A New Ebb

I planned to smile just before the camera flash. Didn’t make it.

Despite the fact that I have a perfectly fitted tracing of CLD 81508 (Ebb) pattern, I traced it anew. Crazy?  Well I wanted a second opinion as to whether the Slash-and-Slide NSA worked better than the Slash-and-Smash NSA. So I checked size (still the same) and traced all pieces carefully noting all dots and nips and other pattern markings. I measured my armscye. Then  made the 1″ Slash-and-Slide NSA  by dropping my vertical starting midway along the shoulder and the opposing horizontal started at the notches.  Sliding caused the armscye to drastically change shape.  I aligned my french curve along the curve. Oddly, the back curve stayed the same lenght. Front curve is a different matter. The front armscye curve is about 1″ longer than as Louise drafted.  I measured the  curve and cap of the sleeve and compared both total and front measurements. The sleeve cap is still longer than the armscye. So I left as is.

My fabric is a light weight woven Rayon. I love Rayons, but my immediate reaction to this one (when I pulled it out of the box) was “Whoa. That looked better on the Internet”.  But I needed muslin fabric and set it aside.  Now was it’s turn.

Like all of CLD patterns, this one is perfectly drafted. It sews together quickly, possibly because you aren’t fighting any inconsistencies. I stitched the mitered vents and notched sleeve hems. Top stitched the back facing and the entire neckline. Top stitching made the neckline very crisp; professional.  I stitched the front pieces and shoulders together; turned up the hems and fused into place. But I basted the sleeve, the underarm and side seams.  Checked fit and then finished. I’m very pleased to share with you the final garment and my fitting observations.

I added orange lines to the pics to help point out the issues I see.

There’s no doubt that my back is rounding and requiring more ease. However the Slash-and-Slide does not remove any ease across the back.  Judging from where my orange lines start, I might actually be able to remove a little ease from shoulder to hem. The vertical lines below the shoulder are definitely the result of ease. Is it too much ease?  I kind of like the floating effect of the back.  This occurs because the rayon has a slight amount of body and so does not cling but shifts and drapes nicely. In another fabric the ease might really appear to make the garment too large.

I want to share the back of the first Ebb I made. I absolutely loved this garment and wore it for several years. But the lack of ease across the back is very evident because of all those diagonals, falling from the widest part of my back:

After the first version above, I always added a scant 1/8″ to the CB along the fold. Because of my new Slash-and-Slide method, that correction is not needed.

I’ll share the front next, because if I could only be viewed from back or front, I’d be totally satisfied with this garment.

Granted I’m being really picky about fit. I’ve reviewed some of my earlier garments and missed some of the fit issues I’m seeing now. For instance, I first noticed  the sleeve twist only about 2 months ago.  Since this blouse is not skin-tight, I believe the twist is not badly detracting. I also see the vertical drag lines around from bust and in the skirt. I know these result from insufficient upper-shoulder to apex length. Can’t be corrected now at all. The two blue arrows are pointing to vertical folds in front of the armscye which represent a new and real problem to me.  They were not present when using the Slash-and-Smash NSA.  That method removed a bit of circumference that is not needed in front in total conflict with the theory that an FBA would solve the other bust and front skirt diagonals.  Since they aren’t that horrible, I’m going to ignore them and continue working on fitting this pattern by adding an FBA.  Maybe I’ll get smarter and figure out how to both use an FBA which adds length and circumference while removing circumference up there.

It’s my side view that tells the whole story, or at least 99% of it.

I quit drawing lines because I needed so many. The garment shoulder is not sitting evenly on my shoulder. Again we see the diagonals from the back and front. Correcting the front with an FBA will probably correct the shoulder as well (as seen on my draping attempt post.) In the side pic above, the front hem is clearly seen lifting upwards. This fabric has subtle horizontal lines. A careful look will reveal that those horizontals also slant upwards.

In a way, I wish I’d been more careful with my sewing. I assumed this would be a muslin. I knew I was not making any effort to correct the upper bodice length or sleeve twist. My whole point was to double-check on the effect of my new NSA method. The garment performs as expected. But the fabric looks so much better in the finished product. I should have been more careful about thread color selection (I used white) and anticipating the need for the upper torso length, made at least a 1/2″ FBA.

Well I like it and will wear it this Spring and Summer for sure:

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One thought on “A New Ebb

  1. When that pattern first came out I immediately made 2 of them. I did wear them but felt like I needed a FBA. I asked on line to Louise – she said there wasn’t a good way to do a FBA so I’ve not used the pattern since. However, that’s been a few years back. Just an FYI for you. I’m wondering if some of the back wrinkles are because you need another 1/2 to 5/8 to go ‘over’ your rounded back? I’m to the point that I have to remove an inch. When I made the JMStyle I did the 5/8 seam move that Louise recommends. That did work very well. However, by not putting in a back seam I couldn’t do the sway back adjustment. It’s not real noticable – the top looks great – good fit ……. put it on this am – – it’s just NOT my style! Normally I pass something on to DDIL but she would never wear this – so there it will hang for a while!
    Marcia

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