pattern D7142.

I am particularly interested in the tank top appearance of this dress. It looks wonderfully cool for summer  Having fit 3 of Conni’s patterns, I’m totally enamored.   Each pattern   has been easier to fit than the one before.  I want to use her draft.

But back to this pattern.  Judging from the cover, I thought there would be 2 versions of the bodice.  One for sleeves and one for sleeveless.  I was  disappointed after unfolding the massive master pattern to find that the same bodice is used for both the sleeved and sleeveless pattern.  I somewhat brightened upon realizing the sleeve is  a flutter sleeve which has wonderful options on it’s on.. I traced only the bodice front and back, the skirt front and back and the sleeve. I don’t plan to use the sleeve with this version.  The overlays are lovely but I shan’t be using them either (for this version).  They are wonderful for disgusing tummies and tushes and would definitely eat up that stash of sheers in a very nice way. But they are also rather distinctive.  I prefer to save that design feature for when it is on-trend again and when I have a fabric that would be highlight the structure.

I traced the largest size on the envelope (just light all the previous CC patterns I’ve fit). Sadly, there is no Shorten/Lengthen line on this pattern. I know that I need to shorten the back waist length.  My body, requires this adjustment because I’m using patterns drafted for people who are 3-4 inches taller than me. I took my BWL just below the empire line on the skirt pieces.  Pretty sure this will work because it is above the narrowest indent for the waist .  If it doesn’t work exactly right, next time I can unfold the skirt and make the BWL in the bodice portion. Since the shoulder is very narrow (2″ unfinished), I did not attempt to change the slope.  I anticipate I will need to adjust the shoulder slope and the underarm at the first fitting.   Pretty sure they will be minor adjustments best done at fitting.  The back is drafted for a zipper. I’m sure that neckline will just slip on and off so I folded along the bodice back along CB line and placed that on a fold. The skirt back, I placed the straight edge of the SA allowed for the zipper along the fold of the fabric . This added 1″ ease to the pattern (2 to the final garment) which is what I needed on all 3 previous CC patterns.

My fabric is pretty old.  I think it came into my house from my mother’s stash when she passed almost 2 decades ago. The fabric is narrow ( 38″ wide) but long (3 yards) and is printed in a lovely, realistic, rose border-print.  I placed my pattern and cut cross-grain to make the most of the border-print.   This is mostly cotton. I’m not sure it has any synthetic content. It has a firm hand to it and may have been intended for light weight home dec projects like curtains. I think it is a “lawn”. But there are no labels to guide me.    I happen to like the firm hand but light weight qualities for summer. My only concern is how quickly will it become a hot wrinkled mess when the temps soar? Without a poly content, it won’t shed or resist wrinkling.

I am eager to fit this garment.  I’m hoping to make changes once the pattern fits. I prefer a one piece tank top to the empire line of this pattern.  I also prefer the horizontal bust dart rather than the vertical darts drafted.  I have a good reason for that.  While the vertical darts are useful in the back, they are a total waste of time going over my tummy.  My waist is not concave in front. It is convex; very.  I’m hoping to make a tank top with a horizontal bust; to move the back darts to the side seam and adapt for use with knits. Right now, I’m really looking forward to a new summer dress.




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