I’ve got two new Louise Cutting patterns and was so excited to start. I must confess that CLD patterns are a love/hate affair for me. Either they work for me and you can’t pry them out of my dead hands; or they don’t work for me and I can’t get rid of them fast enough. Nonetheless I look forward to every new pattern and couldn’t wait to try 12134 Point of View.
I’m starting with Vew B which is pretty plain. I’m not a dramatic person. I’m a mix of classic, romantic and maybe a little casual. I’m unlikely to ever use View A. View B looked wonderfully elegant with just a touch of romanticism. I chose size based on my hip measurement and traced the pieces. I then applied my standard 1″ NSA and BWL adjustments. I’ve been working with an RBA and knit fabrics. I’m just not sure how that applies to woven, non-stretch drafts and elected not to make that adjustment.
My fabric is where my issues started. It was sold to me as shirting. I was disappointed when it arrived and as it was clearly a cheap lawn. I kept it because from time to time I need muslin fabric. Now, when I’m unsure of needed alterations, is the time. I hoped my standard alterations would be all that was needed and this pretty print would coordinate with the T made a few days ago becoming a good addition to my spring/summer clothing. (Often a blouse is the appropriate 3rd layer during these seasons.)
Cutting was fine. I pricked my finger with a pin and bled over several pieces. I fixed that with liberal applications of hydrogen peroxide. It was a delay and annoying but recoverable. I taped the yoke pieces around shoulders and neckline; formed the pleat carefully and stitched it in place. Ripped it out twice when the lips wouldn’t meet. I stitched the fronts in place added collar, facings and finished the neckline. Well I type finished but really most of it was basted together. I chose my button and attempted buttonholes. My Ruby has made wonderful buttonholes from day one. If I have issues, they are end user errors. To my horror, Ruby decided to suck down both the top and bobbin threads and wrap around her internals. Took me 10 minutes to get that unraveled. By now I was beginning to have a serious dislike to this blouse. I formed the hems. The instructions clearly say to use a 3/8″ seam across the miters. My back miters stuck up like they held tent poles. I rechecked instructions. As much as I could, I compared the pattern hems to the blouse (as in did I cut the hem correctly?) Eventually, I gave up and simply stitched the back miters at 5/8″; front at 3/8″ and using seam a steam, secured into place. I basted the side seams together. Put the blouse on. Buttoned it up. Looked in the mirror.
For the first time, I was favorably impressed. I took pictures. We’re going to skip to the end because I spent another 5 hours trying to adapt this to fit me. You’ll look at the pictures and think that’s not at all like the pattern illustrations. You’re right. I took out the back pleat because it never looked better than this:
I just didn’t know what to think. I measured the pattern; measured the blouse. I should have 8″ of ease across my butt. How could it possibly look like that? Across the shoulders there should be 2″. Doesn’t look that way to me. I made the back pleat into gathers, which improved the fit but caused my blouse to lose it’s streamlined smooth look. I futzed around adding a dart to the front which altered the armscye beyond use and so ripped it out. Along about then I realized that what I wanted was the EAC blouse with back pleat and shoulder yoke. Oh and I had thought that’s what this pattern would be. I pulled out the blouse pattern pieces to the EAC and compared with this blouse. There are so many subtle difference. Half inch here and there, uneven hems. Just so many different changes that it’s not the same. The most objectionable difference (for me) is how extended the shoulder line has become. A shoulder to which I can’t figure out how to attach my shoulder pads. I thought the shoulder would end just beyond the natural shoulder. Without sleeves, the blouse shoulders stick out 3″ beyond my shoulders (that’s after I reduced the shoulder line 1″ for my narrow shoulder adjustment.) I look like Ghanis Khan I asked myself if I wanted to wear this dropped sleeve blouse. The answer was no. I didn’t really want to finish it. Definitely didn’t want to make it again.
I finished it. I nearly eliminated the high-low back end (because it just emphasizes how much the CF rises).Top stitched hems because that was quick and easy. Took pics and am writing this post to remind myself why I don’t like this pattern. Please don’t let my negative experience sway you. Many people love every one of CLD patterns. I stated at the beginning I’m not always on that team. I completely agree that I need more alterations. I completely agree that the fabric itself was not the best choice for a wearable garment. Here’s my end result:
I even tried it as a 3rd layer:
What really kills this for me, is the shoulder width and my inability to add shoulder pads in the yoke. Shoulder pads are a gift a my age. A gift I’m glad to have and to use. I still want to work with fitting. But it won’t be with this pattern.