B0456

I couldn’t resist this pattern.

I think it is so cute but I didn’t want to work with it right now.  I don’t think of it as a “basic pattern” which is what I’m really needing at the moment.  I use my fitted basic patterns to help me with fitting new patterns. A unique garment like this will be of little help for fitting new patterns. Plus, it’s not a pattern I’m likely to make many times because it is unique.  It’s the type of garment that with the second copy, instead of “lovely blouse” comments, I get “Oh. You used that pattern again”.  I’m ego-challenged enough to prefer the former.

I began by making gross cuts around the pieces need for the top. Pressed and then folded out my 1″ BWL. I can do that, because it is clearly marked on the pattern. I always do the BWL because no matter how big my hips get, my spine doesn’t grow any longer. I need patterns to be shorter between under-bust and waist.  I love the way Connie stacks her pieces on the tissue.  It was possible for me to cut a few pieces entirely and only parts of others were traced along with notches, direction arrows and the like on all.

Already, however, I’m making changes to her directions. she plans for this to be a completely lined vest. I intend to have a summer top. I set aside the right, lower-front piece.  My fronts will be pointed but at the same length so that I can check the hem’s levelness.  I  matched top center front piece with bottom front piece to create a front facing. I also slipped the center back under a piece of tissue and carefully cut the neckline and shoulders but then free-handly cut the curve for a back facings. (Note: I often don’t use back facings.  I prefer to bind the neckline.)

Neither the princess lines that terminates in the armscye nor the very sloping armscye which terminates at a very narrow, neck-hugging shoulder are my best looks. Another reason for contemplating that I won’t be making many copies of this top.  I know the princess seam  will need to be adjusted at fitting. I’m also opting to wait until fitting to adjust  the shoulder slope. I considered copying the slope with CS1201 but this is an “it depends” situation. If that shoulder is narrow enough, a slope adjustment won’t be needed or could be swept into the armscye princess seam.

However there is no doubt that I will need extra hip room.  Too bad this pattern doesn’t have a CB seam. OTOH since it has an Empire seam, the easy fix was adding 3/4″ at the CB fold and easing the resulting piece to the Upper back.

I added 1.25″ to the lower front and back. So far (all 2 garments), Conni has drafted a higher hem then I prefer. I’m not sure about adding the CF length I usually need. (I still consider the wedge added to the back of  5215 a fluke. Probably a result of my alterations.)  There’s also the possibility that the princess seam styling has already been adapted for the extra length big girls need.

So all these words, but I’m really starting with very few alterations:

  • BWL, done on the original tissue
  • +1.25″ hem length
  • Creating facings.

I feel like I’m taking a real chance with this pattern.

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