I transferred the small changes from my last version of the EAC to the pattern. I made a small 1/8″ tuck from shoulder to hem on both front and back. It doesn’t sound like much but 1/8″ removes 1/4″ from each piece. When I cut and sew, the change is made twice on the back and once on each front. A total of 4 *(1/8*2) or 1/2″ on the back and 1/2″ on the front; total 1″ ease removed from the garment. I also walked the side seams and learned that truing after making the dartless FBA added 1/4″ to the side seam. I made a 1/8″ horizontal tuck across the front about 2″ above the hem. Since the front hem hung drastically lower than the back, I also removed 3/4″ length at the center front and then retrued the hem. I felt like I could have removed all the length added by the FBA, but I prefer to make small changes. Check and see how that works and then make more changes if needed.
Truth is I was excited by Myrna’s sleeve wrinkle revelation and really wanted to work with that. I added 2″ to the cap on the sleeve pattern. Drastic, but I knew that 1/2″ had not made any perceptible difference. I wanted something that would really make a difference. I thought if that was too much, it wouldn’t be impossible to remove the excess cap during sewing.
My fabric is again a good shirting with about 1″ lycra, less than 10% stretch. I have numerous lovely blouse and shirting fabrics that I’m eager to use now that I know my slash-and-slide NSA and the dartless FBA will produce a smooth fitting shirt. I chose this fabric for its dominant yellow coloring and the fact that it is so much like the previous shirting. I’ve absolutely reached the conclusion that a different fabric can produce different and not necessarily desirable results. For example, I will never again use a soft knit fabric with my jeans pattern.
Well the 2″ sleeve cap was a bust. I moved it from 2 to 1.5 and 1″ high. Tried rotating backward and forward in the armscye and never, ever lost the sleeve wrinkle.
To my horror the drag lines from the bust returned
and the back developed issues as well
I wondered if the angle of the shoulder made any difference and I basted it together with a 1″ angle at the sleeve cap. Since that clearly made the back issues worse, I offset the front and back shoulders and repeated stitching at a steep angle.
Totally disgusted, I ripped the sleeves out; returned the sleeve pattern to its original dimensions and cut the sleeve cap down. I figured since the sleeve cap didn’t fix the sleeve wrinkle, I wouldn’t tolerate all the gathering needed to insert the higher capped sleeve. I also sewed the shoulder at it’s orginal length and angle. With no idea what went wrong, I finished.
It’s nearly impossible to detect any difference to this shirt from the ones made straight from the pattern without 2 hours of alterations, uncountable hours fitting and several fabrics sacraficed. Sheesh! I comforted myself with the idea that I could wear a vest and cover the worst ills
Yeech. Bah! Humbug!